98 670 x HELP

[Zig Zag]

Had some trouble for the first time and need some help with two things. Hope this makes sense.

Loaded sled this am, ran fine. When we got to the hill it would not fire, no spark lots of fuel. Messed around ,changed plugs, pluged and unpluged wires. Ended up disconecting the stop switch and it fired right up. Hit the trail for the mountain, got half way there and it died. When I can get it to run it will not rev above 3 grand. Going to check the stop switch with a ohm meter in the am. Could the DPM be shot? if so it is 60 bucks and a set up at the dealer. Can i just get rid of the Dpm? Not like anyone will steel the thing.

Also looking for clutching help. I am on clicker 6 and the machine will not hold 8200, it falls on it's face fast dropping almost a thousand rpm on the smaller hills. The machine has a 144 track .19/44 gear(i think).
Should I try changing the springs to new factory as these one's are prolly well worn? or add or remove pin weight?

I like this machine and do not have the budget for a new one. Any help would be great.

Thanks

 

[ak]

Had some trouble for the first time and need some help with two things. Hope this makes sense.

Loaded sled this am, ran fine. When we got to the hill it would not fire, no spark lots of fuel. Messed around ,changed plugs, pluged and unpluged wires. Ended up disconecting the stop switch and it fired right up. Hit the trail for the mountain, got half way there and it died. When I can get it to run it will not rev above 3 grand. Going to check the stop switch with a ohm meter in the am. Could the DPM be shot? if so it is 60 bucks and a set up at the dealer. Can i just get rid of the Dpm? Not like anyone will steel the thing.

Also looking for clutching help. I am on clicker 6 and the machine will not hold 8200, it falls on it's face fast dropping almost a thousand rpm on the smaller hills. The machine has a 144 track .19/44 gear(i think).
Should I try changing the springs to new factory as these one's are prolly well worn? or add or remove pin weight?

I like this machine and do not have the budget for a new one. Any help would be great.

Thanks

The key your talking about is called DESS. The DPM compensates for altitude and temperature. The DESS can not be removed, As far as your electrical problem you may need a new key, also run solid top plugs that are gapped correctly, if your sled still has the hard rubber sparkplug caps replace them with the plastic style. For clutching check to see how much weight is in the pins first.

 

[DRD]

Change the plug caps and put new solid top plugs in before you do anything else.

 

[Zig Zag]

Still need help.
Plug caps have been changed all wires have been looked at and the DESS key was replaced and reprogramed this morning. It ran for about 15 feet and started right back to not reving above 3000. It would not fit in the dumpster. so. Anything else that i can look at? No one at the dealer near me know's the old sleds.

 

[DWHalverson]

The 98 Summits will run as you stated and programing on them is a bit different than even the 99 Summit. The DESS tether and CDI box need to be programed with matching codes as I'm sure you know. If they are not the symptoms you state will exsist. Any DESS tether will make the sled run up to 3000rpm, it's the matching programing that will make it rev more than that. The 98 programing has to be done at the CDI box, or it will not accept the progaming, if you try to program the CDI box through the DESS plug. The CDI box on the 99s were programable through the DESS plug.

As far as clutching. What has been done to the engine to make you want to turn that thing that high? 7900-8100rpm I think was the power band.

 

[Zachmandu]

I had issues with my loaner 98x, it was dropping rpm and almost dying. I thought that maybe the module was not reading the teather correctly. Not being anywhere close to a dealer, I took the drastic approach. I installed stock 670 (non-x) ignition parts. Stator, CDI, Coil, Pick-up coil, flywheel, and main engine harness. Super-simple swap, just R&R, and make sure timing is in spec. I removed every trace of the DPM, jetted down the carbs, and the sled runs awesome. I was lucky and just happened to have all the parts to convert it laying around, so it was a no-brainer for me to do the swap. I still have all of the 98x DPM stuff if interested. New stator, DPM module w/ teather, pick-up coil, wiring harness, DPM manifold, air-box temp sensor, flywheel... Throttle cable w/ tps and vacuum pump still on sled though.

Note: Sometimes you need to check the simple things. While doing this ignition swap, I discovered that my fuel pump pulse hose, and the vacuum pump hoses all had cracks in them, almost definately causing my running issues. I was too quick to blame the DPM. But, after converting it to a stock style ignition, I don't have to worry about DPM issues anymore.

 

[allrevvedup]

On my 98X it was the module "cdi box". It would run for a bit great then when it warmed up it would do pretty much the same you are talking about. I had to replace the box and all was fine.

 

[Van Zee]

I would replace the cdi box and make sure your key was coded correctly. Since you said no one at the dealer knows the old sled make sure they now how it needs to be programmed. I have very rarely saw those keys go bad. It does happen but alot of ppl always look at that when a reving issue comes into play and it usually turns into being something else so I would bet the CDI box. I dont know what it has for sensors on it so this might not be a possibility for that sled at all but I know we had an '08 600 that did the very similar thing this year and it happened to be a sensor on the crank that basically told it when to fire. But it popped and banged pretty badly when it would start IDk if yours is idleing smooth or not? I know that doesnt happen often either just throwing it out there
As far as the rpm not holding in a pull, your clutches probably need to be gone through and a new spring put in.

 

[Zig Zag]

Fixed it. Was able to spend some time pullin most of the wiring out of the sled, and found a wire pulled off a sensor on the bottom of the oil res. Plugged this back it and all is good. Had it out on sunday up at Brohm ridge and it ran great. Now to work on the clutchin,
Thanks for all the input.