95 Summit trouble

[ArcticDoo2]

I have a 1995 Summit 583 with the H.A.C and R.A.V.E on it. At the end of last winter, it started running really crappy. It would either try and sit there and idle at 3000 RPM or it would barely keep running. If you kept it above 2500-3000, it would run pretty good though. We pulled the recoil off and seen that the crank seal was torn from a piece of the recoil spring breaking off. We didn't ride it but maybe 5 miles after it started running bad. Does anyone think that anything else could be wrong with the engine itself, the H.A.C, the R.A.V.E, or should what I already did take care of it?
Thanks

 

[Teth-Air]

I have a 1995 Summit 583 with the H.A.C and R.A.V.E on it. At the end of last winter, it started running really crappy. It would either try and sit there and idle at 3000 RPM or it would barely keep running. If you kept it above 2500-3000, it would run pretty good though. We pulled the recoil off and seen that the crank seal was torn from a piece of the recoil spring breaking off. We didn't ride it but maybe 5 miles after it started running bad. Does anyone think that anything else could be wrong with the engine itself, the H.A.C, the R.A.V.E, or should what I already did take care of it?
Thanks

I had one just like it, (96) new end bearings, seals and pistons just to be sure and it is still ditch banging and the new owner loves it.
Also check you antifreeze, about this time you may start seeing oil in it from seal failure between the cooling and rotary valve lubrication.

Take a digital pic. when taking apart as I found conflicting drawings of where the spacers go on this shaft when putting back together. This shaft is driven perpidicular off the crank to drive the water pump, oil pump and rotary valve. Oh ya, take a pictur of the rotary valve position at TDC too before pulling apart as the timing marks aren't as obvious as they should be for a first timer.

The bearings have locking pin that stops them from having the out shell from spinning. These pins wear and break off. Replace them and use Loctite Green to lock the new bearings in place. I used pieces of a rivot shank as it had the same diameter. i'm sure if you get the bearings from the dealer, the locking pins will be included.

Might as well do it right and address all the wear points while you have it apart.

 

[ArcticDoo2]

Ok thanks, I figured I should probably do it all while it was apart but didn't know if it was necessary. I will look into that now.