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900 Torsion Springs

I am changing out my bent torsion springs. I weigh about 225lbs, and i currently are running part # ending 629 square, looking at changing to .407 or .405 what do you think? Also, how do you remove them, with out the shaft spinning? I search previous threads and could not find anything. Any help is appreciated!
 
I am changing out my bent torsion springs. I weigh about 225lbs, and i currently are running part # ending 629 square, looking at changing to .407 or .405 what do you think? Also, how do you remove them, with out the shaft spinning? I search previous threads and could not find anything. Any help is appreciated!
there's and alan head bolt in the big idler wheel on the outside ,you got to take that off to get the springs off.
 
I think your talking about the skid bolts, they are loc-tite'd in and are a bit of a pain. You should be able to remove just the 2 rear skid bolts and let the skid pivot down out of the tunnel to change torsion springs.

1-Tighten them both back up, and then completely remove 1 bolt while the other is still tight.
2-Use a wire wheel or something to clean the loc-tite off the threads
3-Re-install the clean bolt tightly, and repeat the process with the other side
Now you should be able to get both bolts out to change your springs

By the way, I weigh about 210, and love my .375 torsion springs.... definitely wouldn't want to go any stiffer. Consider installing the #225 front track shock spring at the same time.
 
The way I get the bolts out are to take 1 side almost all the way out.. then take 2 open end wrenches and place in front of the bolt that is almost all the way out.. then snug the bolt with the wrenches in front of it.. then go to the other side and take the other side bolt all the way out.. since the other side with the wrenches is snug and only has a few threads left, I loosen it, take the wrenches out and pull the bolt out.. Works like a charm on all the bolts in the suspension like that.. You dont have to use wrenches.. You can use anything that allows the bolt to be almost all the way out and then tightened up.. Hope this makes sense..:confused: Its alot easier to show than explain..:beer;
 
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how do you tell what springs you have in the sled?? also can you do the same to get the rear shock out...just take out the two rear bolts and swing it down
 
how do you tell what springs you have in the sled?? also can you do the same to get the rear shock out...just take out the two rear bolts and swing it down

Thank you all for your help! The bolts came right off with your advice. This forum is awesome! You can tell what springs by the 3 numbers stamped on the end of the long leg of the spring. Than cross reference to Ch. 11.6 & 11.7 in Deep Snow manual. This will than give you all of the spring information. Thanks again everyone
 
Here is the suggested springs posted previously in a similar discussion.

"I'm over 300 with all my gear, and have a few customers the same. we all run the .359 wire with 47 degree angle. adds considerably more pre-load, does away with the dead travel at the top of the stroke also. I ran mine on the softest setting with our valving in the stock shock, and also on the soft setting with z-broz clicker rear.

p/n's:7042079....7042080

with proper shock set up you shouldn't need the .405 stuff....let the shock do more work and you'll be happier in the end!

curt "
 
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