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800dragonwillrockyou
Member
Well im looking at buying a 900 rmk. what are the biggest things to be worried about when getting one and what are some of the problems they or you have had with them?
900 Problems?
- Thread starter 800dragonwillrockyou
- Start date
Number 1 thing. Send Primary Clutch to Indydan or another shop using state of the art balancing equipment and have it balanced.
Number 2 thing make sure secondary helix and spring have been changed to ones that work if not change them.
Number 3 check and replace motor mounts especially if sled has stock clutch helix.
number 4 VENTS VENTS VENTS
That is my list, others may disagree with the order and they are quite a few other things that can be improved but these are absolute musts. There are a couple sticky thread on the top of the 900 forum that discuss what is needed on 900's
go here first.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157066
If you are not mechanically competent considering another sled is probably a wise choice.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157066
If you are not mechanically competent considering another sled is probably a wise choice.
come on man READ....its only been covered 2,569,069 times before..
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112723
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112723
S
sks rider
Member
Explain number 2 to me... My clutching as far as i know is completly stock..
So was mine on the driven clutch and I had a nice talk with Indydan today explaining to me that this is the main problem on the 900's. The factory completely screwed up on the angles. When the helix tries to shift to the second angle the secondary is fighting to stay closed rather than up shift and this is in turn trying to pull the motor out of the front motor mounts and breaks the mounts. According to what he told me the 1115 was actually a bad thing because it is indestructible now when the secondary does not shift properly the 1115 does not give so it then tries to bend the crank. Anyway, he gave me a list of helix angles to try to find and I have to call him back in the morning for more info on this topic because Team has decided to discontinue the TSS-98 clutch and it is becoming more difficult to find the proper helix's.
There are numbers on your helix. You can read them if you look at the back of your driven clutch to see what you have. IF the second number is not 44, 46, or 48 you don't have the best helix.
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I spent some time thinking about this and I came up with another explanation that might be easier to understand as to what is going on with the driven clutches. Most of our driven clutches operate by the outside sheave rotating on the Helix as the belt is pulled down into it. The start angle gets the sled moving but the secondary angle is where we spend the majority of time riding. As the outside sheave has to turn it is creating friction on the belt. Because of the extremely shallow second angle on the 900's the sheave turns a considerable distance to up-shift and down-shift all the while grinding back and forth on the belt and creating heat.
A very simple way to visualize this is press your hands together as hard as you can and rub them back and forth as fast as you can. They will get very hot very fast.
Now think about the driven clutch on your snowmobile doing the same thing with the belt in the middle and a 260 lb spring pushing them together. With the shallow 38 degree angle this is creating so much heat that it is breaking down the glue that holds the belts together and causing them to fail.
Thought I would add something else to this. Because the 11115 belt is nearly indestructible it does not fail from this. What it does do is attempt to rip the engine out of the front motor mounts as the driven fights up-shifting either breaking your motor Mounts or breaking your crank!!! Due to the position of the jack shaft on the 05 the engine is exerting even greater force on the front mounts than the 06 with it's revised jack shaft and driven clutch positioning.
A very simple way to visualize this is press your hands together as hard as you can and rub them back and forth as fast as you can. They will get very hot very fast.
Now think about the driven clutch on your snowmobile doing the same thing with the belt in the middle and a 260 lb spring pushing them together. With the shallow 38 degree angle this is creating so much heat that it is breaking down the glue that holds the belts together and causing them to fail.
Thought I would add something else to this. Because the 11115 belt is nearly indestructible it does not fail from this. What it does do is attempt to rip the engine out of the front motor mounts as the driven fights up-shifting either breaking your motor Mounts or breaking your crank!!! Due to the position of the jack shaft on the 05 the engine is exerting even greater force on the front mounts than the 06 with it's revised jack shaft and driven clutch positioning.
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