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900 oil line bleeding help!

F

fitler

Active member
Ended up getting a whole in my oil line right behind the primary clutch. I don't have a puller to get the clutch off but was able to temp fix the line. was wondering if it would be possible to just run some premix fuel until the oil line primes it's self.

Also a bolt holds a metal bracket behind the primary fell out. I believe this bracket prevents the clutch form spinning backwards after i let go of the throttle. Can i run without this for one day. or is this a death sentence for my crank?

Please respond ASAP as i'm hoping to ride today.

Thanks
 
With the older sleds we used to change out the filter. In doing so we would hold the tank side line with a pair of pliers, chenge out the filter, then use the pliers as a valve to fill the pump side line and plug them together while they were full. If you have used some sort of joiner to repair the line you can use this method.

Hope that helps.
 
The bracket, I suspect, could be a Slp torque arm?? If so it won't likely hurt anything unless it's loose enough to contact the clutch.
 
Also a bolt holds a metal bracket behind the primary fell out. I believe this bracket prevents the clutch form spinning backwards after i let go of the throttle. Can i run without this for one day. or is this a death sentence for my crank?

Thanks


I am also wondering about this? I took mine off because it broke at the end of season last year. Haven't put any miles on the sled like this but I just thought it was just there to protect my coolant lines incase of a blown belt?

Anybody?

-Nolan
 
Mix oil in a tank until your sure the lines are bled. Carry extra plugs because you will foul them out. Don't know exactly what bracket you are talking about, was it a turnbuckle hooked to the motor and frame? If so it's a torque arm and you can ride without it for a day.
 
If you are thinking of the same bracket i am then its just a sheet of aluminum in about the 5 o'clock position (in reference to the primary) that covers the coolant line correct?
 
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If you are thinking of the same bracket i am then its just a sheet of aluminum in about the 5 o'clock position that covers the coolant line correct?

I think I am missing that as well, I have a little tab and a bolt that is sticking out and broke off.
 
Are there any bleeder screws you need to crack for bleeding the oil lines?

I guess I'm not entirley sure what the procedure here for actually bleeding these lines is ...
 
Are there any bleeder screws you need to crack for bleeding the oil lines?

I guess I'm not entirley sure what the procedure here for actually bleeding these lines is ...

if the line is after the pump you dont need to bleed it ..but put a 1/2 qt of oil in the gas for the first ride..another thing you can do if your worried is as soon as you start the motor grab the oil pump arm and hold it at the full throttle position this will feed full oil flow to refill the line....(while the motor is idling) you should be able to see the oil as it fills the line...
 
if the line is after the pump you dont need to bleed it ..but put a 1/2 qt of oil in the gas for the first ride..another thing you can do if your worried is as soon as you start the motor grab the oil pump arm and hold it at the full throttle position this will feed full oil flow to refill the line....(while the motor is idling) you should be able to see the oil as it fills the line...

How do I do that with the exhaust on the sled :confused:
 
i have a 700 and i cracked the bleed screw on the pump till oil came out, then by the primary clutch you can grab the oil cable with pliers or your hand if you take it off so your holding the little botton on the end. have someone start the sled and you pull on the oil cable. let it idle until oil comes out
premix for sure. i pulled the pto side bearing oil line to see when it was coming out. took about 45 sec at idle to see it coming out
 
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