700 running like crap?

[Premirrider]

Im riding a 700, bored with wisco's, ported, blue printed, and running 151 track, and stock clutching. The motor dosnt pull anymore from 3/4 to full throttle. After the rebuild the mechainic richened the hell out of the thing.

I was high marking a bowl with the guys, I rode a older 670 with a 136, and i shot a good 30 feet higher then my previous mark on my 700. After that pull I got on th 700 and fell short once again. I dont understand!!!. I need to some adivice on what I should do on clutching/ gearing and jetting.

 

[outlaw11j]

The 670ho with the 136 track was a great sled for its time. High compression motor. I think 148 hp. stock.
I do not know how much time on your rebuild. I always like to do several heat cycles for proper break in before I ride. The motor will run rich untill proper ring seat is achieved if rebuild is that fresh, depending on hone finish.
Did the mech. change anything else in the carbs like needle position?

I would start with fresh ngk plugs. BR8ev or es I think? Make a full pass and pull the clutch side plug. Look down in the plug where the side case meets the ceramic. It should have a very light gray shadow. If it is dark gray or black the jetting is to rich. The top of the porcalin should be a light tan or cardboard brown. If this is black or dark gray It would go back to my question on the needle setting. Improper needle setting or clip position can through the whole fuel curve off. But typically it is the midrange that is mostly effected here.
If in question. you can always go one step richer on the main jet and see if the problem is worse. That is a fool proof way of determining if the sled is rich without burning it down. Hope this can help.