I got a 151x16x2 for it and need to know how much to move the skid and which extensions to get, what to grind off ect. basically any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Thanks
670x new track measurements please
- Thread starter av8r
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I haven't done that mod but I came close (15"track though) a few years ago before I bought a new Cat 900.
As I recall, I was looking at rail extension from Tracks USA, Tunnel extension & bumper from Doo (from the highmark 700) and possibly smaller drivers and/or shave the track down to 1.75". At that juncture I was not 100% certain if I would need to change gearing or clutching on my 99x.
Keep us posted how it turns out. I still haven't ruled out making the mod even though it is my backup/family sled now. That Rotary Valve Rotax 670 engine is my favorite.
Edit- I believe you will need to move the heat transfer coolers rearward to prevent the track from hitting the rear crossover, but not 100% sure.
As I recall, I was looking at rail extension from Tracks USA, Tunnel extension & bumper from Doo (from the highmark 700) and possibly smaller drivers and/or shave the track down to 1.75". At that juncture I was not 100% certain if I would need to change gearing or clutching on my 99x.
Keep us posted how it turns out. I still haven't ruled out making the mod even though it is my backup/family sled now. That Rotary Valve Rotax 670 engine is my favorite.
Edit- I believe you will need to move the heat transfer coolers rearward to prevent the track from hitting the rear crossover, but not 100% sure.
Im working on pretty much the same sled 98 summitx,and putting a 159 x 15,not sure if you can use a 16 wide,i,m using a 151 skid and was going to set it back about an inch or so and then use the extentions,i'm running 8 tooth extroverts and gonna try using the stock gears first and see what happens,let me know if that track works,sounds interesting.
Yes, a 16 wide will fit, had a buddy with a 151x16 under his 98' 670 moddy. It was tight, some bolts up in the bulkhead had to be shaved down, you just need to get your track alignment right.
Shayle, you should look at just setting it back the full distace, get yourself some better attack angle, see if you can match an 03' zx. My ZX I setback 3" and a big wheel kit to go from a 144 to a 162, so it is not just take the difference in track length and divide by 2 like what most people will say. My ZX was an 01' and the difference between it and the old S2000 chassis was minimal until 02' ZX's.
Shayle, you should look at just setting it back the full distace, get yourself some better attack angle, see if you can match an 03' zx. My ZX I setback 3" and a big wheel kit to go from a 144 to a 162, so it is not just take the difference in track length and divide by 2 like what most people will say. My ZX was an 01' and the difference between it and the old S2000 chassis was minimal until 02' ZX's.
everyone says 3.5" back and 1" down. a 16" will fit but as others said, you need to grind down various bolts so they are half height. You may need to remove some rivets and then put them in from inside the tunnel and also get some drop down brackets for the rear of the suspension
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sledsrock
Well-known member
Try this.....
Here you go, 3.5 inches back and 1.0 inch down for the skid up front and about 2.0 down in the back - 4.0 inch rail extension. The 16 wide will work fine, take down a couple bolt heads for the chaincase side. The ribs for the rear brackets will need to be either ground down or replaced for the clearance. Some people remove the carrier wheels altogether, I noticed a bunch of track slap without them. I chucked mine up in a lathe and turned them down to where I needed them and relocated the shaft, adds tunnel strength keeping the cross shaft in there. Now I have a extended chaincase so that's why so much room, heck I could drop a 2.5 lug in there easy (it's on the list
). I set my drivers so there is not much track movement side to side. Some people add a washer between the skid and tunnel each side for a little extra clearance. You take time and for proper track adjustment and no worries. Night and day difference from a 15 wide. Good luck!
Oh, and I would'nt go too far back or you will lose some weight transfer. I ended up with a 15 degree approach angle with the extended chaincase.
Here you go, 3.5 inches back and 1.0 inch down for the skid up front and about 2.0 down in the back - 4.0 inch rail extension. The 16 wide will work fine, take down a couple bolt heads for the chaincase side. The ribs for the rear brackets will need to be either ground down or replaced for the clearance. Some people remove the carrier wheels altogether, I noticed a bunch of track slap without them. I chucked mine up in a lathe and turned them down to where I needed them and relocated the shaft, adds tunnel strength keeping the cross shaft in there. Now I have a extended chaincase so that's why so much room, heck I could drop a 2.5 lug in there easy (it's on the list
). I set my drivers so there is not much track movement side to side. Some people add a washer between the skid and tunnel each side for a little extra clearance. You take time and for proper track adjustment and no worries. Night and day difference from a 15 wide. Good luck!Oh, and I would'nt go too far back or you will lose some weight transfer. I ended up with a 15 degree approach angle with the extended chaincase.
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Thanks to all but especially summit 670 thats exactly the kind of info I needed.
Beats searching the old forum.
Beats searching the old forum.
What gear combination will work best with the 8t extroverts?
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sledsrock
Well-known member
Side pic
Here you go.............oh, it's not a 98/99X it's a old 94 "F" chassis 670 Summit.
Here you go.............oh, it's not a 98/99X it's a old 94 "F" chassis 670 Summit.
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sledsrock
Well-known member
Gearing??
I run a 19/44 but that's with a 151 and 9 tooth. Not much help to you on that one.
I run a 19/44 but that's with a 151 and 9 tooth. Not much help to you on that one.
I don't know why but that is the coolest sled everytime I see it! Must just be because it's an old F-series mod!?
It would have been cool to have that exact sled in '94,you would have rocked the sledding world!!! I think i'll run my stock gears and see what happen's,thanks for the advice. I'll post some pics when i get it completed this week some time.
I'm pretty sure they didn't have a 151 track back then, actually, I'm pretty sure they hadn't had the 144 out yet, let alone a 2 inch paddle!
Wow, what sad times we were in back then.
Wow, what sad times we were in back then.
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sledsrock
Well-known member
Thanks!
Motley, thanks for the compliment. This is my only sled and can not afford the new iron, with raising my family of 5 on my single income. I love sledding, my two boys take after momma and not like the cold, my daughter however is takin after her papa - she's my ridin' buddy! I do all my own mods mainly because I can and I'm picky! If it's on my sled and it's not stock I probably built it.
I don't know why but that is the coolest sled everytime I see it! Must just be because it's an old F-series mod!?
Motley, thanks for the compliment. This is my only sled and can not afford the new iron, with raising my family of 5 on my single income. I love sledding, my two boys take after momma and not like the cold, my daughter however is takin after her papa - she's my ridin' buddy! I do all my own mods mainly because I can and I'm picky! If it's on my sled and it's not stock I probably built it.
Summit 670 did you reinforce the tunnel when you did the set-back?
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sledsrock
Well-known member
Tunnel reinforcement
Yeah, I did. I wish I would have made the plates a little smaller though. I am pointing to the original mount hole.
Yeah, I did. I wish I would have made the plates a little smaller though. I am pointing to the original mount hole.
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Right on thanks for taking the time.
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OK some guys hit the points..heres my list of doo's...
Drop n Roll chain case or run 8 tooth antis...
gearing is dependant on elevation/driver size (call with info)...
clutching (call for solid combo)...
trim edge of track with sharp utility knife...
inside tunnel- remove ALL steel brackets and front snow deflector, grind down chain case bolt nearest track, move steering hoop bolts from outside in to inside out, use aftermarket drop down bracket in back for clearance and use aluminum running board reinforcement (from 440 sled) to strengthen running boards and for traction..
use 7.5" rail extensions OR move skid back 3.5" and down 1" in front (use a aluminum plate on outside and inner steel plate for support on tunnel) then place rear drop down brackets as needed (I have some)..remove factory carrier wheel assembly...$25 black plastic 8" wheels work nice too..
use tunnel extension, end cap, bumper from a 2000 700 High Mark 151 for clean factory looking tunnel...
remove every other track clip and drill 2 1" holes in center belt to lighten track and evac snow...
DONE MANY like this...call if you need help...BJ
Awesome! I love to hear those kinds of statements! Kudos to you man. Ride what you can and enjoy it!! I build all my own stuff too, mainly due to quality but also sometimes I just justify spending $100 on something that only cost $15 to make.
Motley Doo, yes they did have "long tracks" back then, they just weren't on the market yet. I knew two people that were building "long" tracks for for sleds long before the manufacturers were - where do you think they got the idea? From western riders with long paddle tracks! I knew one guy in Trail BC that built a long track for his Elan in the early 80's - this wasn't a horsepower game back then, it was merely a matter of floatation. He bolted two elan tracks together end to end and added almost double the bogies and lengthened the rails to match. Also, there was another guy in Rossland BC that was building his own tracks from conveyor belt in the early 90's and mounting up plastic paddles on them. It was funny to go see him, his garage was filled with 8-10 tracks at a time, hanging from the rafters, with different paddle configurations he was trying.
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