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670 Summit X Track and Driver mod

I have a 670 Summit X With a worn out 151 track..... I want to go to a 2" track. I ve decided to go with 8 tooth drivers rather than drop and roll... I notice a few posts talking about 3.0 anti ratchets and 153 cat tracks or 155 polaris with 2.86... I havent noticed anyone commenting on the pros and cons of this set up.... Was the suspension moved back as well, How much if at all... And most of all did you like the end results... Im in the prosses of trying to put something together, so any feed back would be nice... Or if you happen to have any of the parts I might need, just shoot me a PM thanks
 
I have converted my 97` Summit to a Arctic Cat M series 153x15x2.25 Challenger track, I bought the Wahl Bros 7 tooth 3.0pitch antirachet drivers (1 1/4 shaft size). my sled had a 136 suspension with rail extensions to 151 track and I had to move the skid back one more additional inch to take up the slack difference from the 151 it had on it to the 153 I put on it. Of course to make this fit the sled has to have a Drop and Rolled chaincase which mine already did when I bought the sled from my buddy.

I really like how the sled performs and the track works, the extrovert drivers are a bit noise but I don`t really mind it. I have heard the Avid drivers are possibly better and less noisy.

I did this cause the 3.0 pitch 153 and 162 track seem pretty easy to find and plentyfull, the drivers seem spendy while you do this coversion but I think are worth it.

If you decide to do this, look for a track that came off a sled that didn`t have reverse, the reverse tracks have pretty small lugs on the very outer part of the track where most track have all the same size, you have to atleast cut everyother one off so the drivers don`t walk over them, it works but a non reverse track would probably be better but they both work.

Good Luck, Wilcard28
 
I ride a 98 670 X and run wahl bros 8 tooth combo drivers to run a polaris series IV 159 2.125" track. Besides 8 tooth drivers I did have to lower my idlers wheels on the tunnel. Its super easy the bracing in the tunnel already has a lower hole you just have to drill a hole in the tunnel. No more excessive noise than i would expect. Its amazing how loose you can run the track with extroverts.
 
I ride a 98 670 X and run wahl bros 8 tooth combo drivers to run a polaris series IV 159 2.125" track. Besides 8 tooth drivers I did have to lower my idlers wheels on the tunnel. Its super easy the bracing in the tunnel already has a lower hole you just have to drill a hole in the tunnel. No more excessive noise than i would expect. Its amazing how loose you can run the track with extroverts.


How much sag do yo set your track at with the extroverts??
 
Remember to much sag is bad too! I ran my 151 with 9 tooth Wahl combo's about 3 fingers and it worked great even with wet shot of nitrous.
 
I run about 2.5 inches of sag, its a really long track. I would measure it exactly but its on my buddy's trailer at this time. No D&R required. Haven't gotten to loose to slap the tunnel yet, but I'll keep an eye on that. I really liked the way things turned out. I have stock gears in the chaincase and going from 8 to 9 tooth drivers was perfect.
 
Im not even sure what im running, i believe there 8 tooth, but we bought the sled with some work already done to it sooo.

Well, you either have 8 tooths or a D/R with 9 tooths. IF you have 8 tooths and they are not the combo (extro's) drivers - there's your ratcheting problem.
 
summit 15" conversion to 16" wide track

removing 15"x136 track and skid and going to a 16" x 144 skid and 2" paddle track... heard its easy to do but never done it... I know I need to roll the chain case and go to extroverted drivers... any suggestions????
 
One of the best mods for that chassis... Drop and roll skid set back and 16 wide track.
I have a 151 16 wide track 9 tooth extros and it works well for a old chassis with wore out parts:face-icon-small-ton
 
Where is the most inexpensive place to buy a Drop and Roll kit??? I started putting my 97 summit I was parting out back to gether again got most of it together other than suspension and engine.

Thanks, Wildcard
 
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