600 Liberty

[burty]

Hey guys

First post, Just snow checked a 2014 600 PRO RMK! Cant wait for next year! I know... should have got an 800... But i think the 600 will suit me just fine. I'm just looking for a some information on getting the most power out of this engine with minor mods and tweaking, nothing to extensive "yet". any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[snopromod]

Power Addiction Racing head, 13.6:1 if you ride high elevation, Blue/Pink SLP primary spring, and 800 power valve springs! This will get you set up perfect for tree riding and steep side hills... Also look into Carls custom cut helix and secondary combo

 

[ak]

Things that work great on the 600 pro are

Power addiction head (for your altitude)
Carls clutch kit
Vforce reeds (They help with the throttle response longevity is not proven yet I
only have 150 miles on them.)

Slp extra airhorn in the lower airbox.

Slp extra intake in the hood and remove the air horns in the hood.

Hps can.

These mods all work great on the 600 pro.

 

[burty]

Thanks for the info guys! how about the SLP stage kits? Any experience with these? worth the money?

 

[rcbc]

whats the differance in price to just get an 800 vs getting all the add ons
for the 600. Then how much power would the two have.

 

[ak]

Thanks for the info guys! how about the SLP stage kits? Any experience with these? worth the money?

I've spoke to two people about the slp pipe, and they both said it was not worth the money.

 

[mountainhorse]

Ride it stock IMO... They are great machines...

The mods to do IMO... Make sure that the Handlebars fit you just right (shorter/taller or diff bend).... put a wrap on the tunnel sides to keep snow buildup down. Invest in a good grease gun (pistol grip or cordless) with excellent grease and use it. Clutch for your altitude. If you are outside of the 170lb - 210lb weight range, get the shocks revalved just for you.

Pull the running boards, sandblast them and paint them with POR-15... re-install. You can put it on with a brush and it will flow out to look sprayed.

A sled that "fits" you well and sheds snow is the best performance gain you will get for the buck.

Since you have the QuickDrive... no real way to change gearing inexpensively...

Clutching for your altitude, adding delrin washers on the secondary and making sure that the and clutches are kept clean and adjusted regularly... Balance and set belt side clearance on primary to spec (not something that most can do at home). Are good moves in the right direction.

I think you will find that it is not lacking in power... but agree, if you want more power... spend the $1000 and get the 800. Most dealers will allow you to change your mind during the SnowCheck time.
OR
Spend the same on a Standard 800 RMK and go with an upgraded set of shocks. You will have better cooling, stronger A-arms and some other things too... downside is just a bit more weight, and that is only 19 lbs... which is 10-11 lbs if you remove the bogies like on the PRO's. The extra cooler sheds its own weight in ice/snow buildup.

That being said... for lighter riders, IMO, a 660 PRO is one heck of a maneuverable machine. But you are looking at $1000's.


My 2 cents.

 

[scha0786]

things besides power that i've done to my 600

SLP nose cone block off (prevent the 30lb ice block in nose area)
WRP vent kit (love it for the price)
WRP gauge lifter (love it)
Footwell screen blockoffs (prevent snow getting sucked into clutches)
tether switch (get the pro-design one, have not had good luck with polaris OEM)

If you are a short guy 6'-0" and under. look at getting the Burandt bars as they are shorter and narrower. Gives you more leverage on the machine. I'm only 5'-10" and the stock pro-tapers seem a bit too tall and wide for me.

my summer mods are going to be carl's clutch kit and HPS can.

Then down the road I will do carl's 660 big bore kit

 

[mountainhorse]

All at once?

Things that work great on the 600 pro are

Power addiction head (for your altitude)
Carls clutch kit
Vforce reeds (They help with the throttle response longevity is not proven yet I only have 150 miles on them.)
Slp extra airhorn in the lower airbox.
Slp extra intake in the hood and remove the air horns in the hood.
Hps can.
These mods all work great on the 600 pro.

AK, Did you install all of these mods at the same time or do it in "stages"

 

[Flying Dutchman]

I checked a '13 last year and have no regrets. Very happy with the overall performance and handling. These Pro's really do rock and my riding has gone to a different level..
I too heard all the 800 comments but after a season of riding, those comments have all been silenced. On past machines, i was always adding little mods like the ones listed above, but on this sled, I have left everything stock. Don't plan on any changes until parts start to wear or if the performance was really lacking. When the time comes, it's nice to see that there are a few minor mods a guy can do.
Just for trivia, I have around 760 miles. Have added a skid plate, Poo tether, and some storage bags. Adjusted the oiler and throttle cable. So far so good, and hope it keeps going like this.
Good choice on your pic, you will love it.

 

[ak]

AK, Did you install all of these mods at the same time or do it in "stages"

Stages with no fuel controller.

 

[burty]

some good information there guys! as for me I'm not a very big guy 150 and 5'7". I was thinking that the 2" lower pro taper bars might be a good choice for my stature. Also at my weight I'm sure the machine will barely notice me on it.

 

[mountainhorse]

Did you do the head at the same time as the reeds?

 

[mountainhorse]

Im in the same boat as you for height and weight... you may want to consider a simple re-valve (especially if Carls can do the "bleed shim" pistons in that setup.

You may want to really look at an even lower bar... I really like a 3" total rise on the PRO and found the Burandt bars to be a hair too tall.



.

 

[burty]

what bar do you suggest?

 

[ak]

Did you do the head at the same time as the reeds?

Head first 13/1 compression then the reeds.

When I did the reeds I add the slp airhorn and intake.

 

[ak]

Im in the same boat as you for height and weight... you may want to consider a simple re-valve (especially if Carls can do the "bleed shim" pistons in that setup.

You may want to really look at an even lower bar... I really like a 3" total rise on the PRO and found the Burandt bars to be a hair too tall.



.

Same here I tried the burandt bars but did not like them. I preferred the stock pro tapers. But I would like to try the Dan Adams fly handlebars because there slightly taller than the burandt bars.

 

[mountainhorse]

what bar do you suggest?

Bars are a very personal thing.

That being said, here are my favs.

I really like the Backcountry bend from RSI... I like the carbon fiber wrap one because it holds the heat in the grips the best. (my current setup)

The Skinz Protective gear grab strap if you like a grab strap...If you dont run the grab strap... I highly recommend using a bar pad on the center.

You can re-use the stock bar end hooks and these will go pretty narrow with the PRO RMK controls.

The tacky grips excell at keeping you connected to your sled... buy a few pairs... good grips are a "consumable" item.

You will need to use the RSI Oversized bar clamps.

OR.. The Skinz Protective Gear (SPG) bars

You can use them with the stock clamp and use the stock mountain strap on them. (4" shown.. 2" is what I've used.

 

[T G]

ak what temps you run with the par head.

 

[ak]

ak what temps you run with the par head.

124 to 131 in the snow no scratchers.