Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

6.0 vs 7.3 powerstroke

M

maddog21

Well-known member
whats the difference between 6.0 and 7.3 (both powerstroke diesel). which one is better? mpg? I will be only pulling like at least 7000 lbs.
 
7.3 = less power and will last forever.
6.0 = better power but needs work to be reliable. 03-05 not that great, the 06 and 07's are MUCH better.

but if your comparing the two im guessing, right around the transition years, in which case one of the "newest" 7.3's would be my choice everyday. and thats why i own one.

very similar milage when you load em down.
 
If you go 6.0, then look for an 06 or 07 only... they had fewer issues than the earlier units and are generally considered the best years for that motor. They are quieter and peppier than the 7.3, but the 7.3 does have a very good overall reputation that the 6.0 reputation can't compete with.

Early 6.0s had problems with the EGR system, turbo, head-studs and oil cooler if I remember correctly.

7.3s had a few injector issues, but I think that was about it.

The Torqueshift tranny on the 6.0 is sweet, the 4R100 behind the 7.3 is adequate under normal conditions.

If you want to do some serious reading, check out this site.... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

:beer;
 
true, if your going with an auto.. the ones in the 7.3's arent very impressive. the one's in the 6.0's are WAY better.

but then again, thats the 7.3 with the 6spd combo for me.. want reliable? winner. no wild hotrod powerhouse. but it starts and drives all day everyday.
 
6.0s had stretch to yield head bolts that were not very durable. Early 6.0s had very insufficient oil coolers and egr coolers that lead to flash boiling coolant and would cause too much pressure and blow headgaskets. the 6.0 was designed and used in germany with hardly any issues due to two reasons. no egr system was used and they also were not running ultra low sulfer diesel. no egr system lead to far less issues with headgaskets and not having to use ultra low sulfer diesel fuel lead no far less issues with turbo vein issues. the 6.0 has much more technology than the 7.3 and CAN be MADE into a very reliable powerplant that will dominate a 7.3 BUT the 7.3 out of the box is much more reliable. as stated earlier, if you are going to go 6.0, look for the 05 and up. They redigned the egr system a little and the oil cooler system as well as made changes to the turbo which made the engine work much better. The other advantage is that in 2005 they made a chassis change that looks, handles and rides much better. They switched to coil overs instead of leafs, gave the front end a face lift and switched up the interior. the 4r100 trans behind the 7.3 has a bad rep but if properly maint. it can do the job. the 5r110 is much better though. So basically, plan on spending 4000 to make the 7.3's auto bulletproof or plan on spending 5000 to bulletproof the motor on a 6.0. I had a 03 7.3 which i loved but if i do it again, i will get an 06 or 07 6.0. I would rather invest money into the motor on a newer truck and a newer technology engine rather than dump money into an old workhorse. Just depends on what YOU want though.
 
I will be driving most highway miles without tow. I tow maybe 5 times a year. I am looking for a better mpg, I only own a truck.. Silverado.
 
I will be driving most highway miles without tow. I tow maybe 5 times a year. I am looking for a better mpg, I only own a truck.. Silverado.

If you do not want to feel like you are driving a tank compared to your silverado, i would try to get an 05 or newer. They ride MUCH better compared to the 04 and older. Also, if you arent towing much, why jump to a diesel? the cost to own one of these trucks compared to a gas if you arent towing much is much more.
 
If you do not want to feel like you are driving a tank compared to your silverado, i would try to get an 05 or newer. They ride MUCH better compared to the 04 and older. Also, if you arent towing much, why jump to a diesel? the cost to own one of these trucks compared to a gas if you arent towing much is much more.

yeah I thought that one, I live on farm so.. Thats why I am thinking about duramax or newer silverado. My truck is 2004 with 134,xxx miles in it and starting to grow some rust under so I want to get rid of it before rust grow big and price will be lower.

If I was pulling a 4 place enclosed (abt 24 ft at least) with 4 snowmobiles and gears in it. That will be about 6500 lbs total towing with 5.3 liter engine?
My current truck is rating at 7500 lbs towing.

I thought diesel would go last longer so I dont want to get a different truck till whenever.. prody more than 5 years. I have that silverado for 3 years now.
 
dont waste your time on any 7.3 or 6.0 if you live in a cold climate pos's dont like to start without being plugged in anything below 20deg out some synthetic oil will help, put a cummins in it and it will start -30 without being plugged in just saying lol. only ford i would buy would be the 6.4 impressive truck with the right tuneing and they start good just dont last like any ford diesel
 
440, dont lie to people, i start my 7.3 unplugged at -20 all the time in the winter. no issues at all... very simple ****, with the right setup in them, i bet mine starts better at -20 then most diesels do at 32.
 
Ditto what everyone else said!

I had a 2002 7.3L 6 speed standard and I put 230,000 trouble free KM on it.

I went to an 2005 6.0L and I am not exaggerating when I say there was over $50G worth of repairs on it while I owned it. All warranty of course....

Ford told me if they had their time back they would have bought it back from me. Heads, head gasket 3 times, EGR cooler 3 times, EGR valve multiple times, Fuel Injection Control Module twice, all 8 injectors, turbo twice. When the warranty was up at 150K I traded it in on a Duramax and will never look back! The Duramax/ Allision combo can't be beat for power and reliability.
 
6.0

I have an '05 and it runs amazing. It starts great in cold weather anything down to -30* has not given me any troubles. The only thing I have done to it is ARP head studs, EGR delete, some custom tunes and other bolt on mods.
It is a powerhouse. I would not ever talk down on a cummins though, they are a great motor. To bad they can't put them in a real pickup though.
The 6.0 has it's problems as everything has; you just have to fix them. If you are going to buy one you need to get it for about 5K less than book so you can spend that on fixing the issues.
 
Had an '05 6.0, had head bolts stretch, egr leak, turbo replaced, injector control module replaced, down pipe crack(makes you interior smell real nice just like your tailpipe), I think that was all I replaced in 2 years of owning the truck. Traded it off and went back to a duramax, ford can keep their trucks. On a side note my 6.0 was terrible cold weather starting compared to my chevy.
 
440, dont lie to people, i start my 7.3 unplugged at -20 all the time in the winter. no issues at all... very simple ****, with the right setup in them, i bet mine starts better at -20 then most diesels do at 32.

starts beter then most compareing to what a 6.9 or 6.5chev or another 7.3?



We have had fords theres a reason they left a bad taste in my mouth trucks are stout but the diiesel it comes with is lacking alot

True work trucks with alot of miles 7.3 wont start they need compression even a duramax that truely gets worked dont last much longer than 200k they do but sound like a ol wore out 7.3.
come check out our tow trucks my dads 1990 has over 1.3million bought i brandnew still starts -20 come check out our 04 that has 400k our 05 have 480k only major prob is injectors that the issue with any commonrail., we tried the whole ford thing didnt work out for a work truck and i mean a true work truck probley because they were wore out at 100k ill put it this way our lightest truck is 12,000 thats empty and tows up to 30k and its loaded atleast one way or its not makeing money we bout a brandnew 02 7.3 rollback what a pos had to be plugged in constantly not only that it was woreout at 100k.

I have no problem giveing credit where its due but the 7.3 is not credit worthy well i guess other then its the longest lasting engine you can get in a ford under the right situations. The 6.4 is by far the most impressive diesel to date in a light duty truck 12.80s in a standardcab 4x4 with a canned tune but worked 6.4s cant compare to the 7.3 for longgevity.

so yes i tell any and everyone to stay away from ford and cat 3116 and thats another story:face-icon-small-sad


Buy the truck put a cummins in it then you would have something a 6.7 with he451 turbo off an isx 90hp injectors nv5600 or built allison then you would have a badass towing machine 500-600hp and 1500-1800ftlbs should do the trick:faint:
 
considering he might tow 7k a handfull of times a year, i wouldnt worry to much about it getting "worked" tow trucks vs something that could be done with a half ton is a different story.

also, my truck would barely start below 0 unplugged when i got it.. simple things.. simple things. but yes, commonrails will obviously start better in the cold, just the nature of the beast, heui isnt the greatest thing i have seen by far, but it works consistantly
 
We spend more time working on 6.0's than 7.3's, 6.4's, & 6.7's combined, by far.
 
  • Like
Reactions: K3
Premium Features



Back
Top