3" Track Ratchets Excessively

[die hard poo]

So I have a 3"-155 Series 7 on my AXYS and I can't seem to get the track to quit ratcheting. I have adjusted the track until is so tight that I notice a performance difference. While it has helped with ratcheting, it still seems to do it when I hit a bomb hole or creek bank hard.

My question is, do the AVID center extrovert drivers work better than the stock ones? I really don't want to use the extrovert drivers where you have to cut the rails and install an antistab kit if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance

 

[mountainhorse]

Run the factory prescribed tension on the track... you wont have the problem.

It seems tight..but will actually perform better.

Loose tracks = less performance.

I use a Wallmart 10 lb dumbbell or kettlebell.

Measure 1/2" between track and rail.

Single ply tracks (since 2008) will require re-tensioning often till they take a set... say every ride or two for the first 10-12 rides.

Track tension is critical for maintaining correct suspension
operation. If the track tension is too loose it may cause the track
to slip or “ratchet” on the drive shaft drivers and cause the track
and rear suspension durability problems. If the track is too tight
it will wear down the rail slides, reduce top speeds, cause rear
suspension vibration and cause track and rear suspension
durability problems.
1. Lift the rear of the machine and place a jack stand or secure
the rear of the machine so that the track is off of the
ground.
2. Start the engine and slowly let the engine turn the track
over. This will warm up the track for a correct
measurement.
3. Shut off the engine.
4. Place a 10 lb. (4.54kg) weight at point (A). Point (A) is 16”
(41cm) ahead of the rear idler shaft (E).
5. Measure the distance (D) between the rail slider and the
track. This measurement should fall with in the
measurement range for the appropriate vehicle.
6. If adjustment is needed, loosen up the lock nuts (B) on each
side.
7. Loosen up the idler shaft bolts (F).
8. Turn each adjuster bolt (C) toward the idler wheel
(clockwise) if you need less of a measurement. Turn the
adjuster bolt (C) toward the front of the sled
(counterclockwise) if you need a greater measurement.
9. When you achieve the correct tension listed below, torque
the lock nuts (B) and idler shaft bolts on each side to 35 ftlb
(48 N-m).
NOTE: Track alignment affects track tension.
Misalignment will cause excessive wear to the track
and slide rails. Excessive slide wear will appear on
units with the track tension set too tight (or below
measurement specification).

.

 

[kmo]

I haven't seen this in mine at all.

 

[die hard poo]

Run the factory prescribed tension on the track... you wont have the problem.

It seems tight..but will actually perform better.

Loose tracks = less performance.

I use a Wallmart 10 lb dumbbell or kettlebell.

Measure 1/2" between track and rail.

Single ply tracks (since 2008) will require re-tensioning often till they take a set... say every ride or two for the first 10-12 rides.

.

I already have it tight (actually had to go tighter than spec) and it still ratchets. While I agree too loose of a track will cause performance issues, so will too tight of a track. I definitely can feel my sled having drag on the drive shaft with it being too tight. But right now its keeping it from ratcheting on any little impact.

Looking to see if anyone has experience with the avid center driver for improvement on reducing ratcheting or should I just go with extroverts and cut the rails.

 

[diamonddave]

If you can't get it warrantied, then go with the extroverts and don't use any bodies anti stab kit unless it is a ice age period. The center driver isn't going to help you with this issue.

Trimming the rails is nothing.

 

[icr]

Have you pulled your skid and verified nothing is bent.

 

[sledheadd]

I see no one else has mentioned this but could it be your drivers that are ratcheting on the shaft instead of track ratcheting on the drives?

 

[tdorval]

If the skid is straight and there are no other issues... Is it possible it was run too loose at first, ratcheted a bunch, and now there is some damage to the surfaces the driver's contact? They don't rachet at the speced settings unless there are other issues typically.

 

[die hard poo]

Thanks for the input so far, to answer the questions so far:
-After a thorough look at my rear suspension, I noticed the rails are slightly bent on the front torque arm rise. This maybe causing some issues maintaining correct tension as the suspension travels.
-It does not look like the the stock drivers have any signs of ratcheting on the shaft.
-The track started ratcheting now that I think of it after the large impact I had at the beginning of the season and I haven't been able to rectify the ratchet since. I now suspect the slight bend in the rail maybe contributing to this problem. Looks like I will be ordering iceage rails first!

Thanks guys for helping me and I will keep you posted to let you know if the slightly bent rails resolves the ratchet issue.

 

[doudea]

I know it seems silly but could it be a chain ratchet. Chain tension too loose, or what I experienced that it never had oil in the chain case from the factory, and dealer didn't check the oil on the PDI.

 

[die hard poo]

I know it seems silly but could it be a chain ratchet. Chain tension too loose, or what I experienced that it never had oil in the chain case from the factory, and dealer didn't check the oil on the PDI.

Chain is properly tensioned and has oil. Definitely something I am very meticulous on checking frequently.

 

[jbunce]

Sounds like it is your rails hitting your drivers, why don't you compress your front suspension as if you were hitting a creek recreate the scenario in your shop quick way to know what is going on than just buying parts hoping it will go away.

 

[Killer Time Racing]

Rode Cooke all week with Two 3" Pros ..
Mine 156 X 3 normal drive lugs with avid Extros no center driver

Flecks 162 X 3 Cat small nub lugs and avid Center driver

Mine is looser than 1 1/2" sag with no weight ... ZERO RATCHET

Flecks tightened up to 1/2" sag still ratcheting ..

I think it is the compaction of snow on that wide almost one piece driver getting packed with snow .. And then little kitty lugs don't help either .. Way happy with mine ... He should be chiming in about his