Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

3" on a std rmk

jakey-boy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Has anyone put a 3" on a standard rmk? What all is involved? With 7t drivers is there plenty of clearance on the coolers? Chaincase need ground down? Appreciate any help I'm away from a computer and unable to search through the massive amounts of info on the 3".

Would the camo 2.5 3 pitch be easier?
 
Has anyone put a 3" on a standard rmk? What all is involved? With 7t drivers is there plenty of clearance on the coolers? Chaincase need ground down? Appreciate any help I'm away from a computer and unable to search through the massive amounts of info on the 3".

Would the camo 2.5 3 pitch be easier?


yes, chain case mod and drivers or a avid drop and roll.

i know a guy with one on a 2012 with the avid drop. i think hes still running 8t drivers.

the chain case mod is more than grinding, its cheaper than the avid way but they cut a chunk out and weld in a new piece of aluminum...
 
Can someone remind me why the chaincase mod is required? I'm thinking the smaller drivers allow the track to rub? If that's the case it would also be required with the camo 2.5 in a 3 pitch? Or can you clear a 2.5 with 8t drivers and the coolers?

Starting to look like stock is the only track you can run easily on this dang thing.
 
Smaller drivers are going to cause the track to rub on that corner of the chain case, I rode my 13 with a turbo and the 3" and it was awesome. took the turbo off to put on my 14. A stock Pro felt like a total dog with the 3", I will be putting a turbo back on.
 
I have a 12 with a avid case and a 163 3 inch and I love it. I know there is lots of people using the small drivers, but the long case and big drivers get on top of the snow so much better. My next one will be exactly the same.
 
Can someone remind me why the chaincase mod is required? I'm thinking the smaller drivers allow the track to rub? If that's the case it would also be required with the camo 2.5 in a 3 pitch? Or can you clear a 2.5 with 8t drivers and the coolers?

Starting to look like stock is the only track you can run easily on this dang thing.

It is a option to run the 2.5 camoplast extreme in a 2.86 pitch. This would provide the most budget minded track change. You'll give a little in performance, how much, i wouldn't know. But you're into a new track for far less $$$.
 
Mtntk is now offering a drop and roll belt drive/gear down conversion, I looked into doing that on my std. That would eliminate the need for a chain case mod, but you would then have to upgrade to a pro jackshaft. D&R belt drive is a $1400 snow check option from them, free anti stab and free shipping through the end of sept I believe. Wouldn't be a BAD option as you get to convert to belt drive and can choose your gearing.

I have a pro jackshaft for sale if you need one btw :face-icon-small-win
 
I thought the chain case mod was only needed on the 3" track with the 3" pitch drivers. Pretty sure the 2.5" track fits with chaincase and 3" pitch drivers or am I wrong on that? Guess I will find out in 2 weeks... :face-icon-small-con
 
I thought the chain case mod was only needed on the 3" track with the 3" pitch drivers. Pretty sure the 2.5" track fits with chaincase and 3" pitch drivers or am I wrong on that? Guess I will find out in 2 weeks... :face-icon-small-con



The chaincase mod is necessary for 7 tooth drivers regardless if they are 2.86 or 3.0 drivers. It's the smaller diameter of the drivers that causes the interference with the chaincase housing not the 3" track.

It's very tight but you could run a 2.5" track and stay with 8 tooth 2.86 drivers and not have to do the chaincase mod.

Some guys feel this tight of clearance (paddle to tunnel/cooler) chokes off the snow exiting and hinders performance. I used to be on this side.

I have switched after seeing sleds with both tight clearance and "optimum" clearance.

The area collects snow and ice and it ends up building up which reduces this clearance anyway to the same less than a 1/4" of clearance.

Unless you coat the non cooler where the paddles pass by so the snow and ice doesn't stick, but who does that?
 
I'm a little curious, what would most people consider to be "tight" clearance? 1/8" between the track and cooler? How about 1/2" or so? And what is considered "optimum?"
 
Is there enough poer in the stock 800 to get a good benefit with this track? Had a extreme 2.5 last year and loved it. Thinking about doing the chaincase mod and mount the x3 on my new rmk.
 
Is there enough poer in the stock 800 to get a good benefit with this track? Had a extreme 2.5 last year and loved it. Thinking about doing the chaincase mod and mount the x3 on my new rmk.

My engine is bone stock.
My drivers are 7t, so that geared me down from 2.09 to 2.27.
I've had previously done some clutching upgrades and didn't need changed at all when I went to the 3" track.

I still had NO problem with turning 8400.
 
My engine is bone stock.
My drivers are 7t, so that geared me down from 2.09 to 2.27.
I've had previously done some clutching upgrades and didn't need changed at all when I went to the 3" track.

I still had NO problem with turning 8400.

And you feel and think it's a good upgrade with the x3 track? And worth the money?
 
Don't pay 200 for a chain case mod when you can have a local machine shop for under 50 my local shop did it for 30
 
Premium Features



Back
Top