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3-6 lb garrett actuator

Ive got a 2860 and 2871, and looking for a lower base pressure actuator, lower than the typical 7lb standard.

I have one with a lengthened arm, but I dont want the blow through/extra spool that produces/requires.

Where can you get them?
 
OLD TRAIL TURBO TRICK FORM THE 1980'S

take the signal from the center of the exhuast pipe.
presssure is about 4 psi higher so it will fool the turbointo thinking its at 9 psi.

but the intake pressure will be 5 psi or less. so just a simple swap of line locations on trail allowed lowering boost by 5-7 psi in most applications.
Surprisigly pipe gas temps and heat fatique or melting has not been an issue in all these years. Guess the pressure signal being at a static angle sees just pressure no hot gas FLOW.
Just drill and install a pipe tap nipple for the hose. I use braided teflon lined #4 n20 fees hose.
Gus
 
turbotrick

thanks gus,

I think I get where you are coming from, but, wouldnt this still affect the responsiveness of the system (you are bleeding off even more boost before the target amount is reached, thereby causing even more increased spooling time)? and, in question, how would this affect the boost controller? I'd imagine the internal components could suffer from toxic race gas vapor(?).

Do you have a picture of this setup, it would be interesting to see.

A wastegate that is set to 10lbs begins to open up at 5lbs ... surely why they call it a wastegate. There has got to be a better way to get it to build higher, lower, before opening max at say 5-6lbs. Its on a 600, I gotta keep as much to everything it makes :)




OLD TRAIL TURBO TRICK FORM THE 1980'S

take the signal from the center of the exhuast pipe.
presssure is about 4 psi higher so it will fool the turbointo thinking its at 9 psi.

but the intake pressure will be 5 psi or less. so just a simple swap of line locations on trail allowed lowering boost by 5-7 psi in most applications.
Surprisigly pipe gas temps and heat fatique or melting has not been an issue in all these years. Guess the pressure signal being at a static angle sees just pressure no hot gas FLOW.
Just drill and install a pipe tap nipple for the hose. I use braided teflon lined #4 n20 fees hose.
Gus
 
the one that comes on the turbo is probably garrett part number 480009-6 it starts to moove around 8-9 lbs the lowest one I could source out is part number 480009-9 it starts to move around 4-5lbs. this tested by just hooking up a small pump and pressureing it up without it hooked to the turbo. i was able to get 4-4.5 lbs boost with it on a 700
 
Product Tester (shain stanger of twisted turbo's) has the 3 psi actuators for these. I think in stock even. Give him a PM, definitely a helpfull guy.
 
I was fooling around with my wastegate actuator... Was thinking though... What about the exhaust pressure on the wastegate itself... That has to help the actuator open it some... Anyone know how much pressure the exhaust should equate to at wot?

Would be cool to figure that number out and be able to tune your wastegate perfectly in the shop... (if it even makes a differance, I don' really know...)
 
Ebc

the one that comes on the turbo is probably garrett part number 480009-6 it starts to moove around 8-9 lbs the lowest one I could source out is part number 480009-9 it starts to move around 4-5lbs. this tested by just hooking up a small pump and pressureing it up without it hooked to the turbo. i was able to get 4-4.5 lbs boost with it on a 700

MM, when i looked up those numbers, they are 12-15 and 7 base (what I currently have, that wont go any lower than 7.7 on my sled measured). Thank you for those. I will most likely pull off and port the wastegate and start from there/with a little more consistency/easier flow.

Other than going to an external wastegate (known benefits), a guy could use an electronic boost controller to help keep the boost spikes down, and maybe more consistent to tune..., where the solenoid will connect the wastegate, controlled by "measured boost" from an electronic pressure transducer - the wastegate to open, then, it can close it under a certain psi...thus, fluctuate it better than some "pressure" against some diagphrams and springs. ie: Open at 10.1psi, close at 9.9psi.

Regulated pressure... I guess thats why boondocker is shipping their new kits with a EBC...vs. Brad Storys 1200 with external wastegate? Push Turbos external wastegate setups? what will the future hold? exciting!

-hp
 
No bleed dude,,,
fully closed waste gate !!!
Exhaust presssure RISES before and stays ahead of boost by 5-7 psi on most race systems and 4-5 psi on most trail systems.
SO,
9 psi boost pressure = 13-14 PIPE pressure.
GET it know??pretty neat and really foolishly simple..

By using the pipe to signal the wastegate, when the gate sees the 9 psi to open it the ENGINE side is seeing 4-5 psi LESS !!!!

so your 9 psi can be limited trailside in 1 minute to 4 psi for the lower elvaton ride in or out..
just try it.
you'll see more and more sleds this year with a hose coming out of the pipe..
It works and has NO ill effects on anything.

Gus
 
ding!!!!

Thank you Gus. Way less expensive compared to a $100 act. and easy to test/try, I appreciate the post.

Have you T'd both lines with shut off valves for easy diversion?
(I dont see why I couldnt set it up like that?)
 
Now your thinking like a true 2 stroke turbo addict..

yes, use a t and 2 fuel type on off levers like the stock old doo rotarys had on the footwell.

I also use this signal from the pipe to tell the fuel pressure reg what to do. It keeps your fuel pressure RISE ahead of boost and allows higher final pressure for the carb sytems to prevent starvation at ultra high boost.

ie. 12 psi fuel pressure at idle + 9 psi intake boost = total fuel pressure of 27 psi fuel presssure on my carb sleds .

baisiclly,, fuel pressure stays 16 psi over boost.
It also falls faster than the airbox signal when throttle is chopped.

Gus
 
Gus...

This is a great idea! I spend way to much of my "mental idle time" thinking about this stuff and I've come up with some pretty good ideas, BUT this one has never occurred to me and makes quite a bit of sense!

I've just got to convince myself to believe that the pipe heat isn't going to melt the tubing right where it meets the pipe.

THANKS!
 
I like to use #4 n20 stainless braided hose, it is teflon lined and is pretty to look at too.

From what I can surmise,,, being that we are at a 90 degree angle to the actual flow of hot gas we do not see the direct heat only a small amount of heat synch so to say.

I've been doing like this since my 91 rxl. I stopped every few miles at first checking for heat issue, then after a few days I stopped looking..LOL

I still check them from time to time but as long as the fuel pressure is going up its still intact...duh !:eek:

I have always used about a 2-3 foot section of braid ,, makes me feel better..
n a side note it lets you keep an eye on pipe backpressure on the fly so we who like to push the boost can see when we are getting into that to tight a pipe or a/r over boost danger piont

Gus
Now you know how I get away with 20 plus psi on carbs for so long..I have no desire to go efi.
k.i.s.s
 
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Is there any spot in the pipe works best ? Or could i just mount a line in the end of the pipe before it goes into the compressor? Great tip Gus.
 
I have low psi actuators for the Gt series garretts. 4 psi is the lowest, but you can modify the spring to get lower if needed. They are billet aluminum. Please pm me with any questions or concerns.

$155 shipped
 
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