2nd Rekluse in 2 weeks blew up any ideas

[Andrewcoutavas]

Deep snow+fat guy+long track on ktm 450sxf

Riding in pretty deep heavy snow up to gas tank both times.
Was going around 30 in 3rd gear and then slowed down to go through the trees and it just revved out like the clutch lever was pulled in.

I've got the slavens racing washer nee everything.

Is 275ish and deep snow just to much for these clutches and would going back to stock clutch help?

 

[Rush44]

Sounds to me like your free play gain isn't set right or you are possibly not using a wet clutch certified oil. The Rekluse should handle that load without a problem.

 

[wwillf01]

Rekluse should handle it as long as you have the full clutch with high engagement? The core exp....also the obvious if you free play is not set up right or to low of engagement then you can really burn the clutch up quick...

 

[TillTheEnd]

What these guys said, set your free play gain every ride. Once your above half throttle the clutch is fully engaged and out of the equation. I mean we could talk about how crappy the DDS is but that's a different story. Use heavy weights, light springs and new rotella oil. We've raced off road with these things since they came out they work just need to be maintained.

 

[the gman]

I hope you are using your gears. I have seen guys use them like a automatic. Make sure you have the core exp and check the free play gain ever morning and at lunch. To much gain and you are in the weak part of the bel vile washer, to little and any heat and clutch will slip and burn clutches and plates.

 

[KAWGRN]

I was just going to ask if you were using the optional heaven wedges? I have a Z start in the berg no issues in dirt or snow and the core in my KX and XC both need the heavy wedges or it slipped in higher gears and lower RPM went to the lower engagement and re set the free gain and it works now! But the heavy wedges are a must ,not sure if they work in the dirt though?and Rotella oil is a MUST or AMS OIL 0-30 works good to!I change oil every other ride

 

[TillTheEnd]

I was just going to ask if you were using the optional heaven wedges? I have a Z start in the berg no issues in dirt or snow and the core in my KX and XC both need the heavy wedges or it slipped in higher gears and lower RPM went to the lower engagement and re set the free gain and it works now! But the heavy wedges are a must ,not sure if they work in the dirt though?and Rotella oil is a MUST or AMS OIL 0-30 works good to!I change oil every other ride

I agree with your set up and I agree 100%. Also you should have EXP Core not just the EXP ring, especially on a DDS. I've read some guys on here promoting a high engagement, not sure why? Especially in this application you want to get that clutch locked up quick and horsepower to the snow. I also run a low engagement on my enduro set up 300's in the summer it works well with the jetting exhaust combo I like, power on early and pulls linear. My 250 set up is higher engagement and a 4s again unique. Call rekluse they'll set you up and carry an Allen wrench in your toolkit and check your free play often.

 

[wwillf01]

I agree with your set up and I agree 100%. Also you should have EXP Core not just the EXP ring, especially on a DDS. I've read some guys on here promoting a high engagement, not sure why? Especially in this application you want to get that clutch locked up quick and horsepower to the snow. I also run a low engagement on my enduro set up 300's in the summer it works well with the jetting exhaust combo I like, power on early and pulls linear. My 250 set up is higher engagement and a 4s again unique. Call rekluse they'll set you up and carry an Allen wrench in your toolkit and check your free play often.

It's my understanding the high engagement locks up the clutch quicker with less slipping... I have 370 hours on my 2013 300 plates still in spec... I find the high engagement works the best if ridden aggressively. ...... this is how I have it set on all my bikes kx 65 (7 year old rides this on anything and clutch wear is minimal....)crf150r ( keeps this one from flaming out) cr500 (highly mpdified but is the zstart... 50 hours zero clutch wear all snow) yz250f ktm 300.... man my family needs to find a new hobby

 

[wwillf01]

One other thing I might add is you have to set free play to what your average operating temp is going to be which is different depending on how much snow is hitting the engine and if you have a stat... so if you are running cooler make Sure to set it for that temp... is your oil coming out of the engine burnt? Using a full synthetic could cause unwanted slip also.

 

[Rush44]

Using a full synthetic could cause unwanted slip also.

You can run Rotella T6 full synthetic with the Core EXP products without a problem. It's what I would recommend for protection and better cold weather starting.

 

[wwillf01]

You can run Rotella T6 full synthetic with the Core EXP products without a problem. It's what I would recommend for protection and better cold weather starting.

Do you think that is better than the 5w semi synthetic rotella? Blue bottle....That's what I have been using... And the summer 15w white bottle,


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[Rush44]

The blue bottle T6 is full synthetic, not semi. I would not alternate between full synthetic and conventional oil... not good for the motor. Just run T6 all year round. They have the same viscosity levels at temp.

 

[wwillf01]

The blue bottle T6 is full synthetic, not semi. I would not alternate between full synthetic and conventional oil... not good for the motor. Just run T6 all year round. They have the same viscosity levels at temp.

For me I am talking 2 stroke or Hondas so clutch only... I can't run the synthetic in the summer it is way way way to light for me... .... I have not had an issue... If it was a 4 stroke mixed between the clutch and engine maybe there is an issue but I still would not worry to much...


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[Rush44]

I'm talking 4 strokes specifically. I don't know the best practices for 2 strokes.

 

[TillTheEnd]

It's my understanding the high engagement locks up the clutch quicker with less slipping... I have 370 hours on my 2013 300 plates still in spec... I find the high engagement works the best if ridden aggressively. ...... this is how I have it set on all my bikes kx 65 (7 year old rides this on anything and clutch wear is minimal....)crf150r ( keeps this one from flaming out) cr500 (highly mpdified but is the zstart... 50 hours zero clutch wear all snow) yz250f ktm 300.... man my family needs to find a new hobby[/QUOTE

The engagement is only where the clutch opening starts, it still needs to travel from open to full lock out. So the higher in the rpm range you start the higher you need to run the motor to maintain full lock out. So guys lugging there 4s are going to be slipping the clutch more. On a cr 500 it doesn't matter most of those build big end on the pipe power, like an angry 250, so you have to be in it. And same with a 250f you need it higher to avoid the flameout, but motocross you need minimal slip. It's all about where the bike makes power and how to get it to the snow or ground. The other thing is to verify your clutch pack height is in spec, not sure if it's as much of an issue on the 4s(we gave those up 2 years ago) as the 2s core clutches but KTM has 2 different drive plate thickness and the exp ring needs exact tolerance or it can give you false free play gain readings. Learned that the hard way at a national enduro race with my first DDSExp core 2.0 back in 2012 raced my 2011 with a normal pressure plate for 3 weeks till rekluse figured it out.

 

[powdermuncher]

I prefer the Z star pro less issues period. one thing you need to do with any of them is shift especially on the track kit it is easy to cook a clutch if you do not shift down when needed. The recluse makes people lazy on the shifter and you will pay the price if you do not make her rev instead of sliping the clutch.

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

slipping along

none of the models of recluse clutch's can stand constant slipping. I ran a recluse for 8 years in my yzf. NO wear none. Over the years though while helping tune other bikes,, 5 minutes with a new rider on my bike and they were thinking the thing had an automatic transmission and the poor Yzf was overheating.......blistering hot.

You have to ride a recluse like a sled, as soon as you are moving, get that CLUTCH LOCKED UP. ITS an emergency services device, bails you out once and awhile, lean on it all the time and you will pay.

 

[Andrewcoutavas]

Thanks for all the replies it turned out to be nothing wrong with internal clutch parts but was just out of adjustment. Readjusted free play gain and was good to go.

 

[johnny be bad]

im running a z start and zero issues. i think its better for snowbikes

 

[Blaser]

Rekluse is a solid company with excellent customer service people. If any of you have problems or questions with their products- give them a call and they will take care of you. They also own Timbersled kits, and most of their team have all ridden our bikes or theirs. They can talk from experience.

They're even working on new products with us, that are super cool and hopefully coming soon.

My point is that while the forum is a good place for opinions; product questions are always best fielded (first) by the dealer, and/or the manufacturer of the product.
Blaser