22 Matryx 165 Kaos Slash 850 running rich after break in?

[rocdog]

This sled has 400mi on it so it is out of "break in" mode. But it is still running rich. Not as bad as it was in break in mode.

Takes 3 times on electric start to fire it up when riding. 1st turn of the key the motor fires up and dies like it has to much gas/oil in it. 2nd try it runs rough idle or barely idle then die. 3rd time usually gets it running.

Myself and everyone I ride with can smell it is running rich plus when I ride it I can feel it at lower rpms Once I open her up she seems to pull clean and hard.

I have tried talking to useless dealerships that are no help. They won't reflash the ecu because it is not a recall or bulletin. They want to charge me to do it. Even know i have a 4 year warranty. Not sure that will even fix it though.

Anyone else having this same issue?
Only upgrades are:
Diamond S can
Lithium Battery
And TRS proper clutching.

 

[chevy_man]

Put the stock can back on and see how it runs.


First rule of troubleshooting, put it all back to stock and start from there.

 

[rocdog]

Put the stock can back on and see how it runs.


First rule of troubleshooting, put it all back to stock and start from there.

I would agree in most cases. But Diamond S can is probably the most used can by so many on this same motor. Dont think I would be the only one with this issue because of the can.

 

[Teth-Air]

My 23 is in break-in stil but I had to switch it out of ethanol mode and to the non-ethanol mode to get it to clean up. Worked like magic. Have you tried this?
On my 19 I went to hotter plugs but now at the 4th flash I am able to run the stock plugs. Just ideas to try. When the pipe is cold they do seem to load up more, this is why the other posted suggested trying the stock can as it will have more back-pressure and keep the pipe hotter.

 

[Ultrasauras]

Can you tell your in break in mode with the standard gauge?

 

[rocdog]

My 23 is in break-in stil but I had to switch it out of ethanol mode and to the non-ethanol mode to get it to clean up. Worked like magic. Have you tried this?
On my 19 I went to hotter plugs but now at the 4th flash I am able to run the stock plugs. Just ideas to try. When the pipe is cold they do seem to load up more, this is why the other posted suggested trying the stock can as it will have more back-pressure and keep the pipe hotter.

Yeah I started running non-ethanol 91 and running in non-ethanol mode. No change. Haven't tried hotter plugs .
I am going to push 1 of my local dealers to flash my computer. Not sure what else it can be.

 

[rocdog]

Can you tell your in break in mode with the standard gauge?

Not sure. I have the 7s which gives you full details.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I would agree in most cases. But Diamond S can is probably the most used can by so many on this same motor. Dont think I would be the only one with this issue because of the can.

Unfortunately all cans and all sleds do not react the same.

It’s free to try the stock can.

I’ve seen 2 matryx and 3 axys 850’s clean up with stock can. (Bunch of different brand cans)

The 850 is more susceptible than the older Polaris sleds were due to the sensor in the silencer controlling fuel trim.

 

[mt.sledder]

Try running ethanol fuel in the non ethanol premium mode. The ethanol fuel requires a richer map with less timing but by using the non ethanol mode on your sled it will in theory lean it out a bit more. Your essentially running a slightly leaner map with a bit more timing. My sled is not ridable in the ethanol mode and runs extremely rich in the non ethanol mode. However it cleans up a lot if I use ethanol fuel in the non ethanol mode. This was a tip given to me by a very respected member on here.

 

[Thump]

I have the same sled and the same problem. Totally stock except for different bars and Munster throttle.The first start of the day it would start good then about 3-4 seconds later go down on one cylinder them stall out, pull the plugs and they are soaked. Change plugs and it would start and run normal for rest of the day. It did this 3 days in a row at Grizzly Lodge last March when the sled was brand new. Sled is now out of breaking mode. Had it to the dealer before I parked it for the year and they changed the injectors and electrical harness feeding it thinking maybe the injectors were leaking down into the cylinders over time. Didn’t help as when I picked it up two weeks ago from getting the recalls done it did the same thing when the dealer went to start it. So between the dealer and I, I have been trying different things to pinpoint the problem. Tested the coils, manual says 18k +-15%. Mine tested 12.7k. So that tells me they are out of spec so I phoned dealer and asked them to check coils on a new sled in there showroom, they tested the same numbers I got, weird. Does that mean both sleds are out of spec or is the service manual wrong?? Will be pursuing for an answer. I have disconnected the battery to clear the computer hoping it may change something,dealer thinking maybe stuck in the breakin mode, didn’t help. I ran the sled around my property for 10 minutes then parked it beside my shop for the night, pulled the plugs and they are dry. The next morning I apply the kill switch to off position and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds then pull the plugs and they are dry, telling me there is no fuel leaking into the cylinders. The last 3 out of 4 days I have started it and it has kept running at -20c, died one day, but it is dreadfully rich almost to the point of flooding itself. Sled has fresh fuel 91 octane with ethanol and in the 91 octane setting. I’m assuming somewhere in the system there would be a temperature sensor of some sort for the fuel injection, maybe not calibrated right? I’m thinking it has to be a fuel mapping problem within the warmup period. There has not been any codes show up so this makes it hard for the dealer to nail the problem and fix it properly. I did send an email yesterday to the Polaris help line so I will see what they have to say.

 

[rocdog]

Try running ethanol fuel in the non ethanol premium mode. The ethanol fuel requires a richer map with less timing but by using the non ethanol mode on your sled it will in theory lean it out a bit more. Your essentially running a slightly leaner map with a bit more timing. My sled is not ridable in the ethanol mode and runs extremely rich in the non ethanol mode. However it cleans up a lot if I use ethanol fuel in the non ethanol mode. This was a tip given to me by a very respected member on here.

Wow now that is something I wouldn't have considered. Seems a little backwards but with all the slap dick **** Polaris has been doing for the past 2yrs, would not be surprising.

 

[rocdog]

I have the same sled and the same problem. Totally stock except for different bars and Munster throttle.The first start of the day it would start good then about 3-4 seconds later go down on one cylinder them stall out, pull the plugs and they are soaked. Change plugs and it would start and run normal for rest of the day. It did this 3 days in a row at Grizzly Lodge last March when the sled was brand new. Sled is now out of breaking mode. Had it to the dealer before I parked it for the year and they changed the injectors and electrical harness feeding it thinking maybe the injectors were leaking down into the cylinders over time. Didn’t help as when I picked it up two weeks ago from getting the recalls done it did the same thing when the dealer went to start it. So between the dealer and I, I have been trying different things to pinpoint the problem. Tested the coils, manual says 18k +-15%. Mine tested 12.7k. So that tells me they are out of spec so I phoned dealer and asked them to check coils on a new sled in there showroom, they tested the same numbers I got, weird. Does that mean both sleds are out of spec or is the service manual wrong?? Will be pursuing for an answer. I have disconnected the battery to clear the computer hoping it may change something,dealer thinking maybe stuck in the breakin mode, didn’t help. I ran the sled around my property for 10 minutes then parked it beside my shop for the night, pulled the plugs and they are dry. The next morning I apply the kill switch to off position and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds then pull the plugs and they are dry, telling me there is no fuel leaking into the cylinders. The last 3 out of 4 days I have started it and it has kept running at -20c, died one day, but it is dreadfully rich almost to the point of flooding itself. Sled has fresh fuel 91 octane with ethanol and in the 91 octane setting. I’m assuming somewhere in the system there would be a temperature sensor of some sort for the fuel injection, maybe not calibrated right? I’m thinking it has to be a fuel mapping problem within the warmup period. There has not been any codes show up so this makes it hard for the dealer to nail the problem and fix it properly. I did send an email yesterday to the Polaris help line so I will see what they have to say.

What makes the most sense to me is the tune. Something in the tune is not right. Mine starts fine after it sits for awhile. But during a normal riding day, where I start and stop it a million times, it takes 3 tries in most cases to get it running and idling properly. And when I get going it is obvious it is running rich. Especially after a short stop and restart. But once I get cracking the throttle she starts barking again and seems to run good especially on the top end. Bottom end I can tell more that it is running rich. Not to mention myself and people I ride with can smell it.

 

[diamonddave]

You guys need to change or swap your coil packs. They are junk in a SDI platform and static testing with a meter will not prove anything. I’ve had great success on this.

 

[rocdog]

You guys need to change or swap your coil packs. They are junk in a SDI platform and static testing with a meter will not prove anything. I’ve had great success on this.

Are you saying swap them to an aftermarket brand? Or swap out from factory to factory?

 

[chevy_man]

I would agree in most cases. But Diamond S can is probably the most used can by so many on this same motor. Dont think I would be the only one with this issue because of the can.

2t. Exhaust is huge on all 2t motors. We used to re-jet every time we changed a pipe or can because it always changes.

Just because it's generally close enough, doesn't mean it's close enough on your exact sled.



Coil may need a higher voltage tester to test correctly. Multimeters won't necessarily read correctly.

 

[rocdog]

I just saw on my sled the exhaust EGT sensor was loose. I am sure this is not helping but not confident this is my full problem. But we will see.

 

[armey37]

I just saw on my sled the exhaust EGT sensor was loose. I am sure this is not helping but not confident this is my full problem. But we will see.

I have your same sled with diamond S can, TRS clutching and Munster throttle. She runs like a top. I swapped plugs for fun after breakin. I run non ethanol fuel in non ethanol mode. Only other thing is I always let the motor warm up until “cold engine” light turns off before touching the throttle. Does it run fine once it’s started?

 

[Teth-Air]

I have the same sled and the same problem. Totally stock except for different bars and Munster throttle.The first start of the day it would start good then about 3-4 seconds later go down on one cylinder them stall out, pull the plugs and they are soaked. Change plugs and it would start and run normal for rest of the day. It did this 3 days in a row at Grizzly Lodge last March when the sled was brand new. Sled is now out of breaking mode. Had it to the dealer before I parked it for the year and they changed the injectors and electrical harness feeding it thinking maybe the injectors were leaking down into the cylinders over time. Didn’t help as when I picked it up two weeks ago from getting the recalls done it did the same thing when the dealer went to start it. So between the dealer and I, I have been trying different things to pinpoint the problem. Tested the coils, manual says 18k +-15%. Mine tested 12.7k. So that tells me they are out of spec so I phoned dealer and asked them to check coils on a new sled in there showroom, they tested the same numbers I got, weird. Does that mean both sleds are out of spec or is the service manual wrong?? Will be pursuing for an answer. I have disconnected the battery to clear the computer hoping it may change something,dealer thinking maybe stuck in the breakin mode, didn’t help. I ran the sled around my property for 10 minutes then parked it beside my shop for the night, pulled the plugs and they are dry. The next morning I apply the kill switch to off position and crank the engine for 7-8 seconds then pull the plugs and they are dry, telling me there is no fuel leaking into the cylinders. The last 3 out of 4 days I have started it and it has kept running at -20c, died one day, but it is dreadfully rich almost to the point of flooding itself. Sled has fresh fuel 91 octane with ethanol and in the 91 octane setting. I’m assuming somewhere in the system there would be a temperature sensor of some sort for the fuel injection, maybe not calibrated right? I’m thinking it has to be a fuel mapping problem within the warmup period. There has not been any codes show up so this makes it hard for the dealer to nail the problem and fix it properly. I did send an email yesterday to the Polaris help line so I will see what they have to say.

Try this.

Park your sled overnight or until cold. Remove the temperature sensors in the pipe and can. Heat them with a heat gun. Quickly install and try starting. If it runs good it is clear that the computer is overfueling based on temperature. If it does not run well then go back and look into the coils to see if they are a problem. Try swapping from a sled that runs good.

 

[Ultrasauras]

Does your sled pull max rpm?

 

[rocdog]

No it does not. Pulls around 7950 to 8000.