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2016 rmk leftover

I think I'm making the transition to Polaris. These axys sleds have great reviews on the world wide web and from friends. Looking at the 2016 pro 155 2.6".
I ride very aggressive and am not easy on them. I keep up on maintenance religiously.

Searching around, here is the list of needed upgrades before first ride.

-Fully clip track
-aftermarket rear bumper (makes tunnel more ridged?)
-A-arms (aftermarket or reinforce stock?)

Should the following be considered?

-spindles
-clutching
-gearing
-suspension

Feel free to add anything. I'm not in the market for a turbo at this time. Just trying to figure out what its gonna cost to get this thing mtn ready. This will help figure out how much or little downpayment i should make!! Not to mention necessary parts.

Thanks gentlemen
 
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I think I'm making the transition to Polaris. These axys sleds have great reviews on the world wide web and from friends. Looking at the 2016 pro 155 2.6".
I ride very aggressive and am not easy on them. I keep up on maintenance religiously.

Searching around, here is the list of needed upgrades before first ride.

-Fully clip track
-aftermarket rear bumper (makes tunnel more ridged?)
-A-arms (aftermarket or reinforce stock?)

Should the following be considered?

-spindles
-clutching
-gearing
-suspension

Feel free to add anything. I'm not in the market for a turbo at this time. Just trying to figure out what its gonna cost to get this thing mtn ready. This will help figure out how much or little downpayment i should make!! Not to mention necessary parts.

Thanks gentlemen

Welcome to Polaris.
The first thing I want to point out is several things on your lists is not needed at all. Yes, there may be topics related to each of those items in the forum but they are not issues that everyone has. I'll explain in more detail.

Fully clipping the track= This can be hit and miss, and is related to how and where you ride. Ride hard packed or groomed trails to get to your back country areas and you may see wear on the inside of the track. BUT, if you ride very aggressive, your likely going to tear lugs off the track before you every wear the inside of the track enough to have to replace it. For me, clipping the track is a waste of time and money.

Rear bumper = aftermarket is fine, but so is the stock bumper. Ive always ran the stock one and never broke one. Some of the huge rear bumpers with the long wide plates will add more support, but unless your towing its not needed. If your going to damage a tunnel is going to happen in the foot well area.

A-arms = Again, this is varies by rider. Some people will make you think your going to bend the stock arms going down the trail. The truth is the stock arms hold up very well. BUT, there are guys that destroy stock ones and aftermarket. Personally I wouldnt spend money on the brace option. Either run the stockers or go aftermarket.

Spindles = Not needed at all. Yes there are pictures of broken ones out there. Bad casting caused them to fail. Not a common issue at all.

Clutching = Stock clutching works VERY well in all conditions, just buy the correct primary weights for your elevation.

Gearing = Depends on what you like. I would say ride the sled first and see what you think. Some guys gear up, some go down.

Suspension = The stock shocks kind of suck. This really depends on how much time you spend on the trail and how much extra money you want to spend. you can drop 2500 real quick on shocks.

Eric
 
Welcome to Polaris.
The first thing I want to point out is several things on your lists is not needed at all. Yes, there may be topics related to each of those items in the forum but they are not issues that everyone has. I'll explain in more detail.

Fully clipping the track= This can be hit and miss, and is related to how and where you ride. Ride hard packed or groomed trails to get to your back country areas and you may see wear on the inside of the track. BUT, if you ride very aggressive, your likely going to tear lugs off the track before you every wear the inside of the track enough to have to replace it. For me, clipping the track is a waste of time and money.

Rear bumper = aftermarket is fine, but so is the stock bumper. Ive always ran the stock one and never broke one. Some of the huge rear bumpers with the long wide plates will add more support, but unless your towing its not needed. If your going to damage a tunnel is going to happen in the foot well area.

A-arms = Again, this is varies by rider. Some people will make you think your going to bend the stock arms going down the trail. The truth is the stock arms hold up very well. BUT, there are guys that destroy stock ones and aftermarket. Personally I wouldnt spend money on the brace option. Either run the stockers or go aftermarket.

Spindles = Not needed at all. Yes there are pictures of broken ones out there. Bad casting caused them to fail. Not a common issue at all.

Clutching = Stock clutching works VERY well in all conditions, just buy the correct primary weights for your elevation.

Gearing = Depends on what you like. I would say ride the sled first and see what you think. Some guys gear up, some go down.

Suspension = The stock shocks kind of suck. This really depends on how much time you spend on the trail and how much extra money you want to spend. you can drop 2500 real quick on shocks.

Eric

Excellent post.
So many people buy a new chassis and think that before they even ride it they have to drop hundreds or thousands just to make it rideable. When you do that, how do you know your changes changed anything?
 
I agree with the mentality of trying it before changing everything based on forum chatter...


however, I would put a stronger front bumper on it-- especially if your idea of aggressive riding is the same as mine, tight trees.....
 
thank you for the detailed reply.

I'm defiantly riding it bone stock a handful of times because I agree with needing to know a baseline. Just getting a feel on some of that stuff. Really, I'm most concerned with, if any..........it absolutely needs addressed (preventative maintenance) in this area.

This sled will see its fair share of abuse. It will see hard landings, rolls, hit trees and rocks in that order on many, "watch this" occasions. That being said, back in my REV days, I always kept spare parts.....bulkhead, a-arms, throttle cable, clutch parts, etc. Then I got smart and bought another sled.

With this going to be my only sled, I'll most likely buy a spare set of A arms, if that is the first weak point on these. What else should be considered?
 
I got an assault so I don't have the need for a arm fix unless I want to narrow them but I did throw a set of iceage rail supports on and a skid plate .... I just know I'm not nice to my sled and wanting to avoid more costly repairs on the parts I know I'm guna hammer ... as for tunnel/ bumpers and the rest if u hade a oO0 $hIt on those tis prob.. a big 0oO $HiT and nothing going to save ya now :D just my 0.02
 
I got an assault so I don't have the need for a arm fix unless I want to narrow them but I did throw a set of iceage rail supports on and a skid plate .... I just know I'm not nice to my sled and wanting to avoid more costly repairs on the parts I know I'm guna hammer ... as for tunnel/ bumpers and the rest if u hade a oO0 $hIt on those tis prob.. a big 0oO $HiT and nothing going to save ya now :D just my 0.02

X2 same here .. but all are same chassis now .. but with chain case we have a second chance if it meets a Rock ( belt drive install ) QD is Broke and totaled from what I read
 
o yea I heard that the 3in tracks don't need clips like the 2.5 {clips are in the right spot above the lugs} and if I remember right the assault sets around 10 pounds heaver but has stronger a arms, steering post, tunnel, rails and better shocks {I'm sure if I got "sumtinwong" someone will pipe in and correct me.. haven't read up on all that in a year or so} N-E-whooo just sumtin to think about!
 
My Thoughts based on my previous sleds

Buy it with longest warranty offered,it's paid off for me

Insure it......Damage /rocks happen.State Farm for me,best price by far

Skid plate, front bumper, rear bumper after that
 
Fully clipping the track= This can be hit and miss, and is related to how and where you ride. Ride hard packed or groomed trails to get to your back country areas and you may see wear on the inside of the track. BUT, if you ride very aggressive, your likely going to tear lugs off the track before you every wear the inside of the track enough to have to replace it. For me, clipping the track is a waste of time and money.
Eric

I agree this could be something you just watch and address if needed. I don't think it necessarily has to do with trail riding. We have one showing severe wear with less than 1000 miles and one at about 400 miles with moderate wear. The areas we ride have little or no trail miles. A lot of steep sidehilling in spring conditions may have more to do with it but who knows.
 
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