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2014 rmk pro 800 going back the the shop today...

I went riding this weekend and had an awesome time getting face shots for 2-3 hours.
This was my second ride on the machine which had 72 miles on it and finished the day around 115.
Unfortunately i was noticing symptoms though out the day.
1st
high idle (4000) clutchs were almost both engaged.
2nd
My gloves were icing over and with that the hand warmers weren't working.
3rd
massive fuel consumption, hard to indicate because of all the track spin.
Ride time for that day was 8:30 to loaded back up by 11:45
 
I went riding this weekend and had an awesome time getting face shots for 2-3 hours.
This was my second ride on the machine which had 72 miles on it and finished the day around 115.
Unfortunately i was noticing symptoms though out the day.
1st
high idle (4000) clutchs were almost both engaged.
2nd
My gloves were icing over and with that the hand warmers weren't working.
3rd
massive fuel consumption, hard to indicate because of all the track spin.
Ride time for that day was 8:30 to loaded back up by 11:45

1- is it possible ice buildup was stopping your throttle lever from returning fully? mine does this often in the very deep. My best solution has been to spray that area with wd40 before each ride.

2-the warmers lose most of their power to the aluminum bars. Look up corking your hand warmers, or worst case switch to a steel bar.
 
1- is it possible ice buildup was stopping your throttle lever from returning fully? mine does this often in the very deep. My best solution has been to spray that area with wd40 before each ride.

2-the warmers lose most of their power to the aluminum bars. Look up corking your hand warmers, or worst case switch to a steel bar.




Can you fill the bars with spray foam and not take the grips off to cork them?
 
Did the spray foam trick on my aluminum bars a couple of days ago. Tried them out yesterday. Made a noticeable difference for me.
 
Or,, the plug in the consul for the hand warmer switch is loose.

I like to zap strap those 3 plugs on.

Is the idle back to normal after it thawed out?
 
1- is it possible ice buildup was stopping your throttle lever from returning fully? mine does this often in the very deep. My best solution has been to spray that area with wd40 before each ride.

That might sound crazy but it's happened to me a couple times in really cold weather. Ice builds up behind the block. Moving the throttle back and forth while the machine is off frees it up a little. I use silicone spray on mine every so often and it keeps it from freezing up.
 
just took mine into the shop today. it was cutting out, then would die. no warning lights or any other info on the gage. we are leaving for Hawaii tomorrow, so wont know what was wrong till jan 6th.
 
No need to go back to the shop.
You had a good day.

Put your sled in the shop over night and let it thaw.
The throttle problem may go away...until you get in DEEP snow again the next time. LOL

The warmers may have come unplugged behind the switch. If you know how to pop a few push darts, you can worm your fingers back in there and get to it.

45miles on a tank? That's low, but if the powder was over the windshield all day and you were breaking trail most of the time, I could see it.



Check the plugs, check the oil, fill the tank and try it again.
 
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I have this freezing problem with the throttle all the time, if you are in deep and the snow is fluffy it ices up around the leaver. I tried all the sprays and such but it only slows the process down doesn't solve it. I have switched over to RSI's new heated throttle block I have it on the sled but haven't run it yet so I can't say how good it is, but it is much more open and there is no ledge for the snow to get trapped on like the stock one so even with out the heat it appears it will work better.
 
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