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2014 Pro Rmk 163 track swap

benltr

Member
Lifetime Membership
Hey guys,

This weekend me and a buddy are going to swap our 5.1 track on our Pro RMK 163 2014. We put another new 5.1 on them.

Any special tools or tips for us ? It's our first time.

I have the manual shop for 2012 but not for the new quick drive system so that's why i am asking.

How long does it takes if we are 2 working on the sled?
 
Two impact drivers to get suspension bolts out, one for each side.
This imo is the hardest part of the whole swap.
Torque wrench, blue loc tite, torque specs.
Heated garage to work in :face-icon-small-hap
 
Hey guys,

This weekend me and a buddy are going to swap our 5.1 track on our Pro RMK 163 2014. We put another new 5.1 on them.

Any special tools or tips for us ? It's our first time.

I have the manual shop for 2012 but not for the new quick drive system so that's why i am asking.

How long does it takes if we are 2 working on the sled?


I am currently in the same boat as you are. I have the skid out and my secondary off and both my quick drive pulleys off... And where to go from there I have no fucing idea. It's funny how when it comes to something that's have way important no one cares or knows how to do it right. But hey let's talk about which muffler is the loudest... Who gives a shiI you hippy just buy one. Lol I hope you get a answer and then I will have mine to. Benltr this is no attack on you I case you were taken back by any of my verbiage.
 
Are the alignment tools really necessary? I put Kurt's gear down kit on my Pro and it took about 30 seconds to put the cogs on without any tools, did I just get lucky?
 
Hey guys,

This weekend me and a buddy are going to swap our 5.1 track on our Pro RMK 163 2014. We put another new 5.1 on them.

Any special tools or tips for us ? It's our first time.

I have the manual shop for 2012 but not for the new quick drive system so that's why i am asking.

How long does it takes if we are 2 working on the sled?

Using the stock QD system, the quickest/least frustrating route of installing will require the special alignment tools. The ones my friends and I have swapped in the field, we have flipped on their side while installing the QD belt.

Lift rear end of sled, remove tension from track, remove four skid bolts using impact, pull skid out. This is easy with two guys, one guy use tie down straps to hold track for skid removal.

Unbolt the bearing retention cup on the PTO side of the sled, then unbolt the upper/lower bolts on QD drive and remove pulleys/belt. Remove driveshaft and track.

Now please go buy new pulley upper/lower bolts. We have seen 5 lower pulley bolt failures (some due to reusing, some not.)

Install track, install driver in pto side first then slide into mag side. Install skid, flip sled on side, install QD system using polaris install tools. Adjust track and toque everything to spec.

I would say shy of 2hrs for the first sled, just over an hour for the 2nd if you are taking the time to properly torque....

Not the greatest write up but should get you going...
 
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The happy face tools make install much easier.

http://happyfacepp.com/polaris-quick-drive-pulley-install-tools/

14-Alum-Studs-400-x-300-400x300.jpg


14-studs.jpg


DSCN2760-400x300-400x300.jpg





.
 
Getting the bolts out of the rear suspension, both the ones in the tunnel and the ones in the axle is a PITA for a first timer.

The trick is to tighten down one side well... Then back the other side out almost all the way... and spin it in/out a few times... then tighten that one down well and do the other side.... then take them both out..

As WJL said... an impact gun makes this much easier... still do this back/forth trick and you will have no issues.

Getting the skid back in takes patience and two people if you want to make it easy.

I've had better luck hanging the sled in the back than leaning it on its side to get the skid out.


Bolt wise... On the last couple of QD sleds I've put togehter... I've used ARP 8740 Crome Moly bolts on the bottom and top pulley.

The Quality control on ARP fasteners is some of the best in the industry.

IMO, these are the absolute best bolts you can get for the QuickDrive pulleys.

Pricey... but then you will have some for your friends too.

Just get em...

You will need also some Blue Loctite and brake cleaner spray.

Clean the oil residue from the bolt threads and the threads in the jackshaft and driveshaft with brake cleaner... and let it dry well.... THEN use the blue Loctite.

Lock the brake lever to hold the shafts after you install the belts and snug down the bolts part way

Torque the bolts to 45-47 ft-lbs.

ARP:
8740 CHROME MOLY: Until the development of today’s modern alloys, chrome moly was popularly considered a high strength material. Now viewed as only moderate strength, 8740 chrome moly is seen as a good tough steel, with adequate fatigue properties for most racing applications, but only if the threads are rolled after heat-treatment, as is the standard ARP production practice. Typically, chrome moly is classified as a quench and temper steel, that can be heat-treated to deliver tensile strengths between 180,000 and 210,000 psi.

What is the difference between 4130 and 8740 chrome moly?
Both are alloy steels with similar chemistry. The 4130 has only .3% carbon and can’t be hardened as high as 8740, which has .4% carbon. Also, 8740 has about .45% nickel and 4130 has none. Both have moly (most alloy steels have moly). The chromium content of 4130 is slightly higher, .95% instead of .55% (for the 8740). However, 8740 is generally considered to have slightly better toughness due to the nickel.

Top 2014/2015
ARP-663-1005
Hex Head, Chromoly Steel, Black Oxide, 10mm x 1.25 RH Thread, 40mm UHL
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/arp-663-1005
663-1005.jpg



Bottom 2013/2014/2015
AND
2013 TOP

ARP-663-1001
Bolts, Hex Head, Chromoly Steel, Black Oxide, 10mm x 1.25 RH Thread, 20mm UHL
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/arp-663-1001
663-1001.jpg



<iframe width="850" height="478" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/e-DYp8q2fjA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>




.
 
Last edited:
Using the stock QD system, the quickest/least frustrating route of installing will require the special alignment tools. The ones my friends and I have swapped in the field, we have flipped on their side while installing the QD belt.

Lift rear end of sled, remove tension from track, remove four skid bolts using impact, pull skid out. This is easy with two guys, one guy use tie down straps to hold track for skid removal.

Unbolt the bearing retention cup on the PTO side of the sled, then unbolt the upper/lower bolts on QD drive and remove pulleys/belt. Remove driveshaft and track.

Now please go buy new pulley upper/lower bolts. We have seen 5 lower pulley bolt failures (some due to reusing, some not.)

Install track, install driver in pto side first then slide into mag side. Install skid, flip sled on side, install QD system using polaris install tools. Adjust track and toque everything to spec.

I would say shy of 2hrs for the first sled, just over an hour for the 2nd if you are taking the time to properly torque....

Not the greatest write up but should get you going...


First and foremost thank you for the post. I have one question. After unbolting the bearing retention cup on the PTO side of the sled and removing the upper/lower bolts on QD drive and removing the pulleys/belt you should be able to remove the drive shaft? So you don't have to remove the plate that's behind the bottom and top pulleys? do you have to tap the drive shaft towards the PTO side? I just asking so I don't get excited and break something.
 
Not recommending NordLock on the shaft sprockets any longer.



EDIT: I've removed this information as ...

I no longer recommend the NordLock washers on the driveshaft...

Here's what I'm going with.

Clean the bolt with brake cleaner... even if new... clean the threads in the shafts with a tap (cheap at your local hardware store)... and blow out with brake cleaner... Let dry and then apply liberal amounts of the blue liquid loctite.
 
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Nord-locks are fantastic, we use them at work on our high vibration stuff.

I might just add them to my sleds like you mentioned MH.

EDIT: Just realized I wont need them on my 11 Rmk as i have KMOD arms which use the old prox design (bolt+nut).
 
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Nordlocks are also the ticket for exhaust Y-pipe fasteners if you're having issues with them coming loose or falling out.
 
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