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redbull660
Well-known member
Bought a couple pros last winter and noticed that they would over heat quite easily, even with scratchers. Is there any kind of a simple fix or kit that can be installed? By pass kit?
2014 pro overheats, any fix
- Thread starter redbull660
- Start date
FYI, they will heat up quickly if you're just putting around through marginal snow or on hard pack snow or ice. I don't know what kind of winter time temps you get, but I thin out the antifreeze mix so it''ll protect to around -30*F. Antifreeze doesn't like to absorb heat like water does. I believe Polaris sends them out with a mix for -50*F which I believe is a 50/50 mix.
Things to check:
Thermostats on each work.
Bleed the cooling system to remove any air. It's common to get air trapped in the tunnel coolers if not bled properly.
I have used the Ice Storm scratchers and can yell you that there is nothing better for creating an massive snow spray into the track. I think GoBigParts sells them.
Things to check:
Thermostats on each work.
Bleed the cooling system to remove any air. It's common to get air trapped in the tunnel coolers if not bled properly.
I have used the Ice Storm scratchers and can yell you that there is nothing better for creating an massive snow spray into the track. I think GoBigParts sells them.
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redbull660
Well-known member
I heard someone last winter say something about a $28 fix but I'm not sure what that is.
The $28 fix is a thermostat bypass setup, let me see if I can find a link...
Here is one: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369441&highlight=northstar
No details on creating it yourself but I am sure you can find details in another thread...
Here is one: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369441&highlight=northstar
No details on creating it yourself but I am sure you can find details in another thread...
You can play with the thermostat fix and the BRP (skidoo) stat fix will help but there is no subsitiute for more snow on the cooler tubes in the chassis!! I found also that a tunnel bag cuts down on the cooling efficentcy so I stand my tunnel bag up on the chassis on 1" channel on edge or 80/20 1" extrusion and this lets air and snow under the bag and that really helps Also use or change out the flap to the new fla[
The 28$ fix isn't for keeping temps down in low snow pack conditions. I'll probably take some heat for this but you can always remove the thermostat. I know several people including myself who did this on the pros with no adverse results, need to watch temp gauge for proper warm up process.
Agree that getting snow on the coolers is the main goal. I am personally going to change to the 2016(?) SKS flap for starters, it is longer and more scoop-like and does not have those silly holes in it. $30 fix there. Had not thought about the tunnel bag issue, wont help much in spring snow conditions to raise it IMHO, but any other conditions where snow can get on top of the tunnel it should. I'll also check out those Ice Storm scratchers mentioned earlier...
I think the kit helps more with stabilizing temps? so the engine does not get the "cold shot" on startup after sitting a little while? Although a lot of guys were making it sound like it brings down temps overall, not sure how that would work since the cooler area is the limitation.
I also had read somewhere else (as well as this thread now) about diluting the coolant down (with distilled water) since most people do not need 50 below protection (depending on your climate), and it cools better with higher water percentage. We almost never get below like -20, so -30 would be safe for me, may try that too.
All good ideas. Too bad Polaris did not make it easier to add the standard RMK front tunnel cooler back in as a user-installed option... bet they would have sold a lot of those...
You could install a set of my reversible Ice Storm ice scratchers that throw up twice the spray of the scratchers that come stock on the Polaris.
Everyone who has had this same problem had good results after installing my scratchers.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/summitseeker/media/Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/summitseeker/Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg"/></a>
Everyone who has had this same problem had good results after installing my scratchers.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/summitseeker/media/Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/summitseeker/Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Reversible2_zpsc45a9f15.jpg"/></a>
I did the $28 fix and it did help bring the temps down about 10-15 degrees in general riding so it appears to be an improvement in flow overall. Scratchers are a must for sure. I also use "water wetter" which seems to help some as well. There are other similar products to this one, they all work to break the surface tension in water so the heat transfer from the coolers to the fluid is improved. Mine will still get hot in marginal or hard packed snow but it is much improved from stock. All suggestions are here are good tho, snow on top the tunnel under your tunnel bag helps as much as snow underneath, I will often stop and pile snow on there if I am extremely hot and it will drop temps immediately until it all melts away or falls off the tunnel.
What about adding a longer tunnel cooler along with what others have suggested?
Something like this?
https://www.mtntkperformance.com/engine-performance/polaris-pro-rmk-tunnel-cooler
Something like this?
https://www.mtntkperformance.com/engine-performance/polaris-pro-rmk-tunnel-cooler
You could install a set of my reversible Ice Storm ice scratchers that throw up twice the spray of the scratchers that come stock on the Polaris.
Everyone who has had this same problem had good results after installing my scratchers.
Just what I was referring to in my post. They ARE the BEST.
I believe Ski Doo uses a 90* thermostat in their part so that would help a little, but could cause running problems as the MAP in the ECU is based off of the 120* thermostat.
Running with no thermostat isn't that great either as there is no restriction to the water flow. This restriction is needed to let the water absorb the heat from the engine. One method is to use an old hot rod trick and get a fender.body washer about the the same thickness as the thermostat flange, trim/file down the OD to the same measurement as the T-stat. The ID of the washer should be close to the ID of the T-stat. This way you get a slower flow that will absorb the heat but not have it open and close at certain temps.
Running with no thermostat isn't that great either as there is no restriction to the water flow. This restriction is needed to let the water absorb the heat from the engine. One method is to use an old hot rod trick and get a fender.body washer about the the same thickness as the thermostat flange, trim/file down the OD to the same measurement as the T-stat. The ID of the washer should be close to the ID of the T-stat. This way you get a slower flow that will absorb the heat but not have it open and close at certain temps.
When I built my '09 700 into a 777 with SLP's kit, I filled the cooling system with a product called "Engine Ice". It's around $21-$22 a liter.
Just another option to think about.
http://www.engineice.com/snow/
Just another option to think about.
http://www.engineice.com/snow/
Even better use Evans does not boil or have cavitation so it keeps the engine running better if if its hotter.... I have seen dirt bikes in the 300's with no long term damage... The bike even does not run strange... I now have it in all my machines for the most part it's been great.. Just pricey... But it never goes bad... Engine ice is good but this was for sure an upgrade...
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I had trouble with Evans. Had a lot of conversations with them over the cold temp cavitation problems. I don't recommend it in sleds unless they have changed their recipe for sleds or cold weather.
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redbull660
Well-known member
Thanks for all the good ideas, I did call terra alps and they want $220 for there kits to keep them cool, its a bit more than I want to spend. I do like the skidoo thermostat idea, anyone know the part number. I could install the thermostat, dilute the anit freeze and add wate wetter and the Ice scratchers. Now the other question, what the best way to refill these and get all the air out of the system????
I would like to drain the entire system, add water wetter and coolant/watter until I get a -20 mixture. Then add the doo thermostat while I'm in there.
I would like to drain the entire system, add water wetter and coolant/watter until I get a -20 mixture. Then add the doo thermostat while I'm in there.
I get the mixture set before I pour it in the sled. As for filling, get the front end a little higher than the rear of the tunnel. Crack open the little bleed screw on the t-stat cover. Start filling. You'll hear air coming out of the bleed screw, keep filling till coolant comes out of the bleed screw. After this, I'll tip the sled over onto the left side and it should bleed a little more air out, fill and repeat. Lastly, I'll remove the cap and start it, tip it, see if the level drops, fill it again, tip it again. This should just about all of the air out. Your first trip out riding it will get what little might be left in the system.
Just like break-in, everyone has their own method and I can't say that any of them are wrong either.
