I noticed today that my driven clutch has no float whatsoever. Has anyone else checked their 2014s? What is the proper way to determine whether I need shims on the back or washers on the front?
2014 driven clutch float
- Thread starter Laundryboy
- Start date
W
waxer
Well-known member
I found the same thing on my 14, added washer behind the bolt to get between .050" & .060"
Last edited:
I've thought about buying that alignment tool but wondered if the fix would be as simple as adding a washer to the bolt. However I guess the only way to know for sure whether it needs to be a washer on the front or a shim on the back is to purchase the alignment bar?
There are two kinds of shims:
Offset on the back of the secondary that slide over the jackshaft, two different thicknesses from the OEM (0.023 and 0.120 inches), and,
Float from the secondary bolt, behind the spacer, again two different thicknesses from the OEM (0.065 and 0.105 inches). Use a feeler gauge for float.
You must set offset before float, and alignment before offset.
The "OEM" alignment bar part number is PS-47477. Others are available on the aftermarket but you will likely do more cyphering for the LWT on the pro. The OEM/SPX bar is easiest, but not cheap. They did have some QA problems wit the 47477 a few years ago, also. It's a messed up world.
Offset on the back of the secondary that slide over the jackshaft, two different thicknesses from the OEM (0.023 and 0.120 inches), and,
Float from the secondary bolt, behind the spacer, again two different thicknesses from the OEM (0.065 and 0.105 inches). Use a feeler gauge for float.
You must set offset before float, and alignment before offset.
The "OEM" alignment bar part number is PS-47477. Others are available on the aftermarket but you will likely do more cyphering for the LWT on the pro. The OEM/SPX bar is easiest, but not cheap. They did have some QA problems wit the 47477 a few years ago, also. It's a messed up world.
Yes, IF the offset was right before. You could put the offset shim back behind the secondary, and get a washer or shim that will fit on the secondary bolt behind the spacer. Borrow, buy an alignment bar and check would be good. Poo and dealer offset and alignment setup is hit and miss. At best.
No one ever said anything about Dealers not aligning clutches. Just discussion of how to align yourself.
I bit the bullet and purchased the alignment bar. I think it will be a pretty simple process with that.
Let us know if the dealer had it right.
Will do, of course it had to be ordered and should be here next week.
Please keep in mind that the POLARIS "Gold plated" alignment bar (pictured at top) has approx .070" to .075" of "kick" built into it, which may be more than what you want.
The SLP alignment bar (middle pic) is "straight" or parallel
Bottom pic is for the old style button secondaries
There's more info in my ENGINE ALIGNMENT Thread and BEST BANG for your BUCK Thread in the INCREASING YOUR IQ, pinned at the top of the IQ section
Here's the links:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152478
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177443
I had to slot the Engine brackets on my D7 to get things correct
My 2013 PRO-R 800, also off by a lot, "twist", AND center to center nearly 1/8" short, haven't had the time to tear into it yet
Last edited:
I bought the Polaris bar, 47477. I'll keep your advice in mind, thanks!
The main reason for float is so it doesn't side load the bearing. As for its benefit in alignment' I find it questionable as it will always bind under torsion and not move on the shaft....so if it has too much float it may bind out of alignment as much as in alignment. I just align the clutches and add washers to the retainer bolt to have just a c-hair or float. JMO-
When I picked up my 14 Pro, I asked about alignment and float.....they said they are laser aligned at the factory and they are told not to adjust.....load of BS? Don't know.
I just checked my float and I can hardly stuff a .011 feeler gauge in there.....
Had a 12, never checked alignment or float and clutching was great 1300 miles on the first belt and only changed for maintenance.
Not sure what the heck to do.....
I just checked my float and I can hardly stuff a .011 feeler gauge in there.....
Had a 12, never checked alignment or float and clutching was great 1300 miles on the first belt and only changed for maintenance.
Not sure what the heck to do.....
Sounds like a used car salesman's line
All kiddin' aside, unless you REALLY REALLY REALLY trust your mechanic, spend the $ 30 or so for the SLP alignment bar, slap it on your sled, and see for yourself, and make your own decision.
Without an alignment bar, you can check the Center to center by simply removing BOTH clutches,
BUTT an accurate metal 12" ruler up against the jack-shaft, and look for 11.00" EXACT at the crank center
(11.5" center to center, minus 1/2" for radius of 1" jack-shaft = 11.00")
SLP says, "We see the alignment off on ALL brands of sleds"
I'll try to get some pics posted on my 2013 PRO-R 800, as mentioned earlier, BOTH alignment AND center to center off considerably
Last edited:
Winter brew is absolutely correct on the jack shaft side loading on a poo. Whether you float to spec or just float a few thou, do not run them tight.
As a long-term doo rider, wrenching occasionally as an amateur on someone's poo, including that poo jack shaft bearing, I shook my head how doos would run literally forever with a non-serviceable bearing and a secondary jammed up tight against them, while poos would fail even when they offered a greaseable bearing and with the secondary floated. This isn't so much a poo bash, just an observation, they do fail.
After being compelled to float my doo secondarys just because, I did notice how much they would float on the shaft with the hood off, even on the snow. They may bind some, but they sure do move on the shaft if they are allowed. I vote for float.
As a long-term doo rider, wrenching occasionally as an amateur on someone's poo, including that poo jack shaft bearing, I shook my head how doos would run literally forever with a non-serviceable bearing and a secondary jammed up tight against them, while poos would fail even when they offered a greaseable bearing and with the secondary floated. This isn't so much a poo bash, just an observation, they do fail.
After being compelled to float my doo secondarys just because, I did notice how much they would float on the shaft with the hood off, even on the snow. They may bind some, but they sure do move on the shaft if they are allowed. I vote for float.
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
I asked about if they check the clutching as well and they said its not on the assembly sheet so they dont do it.
Quick follow-up on my secondary float (or lack thereof)....
Went to the dealer, got the Polaris alignment tool, set it on my 14.
Service Manual Spec says the front part of the 'secondary part' of the alignment bar should touch (or within .025"), and the rear portion should be within 0 - .060" from the alignment bar.
Mine was .13" gap at the front and .163" gap at the rear......with virtually no float.
My plan is to add the .12 washer BEHIND the secondary to get my alignment out to where it should be. Then add a .065 float washer to the bolt.....this should give me about .080 float.
Sound right to you guys??
Went to the dealer, got the Polaris alignment tool, set it on my 14.
Service Manual Spec says the front part of the 'secondary part' of the alignment bar should touch (or within .025"), and the rear portion should be within 0 - .060" from the alignment bar.
Mine was .13" gap at the front and .163" gap at the rear......with virtually no float.
My plan is to add the .12 washer BEHIND the secondary to get my alignment out to where it should be. Then add a .065 float washer to the bolt.....this should give me about .080 float.
Sound right to you guys??
D
Drewd
Well-known member
I'm very new to CVT clutches and my only experience with a CVT clutch is on my Yammie ATV where I shimmed the primary to reduce gearing for better slow speed atving.
Can someone explain "float" and the purpose of having float on the secondary drive? Please don't be too harsh. I'm pretty mechanically inclined (rebuilt several engines, tranny's in cars, a car gear head) but CVTs are foreign to me.
Thanks in advance!
Drew
Can someone explain "float" and the purpose of having float on the secondary drive? Please don't be too harsh. I'm pretty mechanically inclined (rebuilt several engines, tranny's in cars, a car gear head) but CVTs are foreign to me.
Thanks in advance!
Drew
Similar threads
