2013 Pro...Is it the sled you wanted?
- Thread starter Randman
- Start date
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sledneck_03
Well-known member
yah i know.... ****ing do some powder coating polaris. it may add weight but whooo cares, anodize your rails and spindles and powder coat your tunnel so much less snow build up. CRAZY how iced up my sled is after a week in the hills when i put it in the garage.
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rmscustom
Well-known member
Ebay, autovinylsolutions.com.
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cjfox
Well-known member
coming from a M8 this sled is night and day pulling on the skis to get it out of a hole, they way it climbs up on the snow and dosnt trinch, i noticed in the past even the draggons popped up on the snow better than the M's, this year all i have riddin in is bottomless powder and it shocks me everytime i do get stuck i little pull wiggle here and its out nothing like the M8, so weight, approach angle minus the huge M8 belly pan to the poo one. i think it is easier to get out unstuck, but yea there are still those times where it take 3 ppl and a hour of digging but those times also come with a great story,"Hell Yea i Almost pulled that Sh!t off"
It is nice to hear some positive responses for once. If you think riding the pro is awesome with stock HP, you really need to try one with a 910 in it. I loved my turbo, but these things with some decent HP will satisfy 90% of the people who ride them. There is always those HP junkies who like to pull big chutes and straight climbs, but that is not me.
Cudos to Polaris for stepping the mountain segment up a notch, and to the other manufacturers for tying to keep up.
Cudos to Polaris for stepping the mountain segment up a notch, and to the other manufacturers for tying to keep up.
as far as gettin unstuck, lol, I stuck mine yesterday (turbo 11) on a crazy uphill between trees, to the dirt...cleared track out, packed it down stuck my buddy Adam on it(great rider) i tugged the ski,pinned it,( yeah we needed the 10 lbs of boost ) bam, out going uphill...NFW we could, have ever done this on my mod sled or pretty much any other....just a really nice sled to get unstuck...lmao if there if such a thing.
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Going West
Well-known member
I guess I'm never usually stuck where its just a matter of pulling it around, there is usually some trees or rock or a giant creek hole in the way lol. I really wish Poo could figure out how to make there sleds back up like a Doo, it really makes for a lot less work sometimes.
PS. Any sled with 10 psi and someone to tug on the ski is usually pretty easy to get out. lol
PS. Any sled with 10 psi and someone to tug on the ski is usually pretty easy to get out. lol
Love the sled. went with the 163 this year and I'm really happy with it. The thing just claws its way up the hill and surprises me with how far it will make it before gravity catches up with it. Rode with a couple pro turbos and I'm very satisfied with my sled, having my low end power for tree riding and more technical situations. It for sure has enough power for me to satisfy my need to climb. They really built a hell of a sled. Really impressed with how well it works stock, next to the same sled with the SLP exhaust setup, and one with a turbo. Rode with a couple new cats. They were alright, actually got to try one briefly. Pretty sure the pros still have them beat though. The cat 1100 turbos seem to be a pretty good sled if you can handle the weight. Pretty impressed after seeing a couple of them. So far, only 95 miles on the sled after one trip to Cooke, no driveshaft issue. Ran great, no quickdrive issues. The thing really hauls for a stock sled.
Just replaced my drive belt at 440 also. No scarring at all but the belt was obviously starting to come undone? What is that about? For 180 bucks, these belts that are not misused should last a helluvalot longer than 400ish miles! I just came off an APEX and in 2500 miles not ONCE did I replace a belt. Just wonderin...
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lcoop
Member
I'm luvin this sled. 300 miles now and I'm used to it. I've only owned m series then a pro climb last year. All I can say is this sled inspires to go into nasty tight steep treed areas that the pro climb was really scary to ride in. Am I concerned with reliability and Warrenty compared to cat? Heck ya I am, but the trade off to ride the best platform seams worth it too me. The way this thing hold a line is amazing. The way it gets up on the snow is no comparison to a cat. It seams like it likes to grunt around. You never need to be on the throttle unless you are about to get stuck then it pops on top again. Really happy with my purchase. Hopefully I don't change my mind when it starts to get some higher miles.
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winter
Well-known member
The Best
We bought a 2013 800 and 600 Pro. They are the best sleds I have ridden.
I was building the IQRs then the XPs these where 20-25k custom sleds.
The Pro feels like the sleds I was building but are half the cost.
My wife, after two days on the 600 looks like a pro, this is the first itme she has felt comfortable riding with me in the deep snow through the tight trees.
Good Job Polaris.
We are selling the 800 163 Pro (Retro) or trading it for another 2013 600 Pro.
My son can ride the 600 easily but the 800 163 is too much for him.
If anyone close to Bend Oregon is in the market for a 163 800 Pro (Retro)
50 miles on it, perfect condition, PM Me, or if you have a new 600 pro to trade, I am in the market.
We bought a 2013 800 and 600 Pro. They are the best sleds I have ridden.
I was building the IQRs then the XPs these where 20-25k custom sleds.
The Pro feels like the sleds I was building but are half the cost.
My wife, after two days on the 600 looks like a pro, this is the first itme she has felt comfortable riding with me in the deep snow through the tight trees.
Good Job Polaris.
We are selling the 800 163 Pro (Retro) or trading it for another 2013 600 Pro.
My son can ride the 600 easily but the 800 163 is too much for him.
If anyone close to Bend Oregon is in the market for a 163 800 Pro (Retro)
50 miles on it, perfect condition, PM Me, or if you have a new 600 pro to trade, I am in the market.
Here's my review so far:
2013 Pro 800 163" - only performance mod to date is just triple rate springs from Raptor, and RKT clamps.
So far this is the best sled i've ever ridden. It sidehills like a dream, pops up on the snow super easy, is really snappy powerwise, and never seems to require full throttle (like others have said). Upon full throttle it pulls nicely, track speed is about 39 to 40mph. Wish it was a bit higher, but this thing will climb things my Doo never would. Clutching seems decent too. Great sled pretty much out of the box.
I'm coming off a 09 163" XP that was a pretty good sled (super reliable actually) but i never fell in love with it. I bought it new and rode it for 3 seasons and never felt like was in full control - it bucked me off a number of times and put me in some tough spots/crashes. Within an hour of riding my Pro the deep stuff I was pulling off lines with ease that my Doo wouldn't allow me. Sure i wish it the 164HP ETEC motor, and i wish i could trust its reliability more - BUT- WOW does the sled straight performer.
The only things i'd like to address are these:
1. It pushes pretty bad on the trail. I think the straight rails were a mistake.
2. Side hilling to the right takes more muscle and it isn't a predictable as the left side. Any thoughts?
3. I'm still bottoming a lot. I think the shocks are pretty weak or I need to loose even more weight!
2013 Pro 800 163" - only performance mod to date is just triple rate springs from Raptor, and RKT clamps.
So far this is the best sled i've ever ridden. It sidehills like a dream, pops up on the snow super easy, is really snappy powerwise, and never seems to require full throttle (like others have said). Upon full throttle it pulls nicely, track speed is about 39 to 40mph. Wish it was a bit higher, but this thing will climb things my Doo never would. Clutching seems decent too. Great sled pretty much out of the box.
I'm coming off a 09 163" XP that was a pretty good sled (super reliable actually) but i never fell in love with it. I bought it new and rode it for 3 seasons and never felt like was in full control - it bucked me off a number of times and put me in some tough spots/crashes. Within an hour of riding my Pro the deep stuff I was pulling off lines with ease that my Doo wouldn't allow me. Sure i wish it the 164HP ETEC motor, and i wish i could trust its reliability more - BUT- WOW does the sled straight performer.
The only things i'd like to address are these:
1. It pushes pretty bad on the trail. I think the straight rails were a mistake.
2. Side hilling to the right takes more muscle and it isn't a predictable as the left side. Any thoughts?
3. I'm still bottoming a lot. I think the shocks are pretty weak or I need to loose even more weight!
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geo
Well-known member
68
1- out in the field, one turn at a time more RTS preload, might help a bit with 3
2- in the shop, disconnect the swaybar, rock back and forth to pick up a ski, if right ski is easier to lift add one turn to left ski and take one turn off right ski, continue 'til equal effort to lift either ski, reconnect sway bar, anyfurther adjustments in field should be equal turns on both skis, might help
3- try to ride with constant throttle or accel. in the whoops, throttle helps this set-up from bottoming, if you go into a hole with no throttle you will always bottom due to the very light slowspeed dampening that makes this thing work like it does in soft snow, might help.
1- out in the field, one turn at a time more RTS preload, might help a bit with 3
2- in the shop, disconnect the swaybar, rock back and forth to pick up a ski, if right ski is easier to lift add one turn to left ski and take one turn off right ski, continue 'til equal effort to lift either ski, reconnect sway bar, anyfurther adjustments in field should be equal turns on both skis, might help
3- try to ride with constant throttle or accel. in the whoops, throttle helps this set-up from bottoming, if you go into a hole with no throttle you will always bottom due to the very light slowspeed dampening that makes this thing work like it does in soft snow, might help.
Geo, see my comments below in BOLD:
1- out in the field, one turn at a time more RTS preload, might help a bit with 3. Makes sense. At what point will i get coil bind though on the Raptor springs. I'm at 9.75" of installed spring height, don't know how much for is left. May have to go to the big boy spring? I can see this helping in the "pushing" department, but it already doesn't transfer at ALL, so this will likely make it transfer even less i'd think. Maybe i should add a little FTS and RTS pre-load?
2- in the shop, disconnect the swaybar, rock back and forth to pick up a ski, if right ski is easier to lift add one turn to left ski and take one turn off right ski, continue 'til equal effort to lift either ski, reconnect sway bar, anyfurther adjustments in field should be equal turns on both skis, might help. Good idea. i'll try this tonight.
3- try to ride with constant throttle or accel. in the whoops, throttle helps this set-up from bottoming, if you go into a hole with no throttle you will always bottom due to the very light slowspeed dampening that makes this thing work like it does in soft snow, might help. This also makes sense, but is concerning at the same time as i planned to go with new raptor shocks. Will the Raptors cause me to loose some deep snow performance? I wonder if i should keep the factory springs in the skid and just use the triple rate springs on the skis?
1- out in the field, one turn at a time more RTS preload, might help a bit with 3. Makes sense. At what point will i get coil bind though on the Raptor springs. I'm at 9.75" of installed spring height, don't know how much for is left. May have to go to the big boy spring? I can see this helping in the "pushing" department, but it already doesn't transfer at ALL, so this will likely make it transfer even less i'd think. Maybe i should add a little FTS and RTS pre-load?
2- in the shop, disconnect the swaybar, rock back and forth to pick up a ski, if right ski is easier to lift add one turn to left ski and take one turn off right ski, continue 'til equal effort to lift either ski, reconnect sway bar, anyfurther adjustments in field should be equal turns on both skis, might help. Good idea. i'll try this tonight.
3- try to ride with constant throttle or accel. in the whoops, throttle helps this set-up from bottoming, if you go into a hole with no throttle you will always bottom due to the very light slowspeed dampening that makes this thing work like it does in soft snow, might help. This also makes sense, but is concerning at the same time as i planned to go with new raptor shocks. Will the Raptors cause me to loose some deep snow performance? I wonder if i should keep the factory springs in the skid and just use the triple rate springs on the skis?
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autowrench
Member
Short answer, YES! Unlike my XP, it feels as light as it really is. 155 miles so far. Going to test in in deep stuff tomorrow. Might be hard to remove the grin from my face.
68...Good point on the sidehill to the right. Towards the end of the day after some hard riding & a stuck or ten, it sure seems like the left side is easier to sidehill than the right. I am going to try the shop floor exercise that GEO suggested.
Anyone experience DET/Limp mode after riding hard with the non-Eth setting? (Using 92 Non-Eth.)
I have my oil pump 4 turns in from the stock setting and am running 37/40-1 ratio. Is the added oil causing the DET? The sled is fine after it DET's & I switch to the Eth setting...???
Thanks to the Snowester's for all of the great info & replys!
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geo
Well-known member
68
I'm still stock (155) and lovin' it so I don't have answers to your questions.
I will say that to me push on the front (skis not grabbing, front transfer) and no rear transfer both point to the RTS spring on the Holz type skid. You could stiffen the front springs but I wouldn't like to go that way with this light package and doesn't help the rear transfer.
Did you give any time to the stock springs? If you have a progressive RTS spring cranked up to get ride hieght and front transfer you may be too stiff on the finish to allow any travel of the rear sissor. It would feel stiff and flat.
This would leave you riding primarily in the middle few inches of rear sissor travel and sounds like what you are saying.
I can see using a dual rate spring on the FTS because that is how Holz designed it many years ago but the rear sissor has to stroke through it,s travel for the sled to feel lively.
Just thoughts not answers.
I'm still stock (155) and lovin' it so I don't have answers to your questions.
I will say that to me push on the front (skis not grabbing, front transfer) and no rear transfer both point to the RTS spring on the Holz type skid. You could stiffen the front springs but I wouldn't like to go that way with this light package and doesn't help the rear transfer.
Did you give any time to the stock springs? If you have a progressive RTS spring cranked up to get ride hieght and front transfer you may be too stiff on the finish to allow any travel of the rear sissor. It would feel stiff and flat.
This would leave you riding primarily in the middle few inches of rear sissor travel and sounds like what you are saying.
I can see using a dual rate spring on the FTS because that is how Holz designed it many years ago but the rear sissor has to stroke through it,s travel for the sled to feel lively.
Just thoughts not answers.
I surpassed the 8 to 9 hour mark (got to 10.6) yesterday and am at 194 miles.
Yesterday I is the first day I saw the tach hit above 8200. In fact it hit 8400 and held 8250 and 8300 on the roads (can't quite get a good full load on a hill yet. Snow isn't deep enough).
It's passed throught he break-in chip. It's rockin!!!!
Yesterday I is the first day I saw the tach hit above 8200. In fact it hit 8400 and held 8250 and 8300 on the roads (can't quite get a good full load on a hill yet. Snow isn't deep enough).
It's passed throught he break-in chip. It's rockin!!!!
