Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2013 Pro 800 gremlins, Help!

I'm encountering a strange issue with my 2013 pro 800 and am looking for any help or advice from infinite wisdom of veteran sled necks on this forum. It's a saga so to anyone who's reading this I thank you in advance!

Just a lil backstory: a few seasons ago I bought a 2013 pro 800 from a kid who (I now know from the wear on the sled, but didn't know at the time) ran the ever lovin piss outta it. It had 1900 miles on it. The sled ran great for a season and then it stuffed a piston and marred the cylinder.

The next season I paid my small engine guy (I am a novice mechanic) to install a complete new top end kit from Indy specialty in it (jugs, pistons, rings, etc). I ran that for a season with no issues although it was a terrible snow year soI only got it out a few times.

Fast forward to this season: First ride of the year I get a half mile down the trail and it dies on me and is seized up, I can't pull the start cord. I take the plugs out and give it three pulls, put em back and it's starts up but runs like ****. I turn around and take it straight to my mechanic. He tells me one of the power valves was sucking air leaning out one cylinder and starting to burn down the piston so he replaces the power valve, "cleans up" the cylinder and puts in a set of new pistons.

Second ride of the season I get a couple miles down the trail and it does the exact same thing. Mind you I'm not givin er I'm just trail riding. Dies, seizes up, can't pull starter cord, I remove plug and give it a few pulls, put em back, it runs like ****, this time i towed it home cuz i didn't want to risk further damage and return it to my mechanic. This time he tells me he took everything apart and everything looked good, cylinders looked good, etc, with the exception of the reeds being super dirty. So he cleaned them out and put everything back together. Maybe it's worth noting here that my other buddy who's a sled mechanic told me that he's never cleaned reeds, "they're either good or bad" he said.

Third ride of the season, I start her up and she's running like a top, sounds amazing, feels amazing, then same thing: I only got a quarter mile down the trail this time and she dies, seizes up, can't pull starter cord, pull the plugs, fires up with my thumb on the throttle, runs terrible, limp it back home.

So thats the long of the short. Does anybody have any insight into what could be causing this? My mechanic told me the temp sensor was accurate when he tested it. I'm running polaris gold oil. My buddy thought that it kinda seemed like it was hydrolocking but said that's more likely to happen when it's not running. I trust my mechanic, he used to work for Polaris and then started his own shop, but I can tell he's confused by this too. Any insight is greatly appreciated!
 
Was the oil pump ever cranked up? Screw should be almost flush with the jam nut.
The oil cap should have a tiny hole drilled in the bottom side also so the tank can breathe. Those caps don’t always vent properly.
 
Was the oil pump ever cranked up? Screw should be almost flush with the jam nut.
The oil cap should have a tiny hole drilled in the bottom side also so the tank can breathe. Those caps don’t always vent properly.
I don't know if the oil pump was ever turned up, should or shouldn't it be? If the oil cap wasn't venting proper it would restrict oil right?
 
You should turn the oil screw in like posted above and if the oil cap isn’t venting; it’ll put air bubbles in the oil supply line. So it is importantly to drill a hole in the oil cap or get a doo oil cap from an XM.
Also, confirm the oil lines off the pump are hooked up to the correct port.
I had a 2014 Assault where the mag side cylinder and oil pump gear were swapped and costed me a crank and top end within 100 miles.
 
Are you pulling the plugs because it feels like it’s hydro locked? This seems more than just oil cap. Is it one particular cylinder that is going down? Did it idle fine each time? What was the compression on the cylinders after you brought it back in?
 
Premium Features



Back
Top