I was riding in pretty deep snow wirh my new to me bike for about an hour and all of a sudden I realize no power is going to the track. Jumped off the bike and didn't smell or notice anything outwardly wrong. Engine was running great, but when in gear you would rev it and nothing would happen unless you had it at like 10k rpm and then it would only move very little. Little info I'm a big guy, also there was about 15-18" of fresh. It has a rekluse core exp 3.0 clutch on it. There was no clutch smell or fade, It was an instant change
2013 ktm 450sxf with timbersled lt won't go rekluse core exp
- Thread starter Andrewcoutavas
- Start date
Are you running the Slaven's Racing 280 Belleville washer and heavy wedges in your 3.0?
Did you play around with the Allen key adjustment on your clutch slave? Even a quarter turn makes a difference with clutch engagement.
Did you play around with the Allen key adjustment on your clutch slave? Even a quarter turn makes a difference with clutch engagement.
I don't believe so I just bought the bike, does that make a pretty considerable difference in the overall toughness of the clutch?
Did you install the clutch or did it come with the bike used? You really need to make sure that the free play is set right like they said ... this will ruin you clutch in a hirry the next thing is to set it to high engagement so that it locks up the clutch and does not slip. The 3.0 should have a certain color to accomplish this. I would call Rekluse and get the recommended settings they are a great help... the last thing is to make sure it is bled correctly. No big bubbles ect... loose lines.... leakes
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PalousePoo
Well-known member
Wondering who sold you a bike with a recluse and didn't go over how to keep it adjusted? A recluse is nice but its also one more thing to keep maintained. You'll need to research how to adj it so you can keep watch on it. I'm often adjusting the one on my YZ, that my son rides, and some days I want to hurl it at a tree like a ninja throwing star!!!
Well I didn't have a clutch lever on it, so I'm going to put one on and as you can see the friction plate is toast but that might be from towing my friend on his turbo pro out of the back country with my bike or it might just be from me being fat. Either way getting a new set of plates isn't the worst case scenario.
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I guess every day u learn something thanks for all the help
Yes the towing the rmk would have been good info
that is the first time I have seen that.. hopefully you can get all the metal out of your bike... while your in there get the stronger Bellville washer... also check the rubber dampers for play... if they are worn you will toast your clutch fast... I have to replace mine every 70 or so hours.
that is the first time I have seen that.. hopefully you can get all the metal out of your bike... while your in there get the stronger Bellville washer... also check the rubber dampers for play... if they are worn you will toast your clutch fast... I have to replace mine every 70 or so hours.Can I get new dampers from rekluse u think?
Everything these guys said is correct, check your free play every ride and even during the day. The 280 spring is necessary and I think it's Barnett has a spring rated near 300. Check your clutch pack height to be sure your in spec. I change the dampners every 20 hours, there cheap and can cause issues. Also look at your engine oil some synthetics promote slippage. I run rotella as gear oil in my 2 strokes and 350 race bikes. And change it often, like every ride.
Rotella
TillTheEnd, which Rotella do you use? My group uses blue jug 5-40
TillTheEnd, which Rotella do you use? My group uses blue jug 5-40
I run the non synthetic year round and change it often. The synthetics tend to promote slippage in the rekluse. But I only run a 300 2 stroke on the snow.