2013 CRF450 water in clutch side oil
- Thread starter Adobe-Al
- Start date
A
Adobe-Al
Well-known member
I do get some fuel on the opposite oil side of the case.
Not sure if it is coolant, I only ride the bike in snow. Im not seeing any loss in coolant volume.
The tube is now routed down, so water would have to travel up hill. If I put it under the seat it seems like the water could travel down hill.
Will the vent tube suck water in?
Ran a 2012 CRF 450 for two years. Every ride, clutch oil would come out milky/contaminated with water. Vent tube on mine was plugged from the factory so I knew water wasn't getting in there, but every ride I would have to remove that plug and let a little water out.
Ran mine long enough, for sure wasn't coolant.
All I could ever figure was that on the Honda with the split oil system, the clutch side runs cold enough you get alot of condensation in the case?
Might want to try just keeping engine temps up. Engine jacket? Thermobob?
Edit: I had no trouble from this issue, but I did change the oil every ride.
Ran mine long enough, for sure wasn't coolant.
All I could ever figure was that on the Honda with the split oil system, the clutch side runs cold enough you get alot of condensation in the case?
Might want to try just keeping engine temps up. Engine jacket? Thermobob?
Edit: I had no trouble from this issue, but I did change the oil every ride.
My experience with a 2008 CRF 450X last year;
Thermobob.
PST engine jacket but we did not run the cold weather panel. The bike does have a larger Acerbis fuel tank.
Ran the stock, foam air filter.
Neither the engine nor the clutch side made or lost any oil. We did not even check the levels once all last season as we figured it was a Honda and as the levels were both good at the start of the season, at the end, when I had gone and checked before changing the oils, the levels were exactly where they needed to be.
Thermobob.
PST engine jacket but we did not run the cold weather panel. The bike does have a larger Acerbis fuel tank.
Ran the stock, foam air filter.
Neither the engine nor the clutch side made or lost any oil. We did not even check the levels once all last season as we figured it was a Honda and as the levels were both good at the start of the season, at the end, when I had gone and checked before changing the oils, the levels were exactly where they needed to be.
So you ran the same oil for an entire snowbike season?!
Note to self...no used bikes from Ben. Ha.
Ha! Oil came out of both sides looking like it was just put in too.
Like not a drop had been added nor a drop taken away.
Honda.
Then, the OP has an issue with something contaminating his clutch oil.
Like not a drop had been added nor a drop taken away.
Honda.
Then, the OP has an issue with something contaminating his clutch oil.
This is probably the worst attempt at bike maintenance I’ve heard of.
You seriously didn’t change the oil in a 4s engine in how many rides?
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
Same experience on a CRF450R last year. Did have engine jacket and thermostat....helped, but didn't solve. They just seem to run too cold / rich. Bike worked great, just needed to stay on top of the oil. I think the real fix might be a fuel controller...?
Oh man, you are right. I think.
In the history, the annals of snowbiking maintenance, if you will, it is admittedly the worst attempt at bike maintenance you will have ever read of on the internet. All I can offer is a sorry in an attempt to patch up your hurt feelz.
The 2008 Honda CRF 450X engine is ok and doing well. I have not sent a blood(engine oil)sample to be checked yet but as soon as I get around to it, I'll think about it so I can find out how much boron and how many PPM in iron, and copper might have gotten scrubbed off the interior parts of the motor from the lack of oil changing in the sump in at least, wow, 15 or 26.99999 rides last season.
Seriously.
The engine is running awesome.
Poor OP that has the engine oil increase. I hope that the problem can be tracked down and eliminated/fixed as that is no-bueno.
A
Adobe-Al
Well-known member
I have a PR2 fuel controller on it, that I used on my last ride last year. I will report how it works. If Colorado gets more snow! I'm sure the controller will only help the fuel in the oil not the water.
Com on now patawan play nice it is christmasy after all.
I never did anything on my WR either and had no problem --
However the YZ with thermo bob and snow shield works much better.
It can be as little as a bad O-ring and frozen up vent line -- or hot cold cycles that frost up the interior of the gearbox. I have a heated 5th wheel and my vents were well taken care of.
Changing oil in the gearbox at the same time as the engine may just be a good way to go. I am not religious about it, but usually every 3-4 rides I drop the oil and every second or 3rd oil change I do a filter as well. I usually have no fuel or water contamination -- if I did I would change it more often. And figure out why it gets contaminated. The easiest way to keep the oil from being contaminated is 5th gear wide ope runs back on the hard pack trail, that is where the temps really come up and evaporate gas and water contamination. I just happen to like going fast --- most of our riding areas have a 5 mile + trail in to go to them that usually takes care of it.
Great advice oh exalted Jedi Master of all that is snowbiking.
The best part is that if either side of the oil sumps did not lose or gain a drop of oil, after a season, did the oil break down from what had to be way-less than 100 hours or 1,000 miles and chances are also great that the oil, if the blood were tested, would probably have come back in good shape.
Some like changing the blood often. Some don't really adhere to strict regiments on oil changing like my brother in law. If I didn't do it, it probably would not get done at all and he'd keep running it.
