Ok so I basically blew up my motor from detonation which I caused by leaning it out to much with turbo control box. Atleast this what I think happened. Now I get new pistons and get ready to install then go to slide the wrist pin in the connecting rod and it won't go through the hole so I just try to slide the wrist pin into needle bearing and still wont go unless forced and even at that gets stuck half way in the hole. Thinking that it is bad needle bearings I remove needle bearings from a new short block that I got and they won't work either. Has anyone ever had this happen? The bore on connecting rod is definitley smaller on my original motor. I just can't figure out how it even ran the 30 Miles that I put on it. The only way to get the pistons on would be to use a puller and then the bearings are pretty much binding.
2013 Blown motor.
- Thread starter bmanke
- Start date
They won't just slide in. It's been years since I've done it. Unless things have changed, and I never had a puller, i used to heat the piston and cool the pin and it would go right in. I'm sure that there is a more adult way to go.
On my 11 they slid right in
type 1 vs type 2 cranks
the rods have different numbers
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oe...b8490e4a/engine-piston-crankshaft-all-options
the rods have different numbers
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oe...b8490e4a/engine-piston-crankshaft-all-options
S
Smoken Ford
New member
I just had my 12 apart and installed new pistons while installing a SLP stage 4 kit, and the wrist pins slid right in without much trouble at all.
Ok if they are different then the needle bearings would also have different numbers. And then the wrist pin and pistons would also have different numbers. They don't also both motors are 2013. Usually if a motor blows you might need to use puller to remove wrist pins. But on all piston installs that I have done they always slide through connecting rod with out any force just slight drag on piston.
I also think this listing should have been under pro not moved to turbo. Has nothing to do with turbo.
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Its the needle bearing that it is binding on. If I try just piston slides right in.
did you look at the pto face and see if the numbers match? take your caliper and measure the rod ids.
No didn't look at the numbers. I'm sure they are different rods but the piston end should be same diameter. They are different by about 1 thousandths as best that I can tell.
Josh, that is a defromed small end from excessive viloent deto. the rods are now useless and must be replaced. NO hone will fix it and you do NOT want to try to run it that way.
Back in the old days we did that every time we detoed on a small turbo engine. the heat is so high and the det so violent it deforms the rod end and ruins it.
Please do not try to run it as the tight deformed end will build heat quickly and cause more damage..
sorry to see this happen to a good guy but boost has ways of teaching us lessons..
Gus
Back in the old days we did that every time we detoed on a small turbo engine. the heat is so high and the det so violent it deforms the rod end and ruins it.
Please do not try to run it as the tight deformed end will build heat quickly and cause more damage..
sorry to see this happen to a good guy but boost has ways of teaching us lessons..
Gus
to hear that.I have detonated motors before never seen this. I have been running turbos since 1998. It actually looks like the rod end is to small not hammered out.
It won't look hammered. It will be just out of round. Only way to tell is to measure it. Like was said rods are done.
the wristpin rollers make dents in the rod surface. when you roll the wristpin in the bearing IN the rod you will fell the flats
Gus
Gus
OVS 10.5lbs 4 gallons Race 110 /1 gallon premium. About 8000 ft. Had run it at 14lbs only turning 7600rpm so lightend weights then it over revved so dropped to 10.5. Was just trying to figure out a stumble when it went down. First thought I had just blown a head gasket oring.
Can't hardly get wrist pin back in it. But yes I do feel the dents once I do get it in there
sorry to hear that, with each little dent also comes a small bulge up on each side of the dent, which tightens the fit as you feel now trying to get that damn pin and bearing IN..
Gus
Gus
common deal as well in our mercury 2.5 dragboat motors...but there at one time they offered a oversize bearing, so you could hone the rod end round and replace the bearing, a one time deal but better than nothing.
Oh another way we used to fix this in the boat deals was to bore the little rod end oversize and press in a hardened tool steel insert, then finish hone back to standard...real pita but when your running mercury F1 rods you do whats needed to keep from buying new rods $$$
Oh another way we used to fix this in the boat deals was to bore the little rod end oversize and press in a hardened tool steel insert, then finish hone back to standard...real pita but when your running mercury F1 rods you do whats needed to keep from buying new rods $$$
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