2013 800 check up results

[Carlos Randolph]

Just cleaned the power valves, and took a peek down into the bore, and compression check (1700 trouble free miles). The mag side piston has one hair line scuff line below the bottom ring. Rings look like new, no flake. Top of piston has a nice brown color. PTO piston shows no scuff at all, rings and piston top same as mag. 5 pulls at WOT 120psi on both sides on a warm, not hot motor. Valves had about 6-700miles on them, from last cleaning, and were pretty gummy/coked. Had been running VES oil, or AMSOIL. Plugs
were a little dark, and ill swap them out. Ran the 9eix with great results, seem to get less build up on them IMHO.

Have run the factory/dealer oil setting just In case for warranty, and premix 4oz of oil in every tank. The factory oil setting I at 68-70:1 by my rough figures.

I also with out fail, let the sled warm to 100deg or better, then go. Have ridden it hard, and at times have almost expected something to break/burn down, as that has been my past result. Shame that I am conditioned to that mentality$$$.

Based on my findings, I am going to keep adding the oil. So far so good

I am considering doing the BMP airbox mod, for the claimed 3-4 free HP. Any one else try this? If so did you go all in and get the PC 5 and add some fuel?

I am a Doo convert, after the 08XP debacle. Now on my second pro 800.....pull the rope and ride, is way better than....I hope it skidon't break again. They are a nice piece.

 

[granto]

What kind of oil are you mixing in the tank?

 

[The Fourth Wolf]

Turn your oiler up. 2.5 to 3 full turns should get you to 40:1

There's a thread on it with pics and crystal clear how-to. Adding oil to the gas has no effect on crank/bearings in the Pro CFI-2 motor.

 

[OuraySledder]

1700 miles on stock pistons in this engine is living on borrowed time by most accounts. Even IF mine tests good at 1500 miles those slugs are coming out. They are WAY cheaper than what you will need to fix if one breaks and takes out the cases.

4 oz of oil per tank isn't doing anything. I have a few gallons of Polaris blue dino oil that I am going to burn in this sled. I am running about ~16 oz per tank, shooting for about 80:1 pre-mix.

I understand that none of this gets to the bottom end but the problem with these motors is pistons. The bottom end gets ruined when a skirt breaks. I am not reading stories of bottom end bearings going out. I don't think that is where the problem is. I very well may turn up the oiler as well. Getting it to 40 or 50:1 is probably good preventative maint. It certainly can not hurt.

 

[Tride]

My first pro--oil question

So I'm back to Polaris after an XP also, and here's what I don't get--if there is no gas/oil mix going to the crank but instead there's a dedicated oil injector, why is the crank not floating in oil? I mean, if there's no mixing, the oil can't go anywhere, right?

(Plus, I though crankcase pressurization was the key to 2t HP?)

 

[Carlos Randolph]

Engine

Granto, I actually just use the polaris ves oil, out of a small container I keep in the under seat bag. little 5oz bottle.

As far as turning up the oiler, I am not messing with the oiler adj. for the simple reason that I am not giving the dealer/polaris/warranty company one reason under my control, to turn down a claim. Just don't want that fight. The sled will be gone after this season, and the warranty is out. My whole situation with my old 08 Xp, has taught me plenty in this area..... plenty. You can say what ever about this dealer and that one saying it's ok to tinker with the hard parts and still have the warranty. I just don't trust them, or the warranty company.

I realize that the 4-5oz of oil I am adding into the tank does not seem like much. I am not using any real guage of any sort to figure ratio in the tank, but just simply dump 4-5oz of oil in every time I add fuel. Weather thats 5 gallons or 10, It doesn't matter. Just for a little splash on the cylinder walls from the fuel side. Minor as it may be, it to me offers something.

Based on the color of the plugs, the sides of the pistions, the coke on the valves, the wash on top of the pistions, the non flaking rings, and the luke warm engine 120psi comp. The motor is still really healthy IMHO. Just trying to show that the 13-14 motors might have worked out some of the bugs, and they all don't just grenade after 1000miles. I have been at this game for a long time, and know what "good" looks and feels like. I would have no problem puting new pistons in it, if it was not under warranty, or broken. At that point though, then what would be the point of buying a new sled with 2 year warranty. Could have just bought a used one or kept my out of warranty 11, and spent "x" amount on a fix kit even though it ran fine.

 

[Kraven]

2013 800

2013 PRO-R 800,
2,000 miles last season, pull the rope & go

Still the original plugs, changed belt on the last trip, but wasn't really necessary

Minor T.P.S. issue was the only problem all season

Oil pump adjuster turned in approx (5) turns BY THE DEALER, said it took (2) turns just to get it to factory spec. Adjuster now is flush with jam nut, haven't checked fuel/oil ratio since

Still runnin' the RICHER fuel map (ETHANOL mode)

Will do a compression check AND leak down test soon and report back

*********************************************************

In February 2013 we flew out to West Yellowstone & rented from Hi-Mark in town

They have (9) 2013 800's in their rental fleet
3,000+ miles on all of 'em and the mechanic said NO PROBLEMS with the engines what-so-ever, NOT adding pre-mix oil, not sure about oil adjustment, if turned up or not, (3) drive-shafts under the bench with speedo ends sheered off.

They also had about (12) 2012 800's still in their rental fleet, MTNTK Piston kits in ALL the 2012'S

 

[Carlos Randolph]

Kraven, good point about the Eth, non-eth setting. I always run mine on the eth setting as well. I also run mine with the temp always showing on the guage. If it goes above 135-140, I am looking for some loose snow to cool it down.