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2012 M1100 T coolant issues

RonaldMcPwnCakes

New member
Lifetime Membership
Okay time to vent.

Firstly does everyone have these problems with their M series turbo sleds? Bought this sled in 2013 and was so excited, my first ride out with it the clutch was sticking and cost me a bit to fix, then my coolant bottle leaked in the seam another 125.00, just rotten luck all together.

So here's the new issue, after changing the bottle I now get a temp flashing when I punch the throttle and it stops flashing when it idles, I am not sure but a buddy suggested an air lock? Is there a bleed screw on these?
 
Update: Called the dealer and there is no bleed screw and he informed me that I have to drain it pour in a bottle tip it to one side, than another and tip it to the other side? This just doesn't seem right, why would they design it like that? Has to be another way.
 
There is a bleed screw on the top of the head. It's between the 2 exhaust manifold ports where manifold bolts to the head. You ll see it it's behind the factory engine lifting hook that's bolted to the manifold.
 
Would you look at that and mine is coloured in blue marker from the factory. Thanks alot Trucker379l, ill post a video once I bleed this and see if she still temps.
 
So I bled the system like the owners manual said and im still getting the temp issue. maybe I am not doing it right?

I have the front of the sled lifted up about 2 feet. Let her warm up, turned off, turned the bleed screw let the coolant flow out, shut the screw, run the engine turn off bleed for about 30 seconds, and I have done this about 4 times. Took it for a ride and after a few minutes the temp light come on again.
 
Patience...

You likely have more then 1 air pocket. Leave the front of the sled elevated overnight with pressure cap off. Top off coolant and bleed coolant (NO BUBBLES), yes, I know it makes a mess. Do not run the sled during this process, as water pump will break large air pocket into several smaller ones. Then warm it up (make sure rear coolers are warm), and crack bleeder again. If you've no air, you're golden.
 
So your dealer didnt know there was a place to bleed the coolant system? i had a buddy that had that sled for 2 years and had constant coolant troubles finally got rid of it.
 
The radiator cap is a massive issue on the 1100Ts. Actually, the radiator cap and split tank are both symptoms of no coolant circulation pump and underhood airflow that brings wire harness melting heat straight to the clooant tank.
 
I found the problem last night. So here's what I did, I took the small coolant line from the clutch side just next to the throttle cable and plugged the hose with a screw, I then took a modified air tool that I had and pressurized the system through the reservoir overflow. Suddenly I hear air seeping somewhere on the exhaust side, so after some investigating I found a line with a small pin hole that was sucking air and firing out coolant very slowly and only when the system was pressurized, I never noticed it before probably because by time I get my sled into the garage, shut her down, music blaring, 12 pack down, I couldn't hear anything. So here is a few pictures of how I found this little bugger. The line is a small line that comes from the coolant reservoir to the pump. There was a small metal block screwed onto the brace that I removed so you can see it better. I cant prove this but the screw holding that block in place is right perfectly lined up with the pin hole. Either way, engineering failure or human error, I am just glad to find this issue.

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You can actually see where the hose is wet from coolant slowly seeping out.
 
When my coolant tank let go that hose had two splits in it,underneath it.Thankfully removed it and seen them.If you have to do a coolant tank replace the hose too. I took my new coolant tank and plastic welded the seams and then put fibre glass cloth with bumper repair epoxy over the seam then covered the whole tank with aluminum tape,has held all season with no issues
 
So I changed the hose, did the procedure again and still temp light but this time it takes longer for the temp light to come on. When I let the sled down I can hear the rear cooler chugging
 
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