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2012 162 Suspension Sag

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bmhansen

New member
Dec 25, 2013
6
0
1
Harlan, Iowa
On my most recent trip to Wyoming, I scored the pistons on my 2012 M800 Sno Pro 162 and ended up trading for a 2012 M1100T Sno Pro 162. I noticed that the rear suspension had a lot of sag on the top end. If I lift the back of the sled up it will max out and stay up. As soon as I sit on it goes down but after getting off, it wont go back up to that point. There is about 2 inches that the suspension will go down with a very light pressure until it gets firm. when I lay on the ground and move the back that 2 inches, the shock also moves that 2 inches. It almost seems like there is a gap in the top of the shock. I am about 250 and have the shock set at 140psi and the shock has held the same pressure ever since I have had it. My M800 was firm all the way back to the top with no sag and my brothers brand new/left over 2013 M1100T Limited is also very firm at the top end.
I was wondering if there is anything I could do about this or if it something that they have changed since the 2012. I was also thinking it could have something to do with the shock. The sled has about 2000 miles on it.
 
B
Jan 19, 2012
62
25
18
40
We swapped our Float 2's out for Zero Pro's. Those are what come on the base model sleds. EVOLS in the front, Zero Pro in the skid now.
 

akMcat

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 24, 2008
323
99
28
Fort Collins, CO
I've always set up my sled so that when I get on the sled I have about 2" of sag when measured at the rear suspension mount and then adjust the front track shock to control transfer. If it rides too soft or harsh a rebuild or revalve of your shocks is in order. This has always worked well for me. I weigh about 230 with gear on and ended up at 135psi in the rear shock and about a turn on the adjuster past just touching the spring on the front shock with the limiter in the middle hole. This was on a 12 153 800. You will probably need to go with a higher pressure in the rear shock since you have a 162.

Also they changed the location of the front arm mount in 13 and in 14 changed the front again as well as the rear arm mounting point.
 
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T
Oct 15, 2008
155
35
28
Kamloops BC Canada
Rear sag setup option

Is your sled level? if the front end is elevated it will sometimes sag. How much preload do you have on the front shock of the skid? The 2 shocks work somewhat together. I run about 1 inch of preload on my front shock and 125 in the rear shock. I am 225 with gear.
 
T
Oct 15, 2008
155
35
28
Kamloops BC Canada
Detaile skid setup

Here is a setup I posted on another thread see below I personally own 3 proclimbs 800 153 and 162 as well as 13 162m1100 t. Since I got my Turbo set up I rarely ride the others. FIRST Change the skis. I have SPL PP. I am 225 with gear.
Front shocks to 85 lbs. Try 1 or 2 lbs. either side depending on how bump compliant you want things. More air rougher but does not lean on the trail, less air smoother but leans on the corners.

Rear shock, skid. This is where weight comes in. I run mine @ 123-126 lbs.

The front shock on the skid is where you can really dial this sled and make it feel lighter. This shock preload can carry the weight of the motor and hide the heavy feeling. Spend some time here with great rewards. Everything works together.

Start with 85 lbs. on the ski shocks. 125lbs. in the rear shock of the skid and 10 threads showing on the front shock of the skid. Fine tune from this point.

Tips on dialing the front Shock preload of the skid...
This shock preload controls the centre of gravity of the sled..
More preload the sled becomes tippier and steering goes away.. You will push through the corners on the trail. This may be a desirable trait when Boondocking....
Less preload and you lower the centre of gravity and the sled becomes very heavy and hard to turn, darty, and very hard to lay over. It really shows its weight.
The best overall setup I have found is to ride a mile or so at a time and slowly turn up the preload on the front shock of the skid until your steering starts to go away (push through corners) then lower preload so the sled steers. You now have the maximum amount of weight off your skis and a light feel.

Advanced tuning tips...

skis... By having a more aggressive ski you can de weight the front end to feel light but still have steering bite.

Adjust throughout the day.... For boondocking crank up the preload on the front shock of the skid and it will be much easier to lay over. Re adjust for the trail ride home for steering.

I hope this helps you enjoy your M1100 t as much as I enjoy mine.
 

UtahEdge

Well-known member
Premium Member
Sep 19, 2003
1,061
370
83
Syracuse, Utah
I had to replace my rails on my 2012. After I got it all put back together and put in all of a sudden it sags really bad too. I had it in the dealer for other issues and had them take a look, they said every thing looks ok but they cant figure out why its sagging. The rear shock holds pressure and I didn't adjust the front rear shock. Any ideas what would cause this?
 
B
Jan 8, 2008
12
1
3
I had to replace my rails on my 2012. After I got it all put back together and put in all of a sudden it sags really bad too. I had it in the dealer for other issues and had them take a look, they said every thing looks ok but they cant figure out why its sagging. The rear shock holds pressure and I didn't adjust the front rear shock. Any ideas what would cause this?

Fox Float shocks have a small nitrogen charge in them, I was told, and if this leaks out over time the result is 2 inches of sag. Every thing will appear normal from the outside. Finding a dealer who knows what your talking about and is qualified to fix is a whole other chapter in 2012 1100t Proclimb book of horrors. Replace it with a coil over and don't look back.
 
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