2011 Timbersled short track any good?

[colnc]

I have the opportunity to purchase a 2013 KTM 450 XC-F with a 2011 timbersled short track on it. I don't know much about the different years of timbersled. is this still a decent track set up? good for all around riding? Decent in a couple feet of powder? I am about 200 pounds dressed in gear. Looks to be in excellent condition but what should I look for in terms of wear? Stress points?
Thanks in advance!

 

[up-high]

It should be fine. Look for any cracks on the swingarm. Check the bearings. Ask if any bearing upgrades were done. Is it the best track? No but it's ok. After you ride a while you might want to upgrade or not. Depends on the riding you want to do.

 

[Flyandride]

The exact same set up is at my local shop is in Idaho Falls. That may also be the one you are looking at.
I have a 2014 ST so I can't comment on the older tracks/frame but I have tried one of the older thinner skis and did not like it. You can get around but when you get off the trail into the fun stuff your front end dives a lot when its soft.
The one in Idaho Falls has the thinner ski.
I would say the upgrade to the fatter ski is a must.

My personal feelings based on what I heave read and on what I own, if you are trying to keep the cost down, get a less expensive bike and a newer mountain horse.
You can still get a nice newer fuel injected bike plus a newer used TS for around $9,000 and hopefully have room in the budget for the bearings upgrade on the TS.

Either way, you should get one.

 

[the gman]

Any year snowbike is a kick. As far as upgrades the wide ski was a game changer for trail riding. In 13 Allen went to a taller lug track without the fiberglass rods in the track and that made leaning the bike (kit) over easier. Make sure you have steel sprokets, earlier ones had aluminum and they didn't last. The track flex that came out on the 14's i don't like but some do. Get the bearing upgrade, good investment but the keys are .002 undersized. Get true .025 keys to stop key rolling in the .025 grooves. The bike is a goooood one, if the price is right buy and enjoy. You can always upgrade.

 

[yukondood]

I had the 11 and while I had it I enjoyed it but then rode newer and wondered wtf. IF you buy it I suggest dumping the air shocks and new ski. Rest of upgrades good but ski and shocks a must do.

 

[wakeandsnow]

why are the air shocks no good? Timbersled told me the only reason they went to a conventional coil spring on the newer kits was because of cost.

 

[powdermuncher]

The ski is 80% of it the rest is the new Track and pivot front arm.

If it is in good shape and the price is right just go for it -- once dialled in with the new ski it will be great. If you feel like it you can eventually upgrade to the new front pivoting Suspension arm and Track. The shocks are fine just not as plush as coil-overs or later Float shocks.

 

[yukondood]

the air shocks suck in -10 celsius or colder, hard to dial-good spring riding but horrible rest of year unless you run a compressor and adjust all day long-obvious not an option so go easy keyboard critics

 

[wakeandsnow]

the air shocks suck in -10 celsius or colder, hard to dial-good spring riding but horrible rest of year unless you run a compressor and adjust all day long-obvious not an option so go easy keyboard critics

Has anybody ever looked into adding a small reservoir to the air shocks? I put Fett chambers on my dad's floats on his turbo cat and nextech reservoirs on my float 2's on my summit and they work really really well. I agree, stock air shocks are pretty hard but they react just as good as conventional coils after you expand their capacity.

 

[KAWGRN]

Not everyone is rich$$$ and I would rather have an 11 kit than no kit! Get the 11 if it's priced right and the new ski and smile!