2011 rmk injectors ground issue

[jdetoy]

I have a 2011 rmk with a silber turbo on it. Will not run . Took off all aftermarket wiring and the injectors are getting 16v and it has spark , 58 psi fuel pressure. If I spay a little starting fluid in her she will fire. Took it to a very capable mechanic we have both been scratching our Heads about it. Tried a different fi harness I bought at haydays. It is the updated one same part # as the one I took off. So the injectors are not getting ground. They ground to the jugs and the jugs have continuity to ground and I have spark so they are grounded well. Any ideas as far as wiring goes all after market stuff is off and I am not running a head light if that makes any difference. I have also move my controls from the handle bars to the console.

 

[theultrarider]

Have you checked for broken reeds?

 

[jdetoy]

I bought this sled used and abused knew it needed a lot of work. I pulled the engine out and fully rebuilt it. Crank repacked rktek pistons. The reeds were in good shape no chipped or cracked pedals.

 

[stormrider3]

I have a 2011 rmk with a silber turbo on it. Will not run . Took off all aftermarket wiring and the injectors are getting 16v and it has spark , 58 psi fuel pressure. If I spay a little starting fluid in her she will fire. Took it to a very capable mechanic we have both been scratching our Heads about it. Tried a different fi harness I bought at haydays. It is the updated one same part # as the one I took off. So the injectors are not getting ground. They ground to the jugs and the jugs have continuity to ground and I have spark so they are grounded well. Any ideas as far as wiring goes all after market stuff is off and I am not running a head light if that makes any difference. I have also move my controls from the handle bars to the console.

That means she's not getting gas, new fuel filter, gas sock(in tank) clear, fresh new gas, places to start looking. Good luck

 

[jdetoy]

It has fuel pressure and fuel to the injectors have taken off the rail several timed in this , just put a new filter on and fresh tank of 100ll when I tried to fire her up( we went as far as taking gas out of the tank to see if it worked in a weed eater) . We are pretty confident we have narrowed the problem down to the injectors are not grounding but why we are not sure

 

[theultrarider]

Or the injectors are just stuck closed. Have it ever run since you bought ?

 

[jdetoy]

Yes it ran last year for a couple rides and I realized just how much work it needed. I sent the injectors off to get cleaned and tested they are fine and we have taken them off and plused them manually, also I have 2 harnesses each with their own set of injectors, highly doubt that all 4 injectors I have are stuck open.

 

[diamonddave]

Yeah it sounds like from what you have tested so far, the ECM is (for whatever reason) not sending the pulsing ground signal to open the injectors. Sounds like you've tested that you do have operating voltage (which seems a little high but might be due to the issue at hand) on the hot side.

The ECM pulses a ground to the ground side of the injector to control the opening of the pintle in the injector which is what delivers the precise amount of fuel.

Do you have a wiring schematic? You are going to need a quality multimieter also. I would backprobe at the ECM connector on both sides of each injector wire (Wires) and at the injector also using a seperate ground and test. There may be a reason why IF the ECM is not grounding the injectors (voltage reg, stator, capacitor, etc.)


The 1 check I would make sure of before going any further is that the chassis ground has zero and I mean zero corrossion. My wifes sled with less than 400 miles had some unbelievable corrosion. Wire brush those clean and make sure they are connected to the aluminum support and not a powdercoated bumper. Can't hurt to do this no matter what they look like.


You have a symptom that has stumped even some of the best driveability techs a time or two. Sometimes a donor sled of swapping darts, I mean parts can be quicker than going through the argerous task of wire chasing. But most of the time the fix is always a no brainer.

I will look and see if I have a wiring schematic.

 

[jdetoy]

Thanks Dave I do have a wiring diagram , this sled was striped to the frame and built back up with a ton of painted parts including the frame. The grounds do bolt to the over structure that has been cleaned to bare aluminum. The stator capacitor, jugs vr etc ground all have continuity to ground. So when I brought it in to get worked on I brought up the fact that every thing is painted and gave the example of restore a car when you take everything apart a paint it and put it back together you have to run a ton of grounding straps to get the electronics to all work because of continuity issues. After a lot of testing it seamed like we had our grounds all tested and pass but I guess we are wrong as the injectors will not ground. On my dragons we always ran the extra grounding straps from the belt guard to the engine mounting bolts and a wire from there to where the harness grounds. Never had a ecu or vr burn down after that.

Do you think I could benefit from running some grounding straps and if so from where to where

 

[jdetoy]

Sorry the 16v to injectors was a typo it is around 13 when we pull the rope to start it

 

[diamonddave]

Thanks Dave I do have a wiring diagram , this sled was striped to the frame and built back up with a ton of painted parts including the frame. The grounds do bolt to the over structure that has been cleaned to bare aluminum. The stator capacitor, jugs vr etc ground all have continuity to ground. So when I brought it in to get worked on I brought up the fact that every thing is painted and gave the example of restore a car when you take everything apart a paint it and put it back together you have to run a ton of grounding straps to get the electronics to all work because of continuity issues. After a lot of testing it seamed like we had our grounds all tested and pass but I guess we are wrong as the injectors will not ground. On my dragons we always ran the extra grounding straps from the belt guard to the engine mounting bolts and a wire from there to where the harness grounds. Never had a ecu or vr burn down after that.

Do you think I could benefit from running some grounding straps and if so from where to where

Maybe, except the location of the ground on the PRO is a 100 times better than the dragon. I like to use a some alligator clips and go directly to the motor and other areas of the chassis during diagnoising issues.

For the purposes of diagnoising, are you energizing the ECM with a 12 volt battery? I would highly rec doing this, makes things much easier. i would also energize the capacitor in your case.

A couple of questions:

Have you checked for voltage at the 2 orange wires coming from the VR? If so, what are the readings? This is a source for the ECM for the injectors.

Have you checked resistance of the stator? If so, what are the readings? I would check all 3 legs and the 2 crank position sensors. The ECM has to have a trigger from the CPS to begin firing the injectors.

Also, have you checked the 2 amp fuse?

 

[jdetoy]

It has a 10 amp fuse because of the turbo, but it is good. When I had it in my garage I had it hooked up to a 12v source, have one if the slp connectors for priming furl system etc. It is in the shop now I did not check any of those things did not know too. I gave up and took it to someone who knows more than me. Kinda glad I did as he is having problems as well, just thought I would see if anyone else has had this problem or so ideas about it

 

[diamonddave]

Did you check the TSS (Throttle Safety Switch)? If activated, the ECM will not allow fuel.

 

[jdetoy]

I have a billet throttle block, I have the TSS plunger taped down. Looking at the wiring diagram doesn't the tss ground out like the kill switch so there is no spark?