Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2011 pro problems

cascadesnowjunky

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I was curious, if the check engine light comes on will it go out on its own once whatever problems it is having are fixed. Maybe sombody has had this issue I am having and can give some insight, here it goes. I installed the power addiction 13.1:1 head and I ride from 4-7000'. Last weekend I rode it for the first time and ran good but still not pulling the r's I wanted only pulling 8100. So this week I installed the carls clutch kit I bought and took it out today, the sled flat rocked pulled 8200-8350 all day. The problem is the computer would shut the engine down for a spit second on a climb, I thought at first maybe I was hitting the rev limiter but after it did it about 6 different times I started to watch closely and it was only pulling about 8200. Then I figured it was probably detonation, but after doing it about 6 or 8 more times the check engine light came on and stayed on now it will not pull r's at all . I did not think the check engine light would stay on it would just flash a preset amount of times for the problem at hand when starting the sled. I am not sure now if it was even det. my thoughts are even maybe an injector, the moter even sounds different from 5200 to 5900 now that the ck eng light is on, almost like when the computer shuts it down. I am lost, I guess i will take it to the dealer and have them put it on digital wrench, hopefully it will show something and it is not serious. With any luck it is detonation and I can just put better fuel in it. If it is det. then the computer must only let it hit det so many times before the eng light comes on and stays on and restricts wot.
 
Did you you ever find out what went wrong, was it the head? clutching?keep us informed. I have the 13.1 head and I am a little hesitant to put put it on after reading this
 
cascade...pretty darn sure you were hitting the rev limiter..sure sounds like it....I have found that if you see over 8200 on the guage..most likely the sled is actually bumping 8400+...when ever you wonder about rpm..use the memory feature and record it..the memory will show if its hitting the limiter...now what did the dealer find for the light? and why did it stay in limp mode?....
 
Did you by chance forget to plug in your temp sensor on your pipe? Seems like some people forget to install it or plug it back in...
 
There is a detailed procedure in your manual or on line that tells you what code is active if the check engine light is on. This should point you in the right direction, I used this last year to diagnose a bad temp sensor. very easy page 39-41 in manual. Hope this helps!
 
With any luck it is detonation and I can just put better fuel in it. If it is det. then the computer must only let it hit det so many times before the eng light comes on and stays on and restricts wot.

I would actually be hoping that it was your rev limiter. Det=very bad damage. Rev limiter=throw more weight at your primary. I can't imagine why you'd hope for the detonation outcome. Pull your plugs and look at your pistons before you do anything.
 
I checked the code and the active code was 173-3 which is pipe temp sensor high voltage, that was the only code showing in the active codes. I talked to Oregon Trail Sports and they said the pipe temp sensor is bad. They also said the only way to check inactive codes was with the digital wrench. They told me that if I replace the temp probe the light should go out on its own unless there is other problems. I put a probe out of my buddies in and let it warm up and the check engine light went out, so I reinstalled mine to see if I could get it to come on and could not. I went ahead and got another sensor and will put it in my pack, I want to ride it to see if it faults again, I will also run some better fuel this next ride just to make sure it is not detonating and causing issues. I have never had it shut down due to severe det. but could be minor det so then it will just temporarily go into limp mode and then come right back which is what it was doing. hopefully it was just overreving thats an easy fix. I didnt meen to make it sound like I wanted det in my post above I know that is very bad, but that is an easy fix also(buy better fuel and mix it). I will post the outcome this weekend, hopefully all is good because this sled rocks with that head and better clutching.:face-icon-small-hap
 
If you are going to mix some fuel, a gallon of AV gas will do the trick and its cheap. If you have suspected detonation you should still pull your plugs and check your piston crowns before running it again. I hope everything is ok though. Good luck.
 
I rode today with my original pipe probe installed and made it about 200 yards after warming it up before the check engine came on. I was not able to get a new probe before today so I took my buddies probe with me and installed it as soon as the light came on. I rode about 100 ft and the light went out and the sled ran flawless all day. I also put 2.5 gallons of av gas in to make sure I did not get deto. The sled did hiccup 2 times today but was probably the rev limiter.:face-icon-small-hap The sled is ripping again now just need to find some good snow, not this cascade concrete.
 
For those new to the pro this year

Understanding that this does not appear to be your issue, many others new to the pro this year may likely have a similar issue again with hitting the rev limit.
I was running polaris 64's at high altitudes last year so I didn't, but a lot posted last year that did. It seemed to be a prevalent problem at first for many that were always pushing the edge of the limit on last years pro. I also remember the rpm's were bumping up and down and bouncing around quickly within 200 rpm's on the screen at times indicating that it could be possible to hit the rev limit without it actually showing on the gauge. Consequently a few that didn't trust that it was happening from not seeing it on the gauge while riding solved the problem by adding weight.
Does the rev limit have to be reached for a duration in order to retard the engine, or does it react fast enough that you can hit the limit without it even registering on the gauge? Computers are pretty quick now. From reading it seemed that by far the majority solved the issue by adding weight. It seemed like this issue caused the most confusion last year.
 
Last edited:
Your exhaust sensor must be bad, your buddies good. The reason it comes on with your buddies to be begin with is you have to get the sled up to running RPM to get it to reset the code. Went through this issue twice with my 09 Assualt.
 
Who on earth would have convinced you to do such a thing? What weight did you end up with?
 
Doc, the head did make a slight difference but the clutching was more noticable. All together the sled is a new monster with the combo. I am just glad to figure the pipe temp probe problem out, this sled flat rips now. Not that it did not run good before, it's just way better now.:face-icon-small-hap F-bomb I am running 62 gram epi's at 4000-7000 feet
 
OK this is gonna cost you $99...PUT IN 64 gram EPI's. You think she is wonderment now? You have five more lengths to go...get it to 8000 even 7950 and let us know what you think. Worst case scenerio you may end up custom grinding your weights to 63 on certain conditions. Irregardless you need to find that magic low 8. Mine will hold it and it doesn't matter on the climb duration or trail. Your sled can pull more and is a lot faster when you load it up even at only 1 gram.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top