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2011 polaris 800 pro sliber turbo

Headed down the trail today run great for 6kms shut it off and tried to start again wouldnt start, jumped on with my son rode for another 2 hours, come back to sled on the trail out and it fired right up, confused. checked for spark when it wouldnt start, had lots of spark. Anyone have this problem. Computer ??
 
This is going to sound stupid but it happened to my buddies. The recoil rope that gets re routed makes it harder to pull over and it wouldn't fire when it was warm. I am not sure why the only thing I could think of was maybe when warm the resistance of some the ignition components goes up and the engine needs to turn quicker. Again just a theory. We finally figured it out when two people would pull the rope it would start when warm. We re routed his recoil rope and its been fine. Hope that helps.





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Some of the kits last year required tuning of the rope angle. You want it to be a straight shot without hitting the housing. Some would get bent in shipping. If your sled is hard to pull over you need to look at that. If that is not the issue I would check the compression.
 
Yep, mine would do that. I got in the habit of always when starting giving the sled about 1\4 throttle when warm. If it did not start then it was the old pull it a bunch with the key off and then it would usually start. After I had the little procedure down it was not to bad. Was frustrating at times that is for sure.

Sam
 
Yep, mine would do that. I got in the habit of always when starting giving the sled about 1\4 throttle when warm. If it did not start then it was the old pull it a bunch with the key off and then it would usually start. After I had the little procedure down it was not to bad. Was frustrating at times that is for sure.

Sam

Weird..........never experienced that once yesterday.........:)
 
Headed down the trail today run great for 6kms shut it off and tried to start again wouldnt start, jumped on with my son rode for another 2 hours, come back to sled on the trail out and it fired right up, confused. checked for spark when it wouldnt start, had lots of spark. Anyone have this problem. Computer ??

NOT a Silber sled, but my old turbo had something similar. turned out a fuel pump was going out.
 
Getting lots of spark though, seams easy to pull. A guy from town said it might be the throttle cable not getting back to zero, he had the same problem with his yamaha. We where in 4' off fresh snow so could be possible. Any thoughts on that. I will check the compression. First polaris Ive owned and first turbo, runs really strong when it runs.
 
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Towed mine out the first time because of the same thing. WFO and pull it starts right up . Just part of the tricks of running a turbo. you can also let it idle for 10 -15 second after stopping and you wont have any trouble. I think the it just loads up the cases.
 
Towed mine out the first time because of the same thing. WFO and pull it starts right up . Just part of the tricks of running a turbo. you can also let it idle for 10 -15 second after stopping and you wont have any trouble. I think the it just loads up the cases.

I have always been advised to always let the turbos idle down before you kit the kill switch. Keeps the bearings properly lubed.
 
I have always been advised to always let the turbos idle down before you kit the kill switch. Keeps the bearings properly lubed.

good point. not AS big of an issue with the good synthetic oils we have now but it does allow the center section to cool down so the oil wont "cook" in there.
 
I think it's always a good habit in general, with ANY type of sled sled-up, to let it idle down 10 to 15 secons before you hit the kill switch.

I've seen guys chop the throttle and hit the kill switch almost at the same time.
And then when they went to start it, they had to give it an extra 3 or 4 (or even more) pulls on the rope. Have also heard them pop REALLY loud after it shuts off...or when it starts again.
 
good point. not AS big of an issue with the good synthetic oils we have now but it does allow the center section to cool down so the oil wont "cook" in there.


Plus, if you chop the throttle while the turbo is still spining, especially at high R's, then the oil is not pumping anything into the bearings while the vanes are still spinning.

Probably the same guys that don't let their turbo diesel trucks idle down before they shut them off. Bad idea.
 
Towed mine out the first time because of the same thing. WFO and pull it starts right up . Just part of the tricks of running a turbo. you can also let it idle for 10 -15 second after stopping and you wont have any trouble. I think the it just loads up the cases.

Yep, that was part of the "procedure". :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap

Sam
 
Yeah i notice whenever i just shut it off right away or get bucked off and pull the tether its a PITA to start again. Pretty sure it just floods her out.
 
Ive had it happen a few times. Usually the quick/easy fix is like said above: hold the throttle wide open while pulling it over. Fires rite up, make sure you let go of the throttle quick after it fires up, lol.
 
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