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2011 Crossfire Creeping at idle

Hello, I am having an issue with my crossfire. I just had the diamond drive out to rebuild it and also replaced brake side drive shaft bearings and upon reassembly I decided I would put a new drive belt on. I noticed that the belt that was on it was the 0627-046 belt but when ordering a new belt I had seen the correct one was the 0627-060 so that's what I ordered. I put it on and started it up and it wanted to creep forward when idling. Tried loosening the belt to the point where it was obviously too loose but the track still wanted to creep. It seems as if the belt is too wide because it comes in contact with both primary clutch sheaves. I do have to SSI Diamond Drive clutch kit installed which has the adjustable weights and different springs for primary and secondary and also a different helix. I don't have this problem with the old belt at all.
 
I thought the only difference was rubber compound but I could be wrong. I'm sure there are specs out there regarding belt dimensions. I recall reading that if I change out my 46 for a 60 I will run a few hundred RPM more on my M8, but that is all I recall.
 
Your secondary might be too tight and allowing the belt to pull once it all settles and runs a few cycles. Add some shims to the secondary to space the sheaves out more. Sometimes you might think you are good when nothing is moving, but once it gets a few turns on the primary it synches up and the primary is not grabbing the sides, but pulling in the bottom if the belt surface...not good as this will put notches at the base of the belt. You need to shim the secondary out more to where the belt rides lower in the secondary...jack the back up and give throttle to engage the primary...at idle it should let the belt come lose, yet be tight enough to barely spin the track...just creep it forward. I'm guessing the secondary seems ok for tension when on the ground and nothing moving...but the belt moves up on the secondary sheaves when you go a few feet. The only way to set the secondary spacing/tension is no load and track free to spin. And, yes, those belts are the same width and you can go back and forth depending on top RPMs. One is more sticky and will result in lower peak rpms...that is the only difference. Shim the secondary out a lot and slowly pull it in to track creep with back lifted (no load).
 
Remove shims from secondary to loosen. I set my belt tension so the track just starts to move with the track in the air but doesn't creep forward with sled on the ground.
 
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