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2011 assault burndown

Cooked a 2011 800 yesterday. No mods, 10,000 ft. 10-62 weights. 1500 miles. 18-28 degrees. Just went slow and locked up running up a groomed hill at 6100-7200 rpm. Normal running temp 3 hours into a continuous ride. I thought they fixed this problem? I haven't tore it apart yet. Any insight to this or thoughts to to rebuild?
 
I took out a motor last year on my 11 pro, piston skirt snapped off and chewed everything up. Two weeks later new short block and rippin again. What I heard is some early production models had piston clearence issue's.
 
$.02

Cooked a 2011 800 yesterday. No mods, 10,000 ft. 10-62 weights. 1500 miles. 18-28 degrees. Just went slow and locked up running up a groomed hill at 6100-7200 rpm. Normal running temp 3 hours into a continuous ride. I thought they fixed this problem? I haven't tore it apart yet. Any insight to this or thoughts to to rebuild?
Well that sucks! I am not a mechanic but I am guessing not enough oil. The amount of oil they don't use scares the **** out of me. Did that sled have the oil line recall?:brokenheart:
 
Also is your sled stock? I noticed your running 62 gram weights at 10,000 ft, what rpm are you getting? Seems a little heavy to get max top end rpm.
 
Seized Mine Too

Seized my 2011 800 Pro Friday afternoon with 1400 miles on it. I've heard whispers around Western Idaho about the "Liberties" Still!!!!! Having problems despite what Polaris claims, and found out first hand that they still cannot build a dependable engine. Never ran a prolonged RPM, it never heated up, was running a big powder day at 127degreesFarenheidt. Lots of coolent left, has to be either lack of lubrication or plain out MECHANICAL failure which is my suspicion. 12,000$ for 1,400 miles:brokenheart:
I have yet to open it up but will soon, my problem is where do I take it cause none of the dealers have a clue as to what is going on and how to solve the problem.???
 
my buddies '11 assault , no mods, gave up the ghost the 3rd weekend of november in revelstoke. turns out the temperature sensor went screwy.... seems as though it wouldn't read above 53 degrees celsius, then he was also getting bubbles in his coolant; i'm assuming some blow-by across the o-rings on the head.
full warranty coverage, so back to revelstoke and see if she works.

apparently there were several other sleds in the shop, getting 'similar' symptoms looked after....
 
Seized up 2011 Liberty 800 1400miles

Suspicion's aside I still need some words of wisdom as to who if anyone has a rhyme or reason why these sleds keep eating pistons? My yellow ! light appeared off and on for the last couple of miles of riding before I heard a high pitched ting tang ting and then could not get the sled above 5000 rpm following this. So I immediately shut her down...came to a stop pulled my left panel off and tried to rotate the primary through...and to my SUSPICION she had decided to seize up. after cooling for a half hour or so I could rotate the primary all the way through but not without trouble and immense/extra friction. Long of the short is we hooked on with a couple of sleds and pulled it out of a couple of holes...just waiting for someone to act as though they know how to fix it. My personal anger and disappointment has led me to signing up on snowest over this matter...I own two polaris's now and had hoped that they had nipped this matter in the butt although this doesn't seem to be the case.
 
I love forums for learning. If I can't post knowledge or questions that inspire knowledge I won't. I raced snocross in mn for 10 years ending in 2008. I feel I know a fair amount about sleds, subsequently why I purchased a 2011 Assault (the FIXED) sled. And an assault to be riding near Pinedale,wy, yeah every group we met thought my hard lug track might as well be made by Caterpillar. But at any rate I want to share my expierence to solve these motor issues.
 
Top rpm 8050-8100. The night before the burndown it dropped 2ft on the hill. Low was in the single digits. Snow was well setup. Hitting 8000 was tough. So I might not have an exact elevation, that's why I referred to my rpm and temp knowledge. I wish I knew more about this fuel delivery the map/ air/ temp/ barometric pressure all would add to knowing if I made a mistake. Have we asked for to much from the manufactures, and they have deferred to tell us we need to rebuild at 1200 miles?
 
I agree!

I feel the same way. I can get my machine fixed up and back on the powpow in a day or 2 but I need answers. Race sleds need a rebuild every x-gallons of fuel. Trail sleds from 10 years ago went 5 years til the owner made a mistake. Today's mtn sled seems to be the dealerships parts cash cow of 2 years or 1200 miles. I love my brand, but we need answers even if they are not the best.

Your suspicions seem suspicious.:face-icon-small-ton:face-icon-small-hap

Suspicion's aside I still need some words of wisdom as to who if anyone has a rhyme or reason why these sleds keep eating pistons? My yellow ! light appeared off and on for the last couple of miles of riding before I heard a high pitched ting tang ting and then could not get the sled above 5000 rpm following this. So I immediately shut her down...came to a stop pulled my left panel off and tried to rotate the primary through...and to my SUSPICION she had decided to seize up. after cooling for a half hour or so I could rotate the primary all the way through but not without trouble and immense/extra friction. Long of the short is we hooked on with a couple of sleds and pulled it out of a couple of holes...just waiting for someone to act as though they know how to fix it. My personal anger and disappointment has led me to signing up on snowest over this matter...I own two polaris's now and had hoped that they had nipped this matter in the butt although this doesn't seem to be the case.
 
Everything they make today is junk.

I feel the same way. I can get my machine fixed up and back on the powpow in a day or 2 but I need answers. Race sleds need a rebuild every x-gallons of fuel. Trail sleds from 10 years ago went 5 years til the owner made a mistake. Today's mtn sled seems to be the dealerships parts cash cow of 2 years or 1200 miles. I love my brand, but we need answers even if they are not the best.
I hope you realize I was taking a shot at Murph. :face-icon-small-ton
I would like to know also as I have two 2011 Pro's.
One rumor that came right from a dealer is that the cylinder skirt have been breaking at around 1500 miles. I agree on your assessments on the sleds in years past. But getting back to your sled, I had the same thing happen to my 2007 600, twice. The dealer said it was an oil issue. After the second time the dealer tested the oil pump. That turned out to be working properly but they replaced it anyway and I had no problems after that. You didn't happen to blow a belt previously did you?
 
I hope you realize I was taking a shot at Murph. :face-icon-small-ton

Yeah, I got that. I understand.

Udaho, sorry for your troubles. Hate to see when one guy has a problem and then forum trolls jump in and start brand bashing..... Watching it happen in the AC forum right now regarding the Pro Climb.



I love forums for learning. If I can't post knowledge or questions that inspire knowledge I won't. I raced snocross in mn for 10 years ending in 2008. I feel I know a fair amount about sleds, subsequently why I purchased a 2011 Assault (the FIXED) sled. And an assault to be riding near Pinedale,wy, yeah every group we met thought my hard lug track might as well be made by Caterpillar. But at any rate I want to share my expierence to solve these motor issues.

Bsietsema, I wasn't jumping your sh!t. But I do have a question, no offense intended, why are you running 10-62's at 10,000 feet with no mods? That sled can't pull that much weight in the primary and as a result you were stuck in the effective midrange. With its subsequent lean spot (EPA emissions). Not saying its ok for a sled to burn down because of EPA emissions but wondering if the temp was spiking because of the rpms you were running. Without an EGT, it's hard to see temp spikes. Was your engine temp rising during your long pulls or immediately after?


Suspicion's aside I still need some words of wisdom as to who if anyone has a rhyme or reason why these sleds keep eating pistons? My yellow ! light appeared off and on for the last couple of miles of riding before I heard a high pitched ting tang ting and then could not get the sled above 5000 rpm following this. So I immediately shut her down...came to a stop pulled my left panel off and tried to rotate the primary through...and to my SUSPICION she had decided to seize up. after cooling for a half hour or so I could rotate the primary all the way through but not without trouble and immense/extra friction. Long of the short is we hooked on with a couple of sleds and pulled it out of a couple of holes...just waiting for someone to act as though they know how to fix it. My personal anger and disappointment has led me to signing up on snowest over this matter...I own two polaris's now and had hoped that they had nipped this matter in the butt although this doesn't seem to be the case.

Let's be clear. I am not trying to start a pissing contest with you.
The yellow light was on the last couple of miles and you kept riding without investigating? THEN you heard a high pitch whine then tried to rev PAST 5000 rpm? Was it the DET sensor going off? Was the engine light trying to tell you something BEFORE you rode it a couple more miles and it blew up?

With the number of Pros out there I don't think we are seeing an epidemic of burn downs. Have some burnt down? Absolutely. We are talking about 150+ hp two strokes ridden in extreme conditions. And I understand your frustration, nothing sucks more than when it happens to you.

One problem we saw last year was the "cold shot" issue. If the sleds shut down, even for a couple of minutes, the temps drop dramatically. When the sled is fired back up and pinned immediately-- especially in deep , high load snow-- the sudden expansion/ contraction can lead the piston skirts to or bottom of the cylinders to shear off. Real important to let the sled temps stabilize around 120 degrees (both going up and coming down) before pinning it.

Have you looked in your exhaust ports when cleaning your valves, how do the exhaust side piston skirts look? Are they worn or scuffed?

My 2011 Pro has over 2500 hard miles on it from last year's epic snowfalls in Tahoe. Days and days and Miles upon miles of breaking trail in over three feet of heavy snow at high rpm. Always waiting for temps to hit 120 before taking off.

Girlfriends Pro also has over 1500 miles on it in similar (pinned so long you feel sorry for the motor) conditions.

What have all of you noticed for oil consumption? Are you adding pre mix to your tank? Have you turned up the oil rod linkage? Kinks or air bubbles in your lines? Have you calculated your oil to fuel consumption to get an idea of your ratio?

Let's get this thread back on track and diagnose your problems and get all of you back on the snow.
 
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how much oil are people adding to gas to premix? i have almost 400 miles on my 12 and this weekend decided i would try and add some oil to the gas. don't want to add to much but don't want to add to little.
 
I don't think I would do that. It might help but then again you are also effectively leaning yourself out a little bit as well...
 
how much oil are people adding to gas to premix? i have almost 400 miles on my 12 and this weekend decided i would try and add some oil to the gas. don't want to add to much but don't want to add to little.

My personal sled only has two rides on it, but I have been monitoring oil and fuel consumption and I'm confortable with the average ratio that the oil pump has been providing.

I have seen quite a few "burn downs" on these sleds, so far all of them have been warrantied, even though ALL of them were not actually a burn down.

Two have been catastrophic detonation (piston or rings) as a result of some questionable fuel (watched those two go down). the other two were obvious cold seizures, both in the way in which they happened and the resulting damage.
 
how much oil are people adding to gas to premix? i have almost 400 miles on my 12 and this weekend decided i would try and add some oil to the gas. don't want to add to much but don't want to add to little.

Talked to SLP today. Brought up the adding oil and possibility of leaning out the motor. Well if that is true why does the dealer add 2 oz of oil per gallon of fuel to break in the motor? :-0 Add 1 oz per gallon and you will have no problems at all with leaning out the motor and it just might be the band-aid needed for this motor.
 
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