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2011 Assault A Arms Not Avvailable until Jan. 7th, 2011

WyoPro

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Caught a rock on my 2011 Assault 11/14/10 and went to the local Polaris dealer to get a replacement. They had none in stock and their system showed that they would not be available until some time after Jan. 7th, 2010.

The geometry of the A-arms is identical to that of previous years Assault. They are flat black not gloss like 2010. The shock mount on A-arm is 10 mil instead of 3/8 inch. The ball joint on lower A-arm is the same however the ID of the hole is also for 10 mil bolt and not 3/8 inch.

So, if you want to ride before they are available and have bent one beyond repair what do you do?

To the best of my knowledge (have not done it yet) you can press out the metal sleeve in the IQ A-arm and replace it with the sleeve from the Pro A-arm where they bolt onto the bulkhead. The OD of these two sleeves should be the same. The ball bearing on the lower A-arm is the same dimensions with the exception of the ID. Removal of the circlip located on the bottom portion of housing should allow you to press out the ball joint and replace it with the one from the damaged A-arm on the Pro. There is really nothing that you can do about the hole for the shock on the A-arm mount unless you were going to do some fab on it but as it is only .087 inch difference between the 3/8 on the IQ and 10 mil on the Pro I don't forsee any problems.

Maybe there is something similar to this on here, I know they touched on the subject a little on the discussion about shock length, but for anybody that found themselves in this particular situation now or in the future before they are available I hope this helps.

Riley
 

2007dragonman

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2011 a-arm

Have them do a vehicle down order it will speed it up. I will check i may have one in stock i usually keep all that on hand!!
 

WyoPro

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Have them do a vehicle down order it will speed it up. I will check i may have one in stock i usually keep all that on hand!!

If you find out anything let me know, but I checked a couple places and got the same response. They are on back-order from Polaris....
 

OnlyPolaris

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i am assuming you bent a left hand one. cause the right hand one is available. for some reason the rh a-arm is more then the lh. I would get your dealer to order you one. a lot of times polaris gets the parts in and its a first come first serve basis. I ordered the new spindles for my sled and the one ended up being backordered till the middle of january. a couple days later they got one in and shipped it to me.
 

Ask Yourself

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I popped an a-arm on my 09 assault and found and it cost me like 216 or something so i just got a whole z-broz front end kit for 450 and let me tell you i have popped huge trees and rocks and all i have is bark burn.... and the first one i bend on my new pro i will get a new set for it...
 
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B2

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I popped an a-arm on my 09 assault and found and it cost me like 216 or something so i just got a whole z-broz front end kit for 450 and let me tell you i have popped huge trees and rocks and all i have is bark burn.... and the first one i bend on my new pro i will get a new set for it...

That actually makes a lot of sense and I believe is exactly what I will do if/when I get an A arm.

There you go Riley...Overnight a Z-Broz front end to yourself and I'll buy that TV stand from you to help you pay for it! Haha
 

Rick!

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Caught a rock on my 2011 Assault 11/14/10 and went to the local Polaris dealer to get a replacement. They had none in stock and their system showed that they would not be available until some time after Jan. 7th, 2010.

The geometry of the A-arms is identical to that of previous years Assault. They are flat black not gloss like 2010. The shock mount on A-arm is 10 mil instead of 3/8 inch. The ball joint on lower A-arm is the same however the ID of the hole is also for 10 mil bolt and not 3/8 inch.

So, if you want to ride before they are available and have bent one beyond repair what do you do?

To the best of my knowledge (have not done it yet) you can press out the metal sleeve in the IQ A-arm and replace it with the sleeve from the Pro A-arm where they bolt onto the bulkhead. The OD of these two sleeves should be the same. The ball bearing on the lower A-arm is the same dimensions with the exception of the ID. Removal of the circlip located on the bottom portion of housing should allow you to press out the ball joint and replace it with the one from the damaged A-arm on the Pro. There is really nothing that you can do about the hole for the shock on the A-arm mount unless you were going to do some fab on it but as it is only .087 inch difference between the 3/8 on the IQ and 10 mil on the Pro I don't forsee any problems.

Maybe there is something similar to this on here, I know they touched on the subject a little on the discussion about shock length, but for anybody that found themselves in this particular situation now or in the future before they are available I hope this helps.

Riley

On the mounting bushings, press the sleeve out and remove the plastic bushings. Then you use your old a-arm bushings and pivots in the new 2010 Assault arm. Like you mention, the ball joint needs to be moved from the bent arm to the new one - it should come out and go back in pretty easy. If you have to hammer the crap out of it, something is amiss. Be sure to put the circlip back in. I would enlarge the shock mount ears to 10mm and run the drill in and out a bit to give a little clearance for the metric bolt. A Y, 13/32 or Z bit will work for this.

Putting things back together, the 13mm nuts get torqued pretty tight, check with a dealer for the torques as I don't know the exact number. The studs are high zoot grade 10.9's. The 10mm bolt at the front lower position gets some jam put to it, somewhere around 50-52 ft-lbs IIRC.
 

WyoPro

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That actually makes a lot of sense and I believe is exactly what I will do if/when I get an A arm.

There you go Riley...Overnight a Z-Broz front end to yourself and I'll buy that TV stand from you to help you pay for it! Haha

I think I can find an old '10 A-arm for a lot less then the Z-Broz front end, although it would probably be an improvement and for $475 you get the upper and lowers. Brian, I'll trade you the TV stand for a garrett, sounds reasonable to me!

Rick, thanks for the info. That's the plan as of now so when I get my hands on an A-arm and go to work I'll see what works.
 

WyoPro

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Switch to RMK width A-arms?

Try contacting a friend of mine, Dan Alt @ 406-222-2586

http://www.alternativeimpact.com/

I believe he is working on the PRO chassis arms. Might be done.

I know he made IQ chassis arms.



Thanks for the info Glenn, I took a look at the website, I'm not a big fan of aftermarket companies using automotive hiems for the lower A-arms. I've been that route before and in my personal opinion there is a reason that the lower A-arms are using a ball joint encased in steel, even though there is only a cir-clip holding the ball joint in the housing, all the force is pushing that joint up against the circular housing.
 

WyoPro

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Dave, found a couple ones online for around 120 shipped. I think I'll probably just go down to Fontier and pick one up. Little more expensive at around 180 but I can get it right now and I'm a firm believer if you take care of the local dealer they'll take care of you when you're in a bind!
 
D

dcturbo

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Dave, found a couple ones online for around 120 shipped. I think I'll probably just go down to Fontier and pick one up. Little more expensive at around 180 but I can get it right now and I'm a firm believer if you take care of the local dealer they'll take care of you when you're in a bind!

Amen Brother... If I bust one up I will just go take Barry's!:face-icon-small-win
Or should I say when I do...
 

milehighassassin

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The geometry of the A-arms is identical to that of previous years Assault. They are flat black not gloss like 2010. The shock mount on A-arm is 10 mil instead of 3/8 inch. The ball joint on lower A-arm is the same however the ID of the hole is also for 10 mil bolt and not 3/8 inch.

So, if you want to ride before they are available and have bent one beyond repair what do you do?

To the best of my knowledge (have not done it yet) you can press out the metal sleeve in the IQ A-arm and replace it with the sleeve from the Pro A-arm where they bolt onto the bulkhead. The OD of these two sleeves should be the same. The ball bearing on the lower A-arm is the same dimensions with the exception of the ID. Removal of the circlip located on the bottom portion of housing should allow you to press out the ball joint and replace it with the one from the damaged A-arm on the Pro. There is really nothing that you can do about the hole for the shock on the A-arm mount unless you were going to do some fab on it but as it is only .087 inch difference between the 3/8 on the IQ and 10 mil on the Pro I don't forsee any problems.

The difference between 3/8" (0.375) and 10mm (0.3937) is 0.0187

http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm

That is such a small amount that you can probably get it to fit with no modifying or you might be able to bore it just a touch with a file or bit. I would bet there is enough manufacturing tolerance that it fits with no mods.

I bet the bushing sleeve in an IQ will fit a 10mm bolt through it. You could also try to use a 3/8 bolt on all of it. Not sure if there would be enough slop to worry about.
 

WyoPro

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The difference between 3/8" (0.375) and 10mm (0.3937) is 0.0187

http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm

That is such a small amount that you can probably get it to fit with no modifying or you might be able to bore it just a touch with a file or bit. I would bet there is enough manufacturing tolerance that it fits with no mods.

I bet the bushing sleeve in an IQ will fit a 10mm bolt through it. You could also try to use a 3/8 bolt on all of it. Not sure if there would be enough slop to worry about.

Thanks for the correction man, rattling things off the top of my head...
 
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