2010 M8 Need to shim motor over and/or machine DD shaft

[krashr]

So I've blown 2 belts in 300 miles on my "new to me" 2010 M8. Using the 1.507" alignment bar my primary clutch is still 3-4 .030 shims away from touching it (so .09-.12). This is with ZERO shims behind the secondary. To fix this I can either shim the motor towards the PTO side. Or I can cut the difference and shim the motor some and machine down the DD shaft some.

Has anyone else run into this? Can anyone recommend some good engine shims? And does anyone know how much you can safely machine off the DD shaft before the secondary hits the case?

It doesn't have the original primary on it, but has anyone seen that much of a variance between primary clutch builds? (will also check with original primary to see if its closer to being in spec).

 

[clutch]

I'm betting the primary is wrong for the application. The offset between the 900 engine and the m sleds engines is quite a bit off, even though the clutches will fit either engine.

 

[krashr]

I'm not sure if its the wrong clutch, it uses the 2010 puller and uses 3 clutch weights? I have another post on this after thinking it was maybe a 2009 clutch, but apparently not. Does Arctic Cat put the primary clutch part number on the clutch itself? The part number on the cover doesn't show up when searching Arctic Cat parts sites? Or can anyone give me any obvious things to look for on this clutch?

Unless its a m1000 35mm taper clutch which I REALLY hope the prev owner didn't screw up....

Also I should rephrase my original post, I'm not sure if you can machine down the secondary post, but I'm pretty sure you can machine down the back of the secondary clutch itself.

If its a 900 primary it wouldn't use a 2010 clutch puller would it?

 

[tar]

So I've blown 2 belts in 300 miles on my "new to me" 2010 M8. Using the 1.507" alignment bar my primary clutch is still 3-4 .030 shims away from touching it (so .09-.12). This is with ZERO shims behind the secondary. To fix this I can either shim the motor towards the PTO side. Or I can cut the difference and shim the motor some and machine down the DD shaft some.

Has anyone else run into this? Can anyone recommend some good engine shims? And does anyone know how much you can safely machine off the DD shaft before the secondary hits the case?

It doesn't have the original primary on it, but has anyone seen that much of a variance between primary clutch builds? (will also check with original primary to see if its closer to being in spec).

I would put the original clutch back on and check it with the proper alinement tool, if it's still off you can take the secondary off and take it apart and machine the back of center shaft and the sheave down. I have done this to many clutches.
I would think you could push the motor mounts in or out of the plates to move the motor over a little. This would take a little more work because each motor mount holder would have to come out and the mount moved a little.

I built a tool to compress the front clutch, this tool squeezes the front clutch the belt and the rear clutch, this shows the alinement as the belt travels thru the shift. With the front clutch compressed I put a straight egde on the cluthes and check the alinement that way.
Hope that makes sense.
Tar

 

[krashr]

Thanks for the help, I'll swap clutches tonight and let you know what I find out. If anyone can help me figure out what clutch this is that would be great, part number/date on the cover is "0725-688-A 11/05/2008"

 

[sledneckai3]

I built a tool to compress the front clutch, this tool squeezes the front clutch the belt and the rear clutch, this shows the alinement as the belt travels thru the shift. With the front clutch compressed I put a straight egde on the cluthes and check the alinement that way.
Tar

Let's see a pic!!

 

[jethrobodean]

Bent and twisted bulk head? Run a string around the back of the track to front on both sides. attach the string to two heavy objects and adjust so each side of the string just touches the the front of the track and measure from the string on both sides to a center both front and rear studs. if the skis are pointing straight with the handle bars straight and there is a noticeable difference, your bulk head is fubar. I am betting that the sled took a great hit to the left side A arms.

 

[tar]

Let's see a pic!!

That's top secret! LOL.
Clue, old puller, short tube, small bearing, little work.

I can get a pic for ya.

 

[akMcat]

On my 08 M1000, to get the alignment to the spec cat finally ended up on in 2010 I had to machine down the secondary clutch. I think I ended up taking off .060 off of the inside part that butts up against the shims and bearing on the diamond drive and took off .075 off the back of the move able sheave to keep it from hitting anything. That was more than what I needed but I wanted to have at least 1 shim so it wouldn't be riding on the bearing.

 

[krashr]

I swapped clutches back to the original last night and it was closer, but still about .040 away which is almost in spec. I'm going to have BDX machine down the secondaries that I have to make them work with the newer primary. If anyone can help me out with that part number that would be great. If it uses a 2010 puller and has a 33mm taper what other motor could it have been made for??