2010 M8 clutching engages to high

[cat1m]

Hi All
I got 160 miles now on my 10 M8,{ I rely like it!] and it engages around 4500 so at low speeds in the trees etc it will disengage and reengage when you don't want it to. Also for starting out it spins and jerks to easly. My old King Cat was clutched real good you could walk beside it and move it around the shop etc. I have the stock set up 63 g weights black/ orange spring. Secondary has 36 deg with orange spring. Can I just change the primary spring to drop engagement? or do I need to do more. I mostly ride 9000-11000 ft. My old clutching wizard retired so now I'm on my own.

Please help Harry

 

[smoothdawg]

Your belt deflection is probably too loose. If it is still too high after adjusting you can get a lower initial spring rate in your primary. Call Speedwerx or SLP they should be able to help you out. Spring should be around 25 bucks is all. I have a 1000 and like mine to engage around 3000 rpm's. An 800 might need to be a little higher I don't know but the above companies will for sure.

 

[_AJ_]

I agree on the belt deflection. After my first couple rides I needed to add shims to the secondary to bring it back to spec. I will be ordering one of those quick adjusters in the near future.

I also like mine to engage at a lower rpm and crawl in the trees. For this reason I just installed a yellow/white spring in the primary and am running 70 gram weights. I ride 3K to 7K and think this will be just about right. Once I get a good full day on the snow, I'll no for sure.

 

[newtrout]

I agree on the belt deflection. After my first couple rides I needed to add shims to the secondary to bring it back to spec. I will be ordering one of those quick adjusters in the near future.

I also like mine to engage at a lower rpm and crawl in the trees. For this reason I just installed a yellow/white spring in the primary and am running 70 gram weights. I ride 3K to 7K and think this will be just about right. Once I get a good full day on the snow, I'll no for sure.

I'm currently running the yellow/white with 70s. It smoothed engagement quite a bit over stock (down closer to 4K rpm), but still nothing like running the gold spring in the older M8s. The fuel mapping on the 2010 motor doesn't like the super low engagement of the gold spring. You WILL bog on the bottom if you drop engagement too much on this motor.

 

[_AJ_]

Good call and that is what I'm hearing also. I run a gold in my wifes 06' M7 and it engages super low and smooth. Perfect for her. It was suggested that this sled might need a bit more and to try the yellow. I'm still waiting for Baker to lift a bit and I will put it to the test.

One issue I noticed on the M7 was when stuck deep, It was difficult to walk the sled out of a hole because it engaged so low that it lacked power and just smoked the belt. This was rarely an issue as I learned to just shovel a bit more first.

Newtrout, How many miles on the new sled? Is it reving a bit more yet?

 

[Cosarguy]

Good call and that is what I'm hearing also. I run a gold in my wifes 06' M7 and it engages super low and smooth. Perfect for her. It was suggested that this sled might need a bit more and to try the yellow. I'm still waiting for Baker to lift a bit and I will put it to the test.

One issue I noticed on the M7 was when stuck deep, It was difficult to walk the sled out of a hole because it engaged so low that it lacked power and just smoked the belt. This was rarely an issue as I learned to just shovel a bit more first.

Newtrout, How many miles on the new sled? Is it reving a bit more yet?

I've had good luck with the SLP Black/Yellow, part # 40/67 and Black/Silver, part # 40/66. These should drop your engagement by approx. 500 to 600 RPM and still maintain top end performance.

 

[newtrout]

Good call and that is what I'm hearing also. I run a gold in my wifes 06' M7 and it engages super low and smooth. Perfect for her. It was suggested that this sled might need a bit more and to try the yellow. I'm still waiting for Baker to lift a bit and I will put it to the test.

One issue I noticed on the M7 was when stuck deep, It was difficult to walk the sled out of a hole because it engaged so low that it lacked power and just smoked the belt. This was rarely an issue as I learned to just shovel a bit more first.

Newtrout, How many miles on the new sled? Is it reving a bit more yet?

I've got about 250 so far. With the yellow-white and 70s, I'm pulling around 8K. 8100 in lighter snow and hardpack, 7950 in heavy, wet stuff. Loving the new motor!

 

[ItDoAble]

I'm running the SLP black/red and like it in my 07 M8 (head/port/pipe/intake). Engages like butter. Not quite as low of an engagement as the AC gold. Often wondered how the gold would work with a couple of washers ..

 

[abd]

My 2010 M8 also engages at about 4500 rpm and is very jerky to drive slow in the woods with, are all 2010 M8s like this?

 

[furthur]

Yeah, I was gonna say if you like the engagement of the yellow/white, you can probably run the SLP black/yellow with little weight change, instead of stock black/orange. I liked the black/yellow, but the gold is better for the m7. I love the way SLP specs their springs...makes so much sense.

John

 

[cat1m]

I will check the belt 1st. What is the quick adjuster?????

 

[_AJ_]

I will check the belt 1st. What is the quick adjuster?????

Here's a link to a couple that AMP makes. They work great and eliminate the need to add and subtract shim washers to achieve the correct belt deflection.

http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/

I'm wondering if someone else makes one too. Anyone know?

 

[shredjim]

Here's a link to a couple that AMP makes. They work great and eliminate the need to add and subtract shim washers to achieve the correct belt deflection.

http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/

I'm wondering if someone else makes one too. Anyone know?

BDX and a few other companies make belt deflection adjusters. I have the AMP one. Be aware that with the aftermarket adjusters, you either need a track stand or you will need to run the sled some to get the belt to the proper tightness (deflection). Once you get the stock shim system correct, just bolt it on and go from then on. With an adjuster, from what I can tell - every time you do anything with the belt, you will have a belt tuning session on your hands because the threads are so fine on the adjuster I see no way to mark a setting. I just learned all about this last week. On Cat, if you don't have your belt tight enough, you engagement will be HARSH.

 

[slyrydr]

My 2010 M8 also engages at about 4500 rpm and is very jerky to drive slow in the woods with, are all 2010 M8s like this?

seems as though many do....if you look in the tool kit, there should be a gold colored shim (like a skinny washer), if you notice it's thicker than the one that's installed on the clutch....take off the bolt on the driven, pull out the adjuster, you will notice a black rubber o-ring...take it off and the thin shim also, put the thicker shim back on with the o-ring and re-assemble....should take up the slack in the belt, which will give a lower rpm and smoother engagement..

 

[AKM7]

I agree on the belt deflection. After my first couple rides I needed to add shims to the secondary to bring it back to spec. I will be ordering one of those quick adjusters in the near future.

I also like mine to engage at a lower rpm and crawl in the trees. For this reason I just installed a yellow/white spring in the primary and am running 70 gram weights. I ride 3K to 7K and think this will be just about right. Once I get a good full day on the snow, I'll no for sure.

X2 I had the same thing, after the first ride I had about 1 3/4" deflection. Added a shim and its just right!

 

[abd]

My 2010 m8 had the medium shim installed in the secondary belt adjuster, I changed that so now I have the thickest + the thinnest shims installed, belt is not as loose as before and the jerkiness seems to have decreased.