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2010 M8 Black/Orange spring breakage

I tried the SLP black/yellow which is 120/310 and felt that it burbled at engagement on through the 5-6k range. No bog but it was trying to.
I think the 140/340 will get the R's up over 8100, but I like the stock spring better than the lower start rate.
What peak RPM do you like????????????
 
will the orange white engage the same as the new cat Black/Orange?
Will the orange white raise or lower rpm's at WOT. vs. the B/O?

I am over reving already between 6000-8000'. I was easily at 8400+ at Revy. So if it lowers it a bit I would be happy. Might just have to get some heavier weights.

i know the rates are very similar but has anyone tried it?

I really like the New spring, some guys don't. but the high engagement fit's my riding style from riding 2 stoke MX bikes. I like it but I don't want it to break in the middle of a ride.
 
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Stock is 143/290

Speedwerx Red/White is 125/340

Softer on bottom harder on top.

The shift assist works really good on all 2005 and newer Cats. I also like to run (3) black preload spacers under the stock spring.

the last time i had my secondary on the bench i stuck 3 washers in the helix and it come awefully close or looks like it would coil bind close to wide open shift. i dont know what the psi would be with the extra shim in there. this is with the old style shift assist.
 
2010 primary springs

i have a 2010 M8 HCR just got back from my first major ride 4 days in revelstoke it was amazing best sled i have ever riden on but i got home and found my primary is broken ive read threads on here about them and new it was going to happen i have around 250 miles on it never new when it broke tho. main question is what are people doing to prevent this cause if its happened in the first 250 miles i dont want to be ripping my clutch apart every 250 miles my dealer is giving me a brand new spring same one black with orange stripe for free on warrenty but are people 1. putting some sort of bushing in to let it slide freely or whats going on to fix this problem. because from my understanding the spring is not spinning freely and is binding of some sort correct me if i am wrong tho thanks much and i hope we all find a fix for the problem!
 
Please correct me if I am wrong. The yellow/white is a lower engagement than the orange/white. 122lbs as opposed to 140lbs. Doesn't the 2010 M8 have a bog problem that is enhanced if you engage too low? I thought this motor had characteristics more like the M7 which was essentially a factory ported race motor. So what I am asking is if you run the yel/wht, won't that create the other problem(bog) that we are hearing about?
 
I installed a slp black orange 120 340 in my 2010 m8 stock sled it lowerd my engagment from 4400 rpm to 3800 rpm with the lower engagment I now have a bog. I dont like the high engagment but might have to live with it. im thinking cat put the higher engagment spring in so it would not bog. also have herd that adding a can will create a bog. sure would like to get rid of that suitcase.
 
You can also change the weight profile if the higher engagement "jerks". The bog (from what I hear) is because that sled doesn't really start making power until 4000rpm or so. A lot like the sleds of the 90's. Engaged high and ran at 9000rpm
 
According to Dyno charts, this sled makes peak HP at 8100 RPMs. So, what spring/weight set up will keep it in that range?
 
my spring broke in my 10 HCR dealer gave me a new one and he was thinking its whoever made these batch of black / orange didnt make them properly. even though he handed me the exact same thing on warranty. probably another 250 miles and another spring
 
According to Dyno charts, this sled makes peak HP at 8100 RPMs. So, what spring/weight set up will keep it in that range?

I just installed what should be the ticket, ill let ya know, and RACINSTATION had what i needed in stock, and i totally agree with what he thinks is wrong with the stock clutching. called him on mon, got it today

whats needed in priority order:
1- pri spring needs to be a 120/260....stock is a 120/290 i think??
2- damn shift assist
3- couple rides on a 43/36 helix, not sure yet, time will tell

if this dyno sheet is good, 7800-8000 is optimal

2010-800-dyno.gif
 
My sled runs great the way it is. Could use a 100 rpm in the powder, if anything. Just want to know what spring to use and where to get it from to replace the original. If nothing else the spring rate of the original (fact) and I will find one myself. Thanks in advance.
 
IMO, don't waste your money on the Ti springs. Though the may last longer, the shaving that come off are very abrassive on clutch components. Use the steel springs, like the H5 from Speedwerx or the stock. Sounds like the m8 likes r's at engagement, so perhaps the o/w is the ticket??? I never liked that spring personally though.
 
I tried the SLP black/yellow which is 120/310 and felt that it burbled at engagement on through the 5-6k range. No bog but it was trying to.
I think the 140/340 will get the R's up over 8100, but I like the stock spring better than the lower start rate.
What peak RPM do you like????????????

I had the same experience with the SLP 120/310. Didn't work at all for me.
Riding 6500-8000 feet. Stock 68g weights and stock helix. About 350 miles on Sno Pro 162. Switched to Cat yellow/white 120/285 which dropped engagement to 4200 rpm with little to no bog off idle...very rideable. Revs goes to a little over 8000 rpm at WOT and will build to 8150 rpm.

Tried the SLP 120/310 hoping to gain a few revs but I ended up very disappointed. Engagement dropped to 3600 rpm which made it almost unrideable and I couldn't get revs above 8000.

Switched to, what I think was an EPI 150/330???. Very stiff. Engagement went through the roof but the test was more to see if I'd gain topend revs. Was surprised to only see 8000-8050 rpm with this high finishing rate. Expected a different result with this one.

All this testing was done on same day, same hill. Not really steep and only 4-6 inches of fresh.

I'm considering going back to Cat yellow/white and dropping 1-1.5 grams of weight. Should I be looking at the helix instead?
 
Just because some says their spring is X doesnt mean it is that # Measure them your selves !!!You have to look at the measured heights of the spring especially from SLP as they measure everything at polaris spring heights ,,which on some springs amount to around a 10-20# More on top and 10-15 # more on engagement Im using a polaris spring( real short one ) in my 2010-m-8 and they rate it at 110-330 and the cat measurement is 105-310 and my engagement with a HPS can is around 3900-4000 and final at 8050-8100 running 65G stock secondary NO BOG riding the snowies at
8-11K My tuning box is full of springs and I dont look at the colors any more only the tag from where I measured them,, some of the long springs will coil bind in a cat clutch and will stop shifting on top
 
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broken primary

i noticed a low engagement at 500 miles,broken primary on my 2010 crossfire sno pro 800 le.black/org spring
i replaceed with a yellow/wht and now 4300 rpm engagement and top end 8150-8200,no bogs at all.
i got rid of the suitcase at the same time.SLP shaved 12 lbs off of the 23lb stock can.
sled pulls hard i'm very happy with it.

Picture 874.jpg
 
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