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2010 HO head on 09 M8 turbo?

M

mynewuseddoo

Well-known member
Hey guys I'm looking for some insight and opinions,

I'm throwing around the idea of putting a 2010 head on my 09 M8 turbo. If I do decide to try this, I will be using a Boondocker Timing Module and I have different pipe options to play with as well.

I am thinking it would provide more snap on the bottom end and more pull through the top also.

Any thoughts, info, or experiences welcome.

Thanks guys.
 
From what I understand, quite a few people have done this and are very happy with the results. I just put a 2010 head on my '09 and I am awaiting the timing control module form BD.
 
I thought most went the other way and put the 09 head on the 10. Compression goes way up when you a force feeding the air.
 
I thought most went the other way and put the 09 head on the 10. Compression goes way up when you a force feeding the air.

Yes the 10 head is higher compression, more power. The boondocker timing key removes 3* on the top end allowing you to run less octane at a given boost pressure. I am running 10 psi now. If I can run the same boost with the same mixture of fuel, or close to it, with the higher compression head, this will generate more power. With the higher compression 2010 head, 8 psi might produce more power than 10 psi produces with my stock 09 head.
 
Even if at the same boost it was the same power the biggest benefit would be if it help the bottom end, IMO.
 
I don't quite understand other than u can run lower octane and have better bottom end
If u retard the timing u lose power if u install a 09 head u get more bottom end im trying to justify buying it
 
Yes, the bottom end would be where the improvement is. Pulling timing will reduce peak power to avoid detonation. Dropping the compression ratio allows a higher amount of induction pressure to be used, meaning a greater volume of fuel and air can be squeezed into the cylinder. This results in a big increase in torque and power - as long as that volume is being delivered. When it's 'off boost' then the engine is relying on a lower amount (and pressure) of air coming in, which results in less power. A low compression engine with big induction pressure will perform very poorly 'off boost'. A higher compression engine with low induction pressure will perform much better 'off boost' because it still has its own natural compression to generate power. A low compression, big boost engine will make an insane amount of top end power whereas the same sized engine with higher compression and lower boost will be very torquey low down, but won't make as much top end power. power potential is based primarily on your ability to burn fuel, and that is directly proportional to the amount of oxygen that you have in the cylinder
 
I think some of you are lost???
The 09 head is lower compression the '10 head is higher compression.
where talking about increasing the compression on a 09 to increase the hp (base hp) to get more power.
Pulling timing on a NA motor may mean less hp but a boosted motor is way different and no matter where the timing is if you can run more boost on the same octane you are still up power.
If you just left the 09 system alone and only installed the head you would have to drop boost because of deto, with the bd module you should be able to run the higher compression head and maintain boost level with a better bottom end and more on top.
 
When increasing compression on a turbo, at some point you will see deto, regardless of your timing. So be careful. Look at any signs of deto on the sparkplugs when testing..
I would keep the 09 head and work with the timing instead, maybe a 1,5 degree advance timing key? Then you will get a better low rpm performance and still have 1.5 degree retard att high rpm.
 
Yes, the bottom end would be where the improvement is. Pulling timing will reduce peak power to avoid detonation. Dropping the compression ratio allows a higher amount of induction pressure to be used, meaning a greater volume of fuel and air can be squeezed into the cylinder. This results in a big increase in torque and power - as long as that volume is being delivered. When it's 'off boost' then the engine is relying on a lower amount (and pressure) of air coming in, which results in less power. A low compression engine with big induction pressure will perform very poorly 'off boost'. A higher compression engine with low induction pressure will perform much better 'off boost' because it still has its own natural compression to generate power. A low compression, big boost engine will make an insane amount of top end power whereas the same sized engine with higher compression and lower boost will be very torquey low down, but won't make as much top end power. power potential is based primarily on your ability to burn fuel, and that is directly proportional to the amount of oxygen that you have in the cylinder

I run about 2-3 psi higher than my buddies 2011 m8 turbo in order to run neck and neck with his sled. Same kit, same clutching, same track, same gearing, same size riders. Even though the timing is pulled back, I am still going to be producing more compression and final pressure in my cylinders than with my stock head.

I'm currently running a 50/50 av premium mix. I will start with straight av and see how that goes. The straight av was doggy on the bottom end with my current setup but this might change with the tighter head, I'm sure even running an 80/20 or perhaps even a 90/10 av to premium mix would clean the bottom end up considerably and still give me a safe octane level. I'll have to test this.

Again, thanks a lot guys for the insight and suggestions.
 
S_P brings up a good point,

Before I did anything I would get a hold of cutler and tell him your thinking, he may know exactly how to cut the head to increase everything. Av gas is going to be your killer, I could only run 6-7lbs at 8-10000ft on pump but only 2 gal of av I was running 9-10lbs. But you can sure tell the low end drops off. Make me lean toward trying boost juice or mixing true race gas. Or that new push system where you can really change timing and open the PV's at any setting looks very promising.

Call cutler and try to get some insight we may not be seeing.
 
So what was the effect on running the '10 head with the 3* timing module?
 
2010 head, 100 LL, 10-12 psi boost, 6000+feet, no timing key installed, runs just fine. Better bottom end and felt more solid on top. 09 pipe is better on the bottom end than 2010 pipe. Anyone wanna buy my Boony e-timing key? Never used lol.
 
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