Has any one just simply cut the head on the cleanfire motor? It seems to me that at 10k+ ft an extra point of compression would sure be nice.
2010 800 dragon rmk head milling
- Thread starter Hoff1989
- Start date
I have a milled head and stock pipe modification (and heavier weights). I'm always skeptical when I hear about people reporting gains from pipe or other mods. But I can tell you that I have seen very impressive gains from this modification. Very snappy down low and pulls very hard. I was told by a reliable source that this gain is a solid 10-12 HP and that some have choosen this mod over the SLP twins for a better powerband and not having to run race fuel.
The problem with this setup is that I have to run the stock D8 map (not the 2010 update map). The more recent mapping from Polaris has a very sensitive detonation sensor and the sled would go into limp mode too quickly. I also run about 5:1 race fuel or a gallon or two each time I fuel up. That is to make sure I'm not dealing with bad gas. The other issue is that this setup is a little more touchy and I don't see the same stock consistancy. Sometimes my powervalves up a little slower and I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the head mod or not.
Overall, with my camo extreme track, this sled really hooks up hard and runs extremely well. Be careful though, it's not as pull and go as stock is.
The problem with this setup is that I have to run the stock D8 map (not the 2010 update map). The more recent mapping from Polaris has a very sensitive detonation sensor and the sled would go into limp mode too quickly. I also run about 5:1 race fuel or a gallon or two each time I fuel up. That is to make sure I'm not dealing with bad gas. The other issue is that this setup is a little more touchy and I don't see the same stock consistancy. Sometimes my powervalves up a little slower and I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the head mod or not.
Overall, with my camo extreme track, this sled really hooks up hard and runs extremely well. Be careful though, it's not as pull and go as stock is.
CUTTING HEADS
Take some "soft" solder and twist 2 strands together, bend it into an "L" configuration with the short leg approx 1 1/2" long
Insert into the spark plug hole IN-LINE with the wrist pin and rotate the engine over, remove and mike the squished solder
.045" IS THE MINIMUM I would want to see, I.M.O.
Typically I've cut heads .020" at lower elevation (1200') for trail riding on PUMP gas with positive results (3000+ miles no problems)
Hope this helps
Take some "soft" solder and twist 2 strands together, bend it into an "L" configuration with the short leg approx 1 1/2" long
Insert into the spark plug hole IN-LINE with the wrist pin and rotate the engine over, remove and mike the squished solder
.045" IS THE MINIMUM I would want to see, I.M.O.
Typically I've cut heads .020" at lower elevation (1200') for trail riding on PUMP gas with positive results (3000+ miles no problems)
Hope this helps
