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Gathering info on the changes made from 09 to 11 M8s.
Weights?
Power?
Seats?
Tracks?
Fixes?
Issues?
Mods to consider?
Mods to stay away from?
And all other related info.
Thanks!
![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Also, any specific differences between SnoPro and non-SP. I see the obvious difference, shocks..much more beyond that?
EDIT2: Gathered more SP vs non-SP info, along w/ HCR differences.
Good info HERE with 2010 model differences (scroll down to "The Models" section).
EDIT1: Just found a bit of info here: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246320
EDIT3: Collected a bunch of info in the last few days after hours of reading/searching... Hope it helps someone.
By no means is it complete, let me know if you have other "fix" options, and I'll add them. As well as additional "issues".
Issues & Fixes:
* DD Bearing (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151644)
- Fix: 5203 bearing from BDX (http://bd-xtreme.com/xtremebrearing5203.aspx)
* bulkhead cracking @ lower steering post mount (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214945)
- Possible Fix: (http://www.backcountryrebels.com/cl...teering-post2f-bulkhead-crack-repair-kit.html)
* some tracks rub on DD housing (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196052)
- Fix: requires cutting the nubs and track clips on the DD side on some tracks (CE, Attack 20, etc [non-PC tracks])
* oil tank neck warpage/leaky oil tank (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211633)
- Fix1: aluminum oil tank insert (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2262482&postcount=44)
- Fix2: custom RKT oil tank cap (http://www.2strokeheads.com/othercustom.htm)
* anti-stab wheel kit
- Fix: BDX anti-stab wheel kit (http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxblackdiamondanti-stabkit07-up.aspx)
* sticking oil pump (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168851)
- Fix: resolve by using a 'return spring' to pull the pump back to closed when off throttle..or some suggest to just 'ride around it' and snap the throttle back.
* broken primary spring (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188252)
- Fix1: springs: cutlers gld/wht (135-305), D&D white (135-330), SLP blk/pnk (120/340), AC yel/wht (122/285), pol 105-320
- Fix2: put a delrin, stainless steel, nylon, or Glide washer in the cup, such that the spring seats on the washer (http://www.thunderproducts.com/glide_washer.htm)
* low end bog (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187349)
- Fix: clutching (due to low engagement RPM?), sticking oil pump?, fueling (due to mods?)
* hard steering (http://www.backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=9038&page=3)
- Possible Fix: http://www.backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=9038&page=3
* broken hood tabs (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148573)
- Fix1: custom mount(s) (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148573)
- Fix2: self tapping screw(s)
* track hitting coolant hoses in tunnel (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247303)
- Fix: install protector from 2011 HCR (P/N 5606-576 & 5606-577)
* won't start after a day of riding, and sitting outside over night (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247497)
- Fix: Pull w/ WOT a bunch of times. Heet in gas. Hook up a battery to the fuel pump & wire it backwards.
* leaking antifreeze from front of tunnel (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242352)
- Fix: replace clamp (requires removing seat, gas tank, skid, and drilling rivets to remove 'guard') [normal screw-type stainless hose clamp suggested]
Weights?
Power?
Seats?
Tracks?
Fixes?
Issues?
Mods to consider?
Mods to stay away from?
And all other related info.
Thanks!
Also, any specific differences between SnoPro and non-SP. I see the obvious difference, shocks..much more beyond that?
EDIT2: Gathered more SP vs non-SP info, along w/ HCR differences.
Good info HERE with 2010 model differences (scroll down to "The Models" section).
SP vs non-SP, SP has:
* adjustable height bar riser
* deluxe gauge (w/ altimeter & temp display)
* Float shocks
HCR differences:
* wide front end (42-44" ski stance vs 39-41")
* stiffer track (90 durometer)
* titanium springed front shocks
* narrower skis (w/ deeper, more aggressive keel)
EDIT1: Just found a bit of info here: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246320
09 - PowderClaw track, electronic reverse, updated rear tunnel/bumper
10 - 800 HO engine (10% more power [160-163 HP] per AC)
11 - same as 10 w/ different shock valving [for 'smoother' ride]
EDIT3: Collected a bunch of info in the last few days after hours of reading/searching... Hope it helps someone.
By no means is it complete, let me know if you have other "fix" options, and I'll add them. As well as additional "issues".
Issues & Fixes:
* DD Bearing (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151644)
- Fix: 5203 bearing from BDX (http://bd-xtreme.com/xtremebrearing5203.aspx)
* bulkhead cracking @ lower steering post mount (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214945)
- Possible Fix: (http://www.backcountryrebels.com/cl...teering-post2f-bulkhead-crack-repair-kit.html)
* some tracks rub on DD housing (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196052)
- Fix: requires cutting the nubs and track clips on the DD side on some tracks (CE, Attack 20, etc [non-PC tracks])
* oil tank neck warpage/leaky oil tank (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211633)
- Fix1: aluminum oil tank insert (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2262482&postcount=44)
- Fix2: custom RKT oil tank cap (http://www.2strokeheads.com/othercustom.htm)
* anti-stab wheel kit
- Fix: BDX anti-stab wheel kit (http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxblackdiamondanti-stabkit07-up.aspx)
* sticking oil pump (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168851)
- Fix: resolve by using a 'return spring' to pull the pump back to closed when off throttle..or some suggest to just 'ride around it' and snap the throttle back.
* broken primary spring (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188252)
- Fix1: springs: cutlers gld/wht (135-305), D&D white (135-330), SLP blk/pnk (120/340), AC yel/wht (122/285), pol 105-320
- Fix2: put a delrin, stainless steel, nylon, or Glide washer in the cup, such that the spring seats on the washer (http://www.thunderproducts.com/glide_washer.htm)
* low end bog (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187349)
- Fix: clutching (due to low engagement RPM?), sticking oil pump?, fueling (due to mods?)
* hard steering (http://www.backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=9038&page=3)
- Possible Fix: http://www.backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=9038&page=3
* broken hood tabs (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148573)
- Fix1: custom mount(s) (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148573)
- Fix2: self tapping screw(s)
* track hitting coolant hoses in tunnel (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247303)
- Fix: install protector from 2011 HCR (P/N 5606-576 & 5606-577)
* won't start after a day of riding, and sitting outside over night (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247497)
- Fix: Pull w/ WOT a bunch of times. Heet in gas. Hook up a battery to the fuel pump & wire it backwards.
* leaking antifreeze from front of tunnel (http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242352)
- Fix: replace clamp (requires removing seat, gas tank, skid, and drilling rivets to remove 'guard') [normal screw-type stainless hose clamp suggested]
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