Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2008 M8 wont rev over 6,000 RPM

I was riding the other day pulling a hill when all of a sudden to started cutting out. It won't rev at all over 6000 rpm. I checked the servo motor and its not opening. I have cleaned the valves, adjusted the cables, swapped a known good servo, tested coils, checked for grounding wires under the tank, checked all electrical plugs for corrosion, swapped can for stock muffler and nothing is fixing it. Also there is no light coming on on the cluster.
Any suggestions? It hasn't skipped a beat till now!!
Also is runs perfect under 6000 rpm and idles perfect..
 
Are the valves opening since the servo change? And both cables are moving freely?
 
have you checked fuel pressure/flow I had some issues with fuel pickups that had collapsed and limiting fuel. I thought it might be the ECU but turned out to be the fuel pick ups
 
If the servo motor is working it will cycle just after startup. Check fuel pressure. Should be 42-47psi. I thought mine was a power valve problem at first when it wouldn't go past 6000rpm but realized it was actually pushing way too much fuel. Regulator inside pump broke.
 
Ill check fuel pressure. Where is a good place to check? Just at the feed at the rail? And yes the servo does cycle on startup. The cables are perfect and free. Also adjusted at 35mm.
What does it act like in limp mode? And is there typically a check engine light for that? I have not seen it come on at all!!
One more thing, it does it on the snow, on a stand with the belt on and also with the belt removed.. Acts like a limiter at 6000
 
well unplug taillight harness above brake rotor and unplug handlebar harness and leave them unplugged and try it..(kill switch will be disabled so be careful )..

other then that..test stator...check reeds...and smart valves in tank..

ps...try retaining your power valves open and try it ..it will be a dog at first but if its power valves it should rev past 6000 if you have them restrained open..
 
Last edited:
Im starting to think either CCU or ECU. Anyway to test either of those? And i have unplugged the taillight wiring, no change.. Also whats a good test for the stator? I have only found a test for the yellow wires for the lighting coil..
Thank you!!!
 
Testing Electrical
Resistances
(800/1000 cc Models)
NOTE: Resistance tests of the engine electrical
components should be made using the Fluke Multimeter
only. Analog-style multitesters may not be
accurate enough to use in these critical tests.
Replace any component that does not have a test
value within specifications.
IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU to
the ignition coil.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/white lead;
then connect the black meter lead to the white/blue
lead.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
0.24-0.36 ohm.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
AK050D
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be between
5040-7560 ohms.
CHARGE COIL (1)
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the main wiring
harness to the magneto.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/red wire in
the plug; then connect the black meter lead to the
green/red wire in the plug.
AK014
4. Charge coil (1) resistance must be between 7.20-
10.8 ohms.
CHARGE COIL (2)
1. Disconnect the triple-wire plug from the ECU to
the magneto.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the brown/white
wire in the plug; then connect the black meter lead
to the green/red wire in the plug.
4. Charge coil (2) resistance must be between 7.20-
10.8 ohms.
LIGHTING COIL
1. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the
engine.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the two meter leads to each of the yellow
leads in the connector from the engine.
AK015
4. Lighting coil resistance must be between 0.08-
0.12 ohm.
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR
1. Disconnect the two timing sensor connectors
(blue/white and brown/green - #1) and (green/
white and brown/green - #2) from the ECU.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position; then connect
the meter leads to the sensor leads.
3. Ignition timing sensor resistance must be between
148-222 ohms.
SPARK-PLUG CAP
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each end
of the spark-plug cap.
B170
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between 4000-
6000 ohms.
IGNITION SWITCH
1. Remove the main wiring harness connectors from
the ignition switch.
2. Rotate the key to the OFF position.
3. The meter must read less than 1 ohm resistance
between the ignition switch terminals.
4. Rotate the key to the RUN position.
5. The meter must read OL (infinite resistance).



Chassis Control
Unit Voltage Test
(EFI Models)
NOTE: The following test should be made using
MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041) and the Fluke Model 73
Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale.
NOTE: Test specifications are on the Electrical
Specifications (individual) pages in this section.
NOTE: The CCU tests were made with the connectors
plugged in, spark plugs removed and
grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope
briskly.
LOW POWER
1. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the
red/blue lead of the connector; then connect the
black maxiclip and meter lead to the black lead of
the connector.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly.
3. Meter reading must be within specification.
Repeat test three times to confirm results.
HIGH POWER
1. Connect the red maxiclip and meter lead to the
red/black lead; then connect the black maxiclip
and meter lead to the black lead.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly.
3. Meter reading must be within specification.
NOTE: Repeat this test three times to confirm


Peak Voltage Tests
(800/1000 cc Models)
NOTE: The following tests should be made using
the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) set to
the DC Volt scale with Peak Voltage Reading
Adapter (p/n 0644-307). For “engine running” test,
use MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041).
NOTE: Peak voltage test specifications are on the
Electrical Specifications (Individual) pages in this
section.
The Fluke Multimeter w/Adapter can perform the following
output tests.
A. Fuel Pump Coil
B. Injector Coil
C. Charge Coil (1) Output
D. Charge Coil (2) Output
E. Ignition Timing Sensor (1 and 2)
F. Primary Coil Output (MAG/PTO)
G. Lighting Coil Output
NOTE: Peak Voltage Tests (unless otherwise indicated)
were made with connectors unplugged
(except on primary coil test), spark plugs removed
and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter
rope briskly.
FUEL PUMP COIL
1. Test between the two orange wires in the fourprong
connector from the stator.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
INJECTOR COIL
1. Test between the two blue/white leads in the connector
harness from the stator plate.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
CHARGE COIL (1) OUTPUT
1. Test between the black/red and green/red wires in
the triple-plug connector from the stator.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
CHARGE COIL (2) OUTPUT
1. Test between the brown/white and green/red wires
in the triple-plug connector from the stator.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
IGNITION TIMING SENSOR (1 and 2)
1. Test between the blue/white (1) or the green/white
(2) and brown/green wires in the connector from
the sensor.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
PRIMARY COIL OUTPUT (MAG/PTO)
1. Connect the red meter lead to the orange/red wire
(MAG) or to the white/red wire (PTO); then connect
the black meter lead to the orange/black wire
(MAG) or to the white/black wire (PTO).
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT
1. Connect the red meter lead to one yellow wire;
then connect the black meter lead to the other yellow
wire.
2. Pull the recoil starter rope briskly. Meter reading
must be within specification.
LIGHTING COIL OUTPUT (@ 2000
RPM)
1. Attach the red maxiclip to the yellow lead; then
attach the black maxiclip to the brown lead.
2. Connect the red meter lead to the red maxiclip;
then connect the black meter lead to the black
maxiclip.
3. With the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand, run the engine at 2000 RPM.
4. Meter reading must be within specification


Specifications
(800/1000 cc Models)
NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).
* Main harness plugged in
Peak Voltage Tests were made at room temperature with the MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041), Fluke Model 73 Multimeter
(p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale, and the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). Also, the main
harness connectors must be unplugged (except on primary coil/CCU tests), the spark plugs removed and grounded,
and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
Description Resistance Test
Test Value + Test Connections -
Ignition Coil
Primary
Secondary
0.24-0.36 ohm
5040-7560 ohms
black/white
high tension wire
white/blue
high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 7.20-10.8 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 7.20-10.8 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohms yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 148-222 ohms blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 142-222 ohms green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Chassis Control Unit* 10-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power)
red/black (high power)
brown (low power)
black (high power)
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise)
black/red (counterclockwise)
red/black (clockwise)
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Coolant Temperature Sensor Open
(coolant temperature lower than 190°F)
terminal ground
Up to 20 ohms
(coolant temperature higher than 230°F)
terminal ground
Coolant Temperature Warning Light Less than 10 ohms terminal terminal
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
MAG Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 125-137V orange/red orange/black
PTO Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 126-139V white/red white/black
Charge Coil (1) 13.6-14.8 black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 13.5-14.6 brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 5.4-5.8V yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 4.3V blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 4.4V green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 12V blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 12.3V orange orange
Lighting Coil 14.8-22.2V (@ 2000 RPM) yellow brown
 
Throttle Position
Sensor
(EFI Models)
NOTE: Ignition timing specifications are located
on the Electrical Specifications Chart in this section.
TESTING TPS
When checking ignition timing, it is important that the
timing light be connected to the number 1 spark plug
wire, which is the MAG-side cylinder. If the number 2
cylinder spark plug wire is used, the timing light may
show a 2° error in ignition timing when ignition timing
is actually correct.
For example, the correct ignition timing on the 500 cc
is 12° ± 2° BTDC at 2000 RPM.
To quickly check TPS operation, measure the timing
according to the chart; then disconnect the TPS wiring
and recheck the timing. A system with a functioning
TPS will show a change in the timing. This is known
as “Fail-Safe Ignition Timing” and is built into the system
to protect the engine should the TPS fail. If this
change is not seen, the TPS may have failed and must
be checked
If the ignition timing isn’t 12° ± 2° at 2000 RPM, the
TPS should be checked for proper adjustment using
the Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment Tool Kit (p/n
3639-891) and a digital voltmeter.
VERIFYING TPS ADJUSTMENT
TOOL
Before using the TPS adjustment tool, verify its battery
condition. The battery used in the tool is a 9-volt
battery. To check battery condition, use a digital volt/
ohmmeter set on DC volt scale. Test between the
adjustment tool black and red jacks. Insert the red lead
of the digital voltmeter into the red jack of the adjustment
tool and the black lead of the digital voltmeter
into the black jack of the adjustment tool. The green
power light of the analyzer should now be illuminated.
If voltage is found below 4.9 volts, replace the battery.
NOTE: The battery used in the tool is a 9-volt battery;
also, the Test Harness (p/n 0686-999) must be
plugged into the analyzer for testing voltage.
CHECKING TPS
NOTE: If the snowmobile is in warranty, breaking
the seal on the idle screw jam nut or the Phillipshead
screws on the TPS will void warranty. If the
TPS is tested out of specification, the throttle
assembly must be replaced.
NOTE: Before using the TPS adjustment tool,
verify its battery condition.
1. Using Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment
Tool Kit (p/n 3639-891), connect its wiring harness
to the TPS. Connect the red and black digital
voltmeter leads to the white and black jacks of the
TPS adjustment tool.
2. Ensure that the throttle cable/control rod has the
proper amount of free-play.
3. With the throttle in the idle position, compare the
reading on the voltmeter to the chart. If the reading
is within prescribed specification, proceed to step 4


Engine Idle Position Wide-Open Position
500 cc 0.714-0.814 3.507-4.014
600/800 cc 0.646-0.754V 3.472-4.0485V
1000 cc 0.595-0.695V 3.477-4.054V


4. Compress the throttle lever slowly to the full-open
position. The meter reading should show a smooth
rise in voltage all the way to the full-open throttle
position. If the voltage seems to be erratic or
doesn’t meet the prescribed specification, repeat
this procedure several times to confirm results.
5. If the full-open throttle voltage remains erratic or
out of specification; replace the throttle body
assembly.
6. If the TPS is within the prescribed specification,
disconnect the adjustment tool harness from the
TPS. Connect the snowmobile TPS harness to the
TPS.
NOTE: Before installing the TPS harness connector,
apply dielectric grease to the connector pins.
FAIL-SAFE IGNITION TIMING
Engines equipped with throttle position sensor have a
protective feature called “fail-safe” ignition timing
which prevents engine damage should the TPS fail. If
the TPS does fail, the engine will run normally at low
RPM but will run poorly at high RPM. This will allow
the operator to get the snowmobile to safety with little
or no engine damage.
NOTE: The engine will continue to operate this
way until the TPS is replaced.
 
I think it should be the same year/same displacement...you can go to a parts fiche..Alpha Sports..Oregon Trail etc to figure out same part numbers etc..but like I said the symbols can be mixed..
 
I really don't want to put a new ccu and ecu and have them go out again. But I can not find any shorts for the life of me. Could the ccu or ecu randomly go out? I know 08 had a recall on the ecu and this one has not been changed..
Thanks guys!
 
Premium Features



Back
Top