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2008 honda Rubicon problem!

T

Thunderguy BOOSTED

Well-known member
Hey!

my dad has a 2008 honda Rubicon trail, it has 3760 kms on it! And what it is doing is when you turn the key on and you put it in gear a screen comes on where your current gear position should be, and it says
---
D1
D2
ESP

Some one please help!

justin:o
 
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i had one a couple yrs ago but don't remember much. there is a dial that you can pick elec shift or 2 versions of auto. 1 for work and one a bit more sporty.
thats what those letters stand for on the display
 
i had one a couple yrs ago but don't remember much. there is a dial that you can pick elec shift or 2 versions of auto. 1 for work and one a bit more sporty.
thats what those letters stand for on the display

Yes i know that!
but all three should NOT be up at the same time!
it should say D1 if iam in D1, or D2 if iam in D2, or ESP if iam in ESP:(
Ok so lets say iam runing in D2 (which is auto high range) it will read D2 and if the RPM get to high a little hand will come up!
It also will not shift! It has one gear that it is in all the time!(which is so god dam! low you cant do anything)
You get one gear forward and revers!
NOTHING ELSE HAPPENS!!:(:(

Please help!
i dont want to take it to the Honda dealer because i know i will spent $300 with out even looking back!
 
Either the gear sensor crapped out or most likely has a broken spring in the gearcase.
 
Sounds like you should get ahold of gimpster on here, I have not seen him in awhile but he would probaly know what the problem is I think he owns a shop and works on alittle bit of everything.
 
Try clearing the codes. The Rubicon has a swash hydrostatic drive in it the swash plate is controlled electronically for speeds and shifting ratios. Only gears are in in the sub transmission for high and low range. the 'gears' are actuelly only regulated fluid drive. The -- shows there is a problem. Count it's flashes of the -- before doing anything. A code is displayed like example 2 quick flashes, a few seconds of pause then the code will repeat again. This is a 2 code then. The ECM can store 9 codes in it's memory. It will display 3 at a time after doing this proceedure.
- Key off, depress and hold both up and down shift switches at the same time
- turn the key on and release the switches, depress both at the same time again.
This will bring up the first set of 3 codes. to clear them, while flashing codes, depress and hold the up/down shift switches at the same time while they are flashing. Once the set of codes are cleared, do the key off and key on deal again to check for more codes. Clear them (remember the codes). You should have to do this 3 times to clear all nine codes if that many are present.
Now, depress the up/down shift switch with key off, turn on the switch and release the up/down switches, in a few seconds of releasing, depress these in this order, up switch, release it, down switch, release it, throttle wide open and let off. You should hear the shift control motor cycle as the ECM takes and stores all electronic readings. the process is called initializing and only works on Rubicons, Rincons and 400 Ranchers with hydro trannys.

If the issue still exists, post here the codes it flashes and I will break them down for you to help diagnose the problem.

Most issues are related to wire connectors ahead and inside the rear fenderwell, shift motor or it's connection, or the angle sensor. The angle sensor is under the left plastic engine cover and should not be removed as it has to be preloaded during reinstall.

Also since this is an '08, I would have to double check if it has the newer style data link connector to attatch the ecm to the Honda HDS (diagnostic tool) I don't think they do. If it does there is a few wires in the data link connector that can be crossed or grounded in sequence to reset the ecm or pull codes off the display (speedo).

I will inform you though that if the display flashes like 11 or more times constantly that the ECM internal relay is tripping. Also if it lights and stays lit (the -- on the display) most likely is a gear position switch issue with the before mentioned connectors, ecm connector or the switch itself which requires rear engine cover removal to replace. Quite a job if it is the first time you have ever done it.

I just read this whole post again. I met a guy in Irvine Texas once at Honda's training facility who's nickname was gimpster. Does anyone know if that is him or how I can get ahold of him if this is the same guy ?
 
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OK!
the little sign comes on sits there for about 2 seconds, then it flashes 5 times and then goes off for about 3 seconds!

Let me know!

Justin
:ooh also when you put it in revers it tends to miss fire! (but only in revers)
Try clearing the codes. The Rubicon has a swash hydrostatic drive in it the swash plate is controlled electronically for speeds and shifting ratios. Only gears are in in the sub transmission for high and low range. the 'gears' are actuelly only regulated fluid drive. The -- shows there is a problem. Count it's flashes of the -- before doing anything. A code is displayed like example 2 quick flashes, a few seconds of pause then the code will repeat again. This is a 2 code then. The ECM can store 9 codes in it's memory. It will display 3 at a time after doing this proceedure.
- Key off, depress and hold both up and down shift switches at the same time
- turn the key on and release the switches, depress both at the same time again.
This will bring up the first set of 3 codes. to clear them, while flashing codes, depress and hold the up/down shift switches at the same time while they are flashing. Once the set of codes are cleared, do the key off and key on deal again to check for more codes. Clear them (remember the codes). You should have to do this 3 times to clear all nine codes if that many are present.
Now, depress the up/down shift switch with key off, turn on the switch and release the up/down switches, in a few seconds of releasing, depress these in this order, up switch, release it, down switch, release it, throttle wide open and let off. You should hear the shift control motor cycle as the ECM takes and stores all electronic readings. the process is called initializing and only works on Rubicons, Rincons and 400 Ranchers with hydro trannys.

If the issue still exists, post here the codes it flashes and I will break them down for you to help diagnose the problem.

Most issues are related to wire connectors ahead and inside the rear fenderwell, shift motor or it's connection, or the angle sensor. The angle sensor is under the left plastic engine cover and should not be removed as it has to be preloaded during reinstall.

Also since this is an '08, I would have to double check if it has the newer style data link connector to attatch the ecm to the Honda HDS (diagnostic tool) I don't think they do. If it does there is a few wires in the data link connector that can be crossed or grounded in sequence to reset the ecm or pull codes off the display (speedo).

I will inform you though that if the display flashes like 11 or more times constantly that the ECM internal relay is tripping. Also if it lights and stays lit (the -- on the display) most likely is a gear position switch issue with the before mentioned connectors, ecm connector or the switch itself which requires rear engine cover removal to replace. Quite a job if it is the first time you have ever done it.

I just read this whole post again. I met a guy in Irvine Texas once at Honda's training facility who's nickname was gimpster. Does anyone know if that is him or how I can get ahold of him if this is the same guy ?
 
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Code 5 is shift control motor lock. Pull the shift control motor off the front of the engine (the only electrical motor there is on the front left of the engine). Inside the hole where it was removed is a gear. with a screwdriver, don't force it, move the gear. Motor lock can be caused by the ecm getting confused and running the swash plate to the end of it's travel and thinking it has more travel to go via ohm spec stored in the ecm when initialized last time. One way the gear, it will be stuck, hence it threw the unit into default mode. once you find which direction it will spin, keep turning it counting your turns until it stops, go back half the turns and install the shift control motor. Something made the unit go into this motor lock. Bad angle sensor or moisture in the connections, bad ecm etc...
Just do like I said, reinstall the shift control motor and read above where I mentioned initialize the ecm (key off, hold up/down shift buttons, key on, let off the shift buttons and within a few seconds of letting off, depress in this order up, down, complete throttle sweep)
Let me know if it trips the code again or if it is good to go.
The popping in reverse is because the ecm has gone into default mode. What Honda conciders it a limp in mode so the unit can be limped in with no more damage to other components.
Keep me posted I will help as much as I can
 
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WOW Thanks!!

Ill wait till my dad get home before i try any thing!

Justin:D:D
Code 5 is shift control motor lock. Pull the shift control motor off the front of the engine (the only electrical motor there is on the front left of the engine). Inside the hole where it was removed is a gear. with a screwdriver, don't force it, move the gear. Motor lock can be caused by the ecm getting confused and running the swash plate to the end of it's travel and thinking it has more travel to go via ohm spec stored in the ecm when initialized last time. One way the gear, it will be stuck, hence it threw the unit into default mode. once you find which direction it will spin, keep turning it counting your turns until it stops, go back half the turns and install the shift control motor. Something made the unit go into this motor lock. Bad angle sensor or moisture in the connections, bad ecm etc...
Just do like I said, reinstall the shift control motor and read above where I mentioned initialize the ecm (key off, hold up/down shift buttons, key on, let off the shift buttons and within a few seconds of letting off, depress in this order up, down, complete throttle sweep)
Let me know if it trips the code again or if it is good to go.
The popping in reverse is because the ecm has gone into default mode. What Honda conciders it a limp in mode so the unit can be limped in with no more damage to other components.
Keep me posted I will help as much as I can
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPS View Post
Glad I could pass on the info

hope it helps

so have a great day !

ok so I got the little motor off but the
little fu$$ing gear won't turn!!(on the inside)

help
 
http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/hondamatic/p5.html

Look at the cutaway of the transmission assembly. not of the engine.
Enlarge it.
They show the shift control motor mounted to the end of the swash transmission assembly. Identify the gears which the shift control motor turn. They lead to a shaft with heavy threads which run horizontal along the picture. This shaft controls the angle of the swash plate (the arm that is at an angle in the image). When there is an electronic failure, the ECM loses it's readings and will run this heavy threaded shaft until the swash plate hits the end of it's travel. The ECM will not identify this as the end of the travel by a faulse reading from the angle sensor and will try to continue moving the plate causing what is called 'motor lock'. Normally the shift control motor removal and spinning the swash plate back to center and reinitializing the ECM will cure the problem. The issue can be deeper as I have seen bearings on the end of the heavy threaded swash plate shaft go out or get metal shavings in them. Little more detail, the swash plate (the one in the picture at an angle) controls a bunch of pistons within the big end. The pistons are best described as bullets in the chamber of a pistol (revolver) only free float in the back side instead of having a dead head like a bullet does to keep the bullet from sliding through the chamber. Hydralic fluid keeps these pistons pressed against the swash plate. By varying the angle of the swash plate as the tranny spins, this causes dofferent ratios to be obtained through the output shaft.
Weather it be heat or debris from dirty oil, the pressure relief valve inside the oil pump will fail or the rotors in the oil pump become scored. Low oil pressure through one port on the oil pump feeding the transmission (since it actually is a pump via piston movement as it varies from passing around the swash plate) causes the bushings to wear extreemly fast around the pistons. The sides of the pistons begin to flake their chrome and go through the transmission bearings. When the shavings are picked up in the swash plate control shaft bearings this is what happens....
The transmission as it shifts through the hydrostatic controlled gearing during acceleration will bind bearings from shavings in the heavy threaded swash plat shaft. The ECM sees this "Stutter" in ohm reading through the angle sensor which reads the swash plate. When the ECM reads this as a failure it goes into default mode. Default mode will set the swash angle so you can drive the unit back to be repaired and will not let it shift. A lot of times the shavings will not affect the swash plate control shaft until default mode has been tripped. Then the plate may stick at the end of its travel because the ecm will not allow it to move back searching for it's now distorted reading of where the end of the swash plate travel actually is. Most times though, the transmission unit is bad from all the chrome shavings that have gone through it and will not release the pistons to move inside their bore. They will not allow roataion of the swash plate control shaft.
If you would have been lucky, a simple angle sensor replacement would have cured the issue, since the gear inside is jammed, the worst has happened and the transmission unit must be replaced. This requires complete engine tear down, special tools to pull clutches etc.. to split the cases. The tranny unit and oil pump need replacement as well as a complete cleaning of all engine components and bearings. Oil tank needs to be split, a long baffle plat removed inside there also and clean of the tank and passages. While tor down, check the cylinder and replace piston and rings as needed.
A transmission unit runs around $1500 and oil pump another hundred or two.

Myself, Rolling a Rubicon up on the bench and doing a tranny replacement/re-ring, can finish it in anywhere from 14 to 18 hours. I have seen inexperienced techs take 20 to 30 hours to do the repair

Hope this helps you understand what is going on with your quad
 
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I have to ask.
Did you ever hear a hydralic cavitating sound (buzzing or gear stripping sound) before this unit went into default mode ?
 
I have to ask.
Did you ever hear a hydralic cavitating sound (buzzing or gear stripping sound) before this unit went into default mode ?

no not a thing!
It did it off and on for about a week till it finally f@@ked up!
hold on\!

Look at this pic!
engine-cutmodel.jpg


Is the ''control motor'' the one i have to take out????

Justin
PS also the gear is not total jamed! It moves but only about 1 inch both ways)(left and right)
 
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Yes. That'd be the critter.

An inch ?? the gear ?? That thing should spin around a lot of times

Let me get back with you, I have a tech call from Tennessee
 
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Yes. That'd be the critter.

An inch ?? the gear ?? That thing should spin around a lot of times

Let me get back with you, I have a tech call from Tennessee

ok!

Well not a whole inch but it dose move!

ok! Ill wait for your reply!

jUSTIN
:p
CHEERS:beer;:beer;:beer;
 
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