2007 Tapex Boondocker help

[big-zig]

Hey guys. Thanks in advance. I've been fighting with my BD controller and am really sick of it. I got a new box from BD last fall and was talked into the ADA sensor as well.
My sled is an 07 with the 28rs and a tunnel dump. I always run avgas and 15-17 lbs of boost. Primary riding is Cooke (7-10K). Clutching is BWB and Supertips in primary with Cat snopro green and shockwave (1-0) secondary. Gearing is 2-1. I have an Innovate A/F guage and a Parker knock box.
Here is the ongoing issue... sled starts and idles perfect, if I accelerate extremely slow (no burping of throttle) it will kackle around 6k but clean up by 7k and run out fine. A/F sits around 12.
If I slam the throttle wot the sled always sets off the knock sensor - regardless of box settings. Again A/F sits 11-12.5 range.
My calls to BD have only frustrated me further. They simple say "should work" and basically leave me hanging. They tell me to set 3k range and 6k range (low,mid,high) all to "0" and PSI screen at 10,25,40.
What are you guys running for numbers?

 

[twsandrew]

the PL box on the bd apex is so easy and forgiving. Just get a used PL box and be done. I haven't touched mine on an impluse and BD kit for two yrs

 

[hobbes]

X2... I'd even consider ditching the knock sensor after installing the PL box. If your AFR numbers are running in the right range and you are running avgas at that boost level I would't worry about taking an apex motor out at all. I've been running a PL box and AVGAS at 18 lbs at Cooke elevation for 2000 plus miles and nothing but smiles.

 

[big-zig]

Is that Pure Logic box a "throttle position" box or "boost sensing" box?
Thanks

 

[NITROSKIDUDE]

Boost sencing box, I never touched mine in the two years I had mine, and all I ever did was turn the knob for boost depending on Fuel I was running. it is too simple.

 

[JSCC]

Big go back to the early box without Ada if you can. I have over 4100iles on mine, after 1000 miles I never ran a air fuel gauge. Never needed it. Pull fuel in that rpm range. I know I pull alot of fuel in the midrange, something the dobeck boxes are incapable of.
As for clutching, try what I mentioned in my Pm. I am curious where your weights are in the supertips. Make sure you are loaded in the heel, then progress your weights to the tip as needed. Pull that snonpro green out, the backshift great but upshift like sh!t. If it still is upshifting to fast on the bottom loosen the spring twist or add some helix.
There are alot of sleds out there running my setup with good results. You just need to try and see if it works for you.

 

[hobbes]

Curious, why would you ever have to pull fuel in the midrange on a four stroke turbo which is already making boost? Not arguing, just always trying to learn as I go. I fought the original BD box for several hundred miles... I could get it to run great in the sun on one side of a range... ride around the bend, drop 500-1000 ft in elevation to the shady side and it ran like crap. I'm not saying you can't get good results from the BD box, but it's just way too much effing around for my taste.

So many lines of thought on how to set these sleds up and so many different types of kits, riders, preferences, snow, elevation... I have my supertips loaded heavy on the tip, it loads the motor quick and picks it's feet up much faster on the hill IMO. But like I said, many different ways to skin a cat and just as many ways to eat it... one thing is for sure, once you get it where you want it, it's awful hard not to smile when you wrap these things around 15+ lbs of boost and let it wail!

 

[TurboMatt]

I'd definately get rid of that "knock box". You don't need it. It'd just complicating your problem and possibly is even the problem. Tune off A/F's and your good to go.

 

[JSCC]

Curious, why would you ever have to pull fuel in the midrange on a four stroke turbo which is already making boost? Not arguing, just always trying to learn as I go. I fought the original BD box for several hundred miles... I could get it to run great in the sun on one side of a range... ride around the bend, drop 500-1000 ft in elevation to the shady side and it ran like crap. I'm not saying you can't get good results from the BD box, but it's just way too much effing around for my taste.

So many lines of thought on how to set these sleds up and so many different types of kits, riders, preferences, snow, elevation... I have my supertips loaded heavy on the tip, it loads the motor quick and picks it's feet up much faster on the hill IMO. But like I said, many different ways to skin a cat and just as many ways to eat it... one thing is for sure, once you get it where you want it, it's awful hard not to smile when you wrap these things around 15+ lbs of boost and let it wail!

There are a couple rich spots in the apex power range that slows acceleration on upshift and backshift. I could not live with it. I listen to it with plenty of sleds I have been around. I am just overly anal.
The boondocker box will not change tune, at all. That is with the old style box that I run. So if you are having problems with the way it runs from day to day, it lies elsewhere. I have ridden my sled from around 6,000' to over 10,000' and have never touched the box to change a tune. That really is not a lot of elevation tune. I would expect the factory sensors to pick up the changes for that.
The boost sensing boxes are great. And I think they are better on just about every sled I have seen. Except the Yammies. I have had great luck with the BD on both the Apex and Nytro. Sh!t I tuned the Nytro by ear for the first 1000 miles before stealing Zebs AEM at Fairview a couple years back to tune in more boost. Maybe I am just lucky though?
As for clutching. You are right. There are many ways to skin a cat.......mine just skins it faster...j/k!
I think it comes down to how you ride your sled. You clutch it for the speed and response you want for what kind of riding you like. Heavy tips mean less belt grab but harder hit and higher engagement. Makes it feel more like a revy engine. It will also pull harder on the top.
Heel weight will grab the belt harder, lower the engagement, and have alot of grunt. It will also backshift better, but not pull as hard on the top.
It's all in what you are after. At least in my opinion.

 

[wilbilly]

bd box

MY two cents I dont think it is in your box ! If your a/f is 11to 12.5 your fuel system is good . I think your problem is in your clutch arms it sounds like you need to add weight . You might give dustin over at outlaw motor sports a call he will have a good starting point for you . Remember you need to load your clutch for the max boost you like to run. Because more times than not when your are running max boost you are probably climbing something you shouldn't be and turning out is not an option.So you need the best performance out of your sled during that time . Like I said just my two cents nothing more

 

[MRFUSION]

I have been running the BD box on my Nypex all year and rarely touch it at all. I play with my idle sometimes and all the rest of my settings are set on 0 until boost. 2000ft up to 7000ft seems great, AF is always around 11.8-12. I would think you might want to chase down other issues. I was worried about this box but super easy to tune and easy to use. Shad

 

[big-zig]

Thanks for all the comments/info. I have another trip to Cooke in few weeks and I'm gonna try some of the suggestions. It's not like the machine is leaving me stranded or stuck, it's just not quite right. Maybe I'm being too picky, this is my third tapex and first BD system. Maybe this is all the better they get.