the sled idles fine and runs perfect all up to 7500 rpm and its on clicker 6.. the carbs are opening up all the way, iv checked the compresion and its good, cleaned up my rave valves, cleaned my dpm and still same thing. I was running a napa belt and switched back to ski-doo..seems like im getting a better responce but like I said the rpm still isnt there. Im also gona check out the weights on the primary but if thats not the case....what else can i check out that might be causing the problem?
2007 Summit 800 Not Getting all of my RPM
- Thread starter sledneck450
- Start date
i had the same problem last year i made me mad cause i couldnt find out what was wrong put new ramps rollers all that and still had the problem see if you can move your sheth from side to side i woud more then likely its your bushing in your sliding sheth
G
gman086
Well-known member
Assuming no broken clutch spring, it's (low rpm ceiling) almost always RAVE issues associated with the vacuum assist or broken internal springs/valve ears on the '07. Also NEED to run stock belt or you'll drop some rpm's but not 600. Also clicker 6 builds rpm's faster but delays full shiftout. Drop down to at least clicker 4 for tuning..
Have FUN!
G
Have FUN!
G
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What ramps are installed? 415?
What is the pinweight grams? If you dont have a scale, then can look at the length of the pins (Brp has 2 lengths in summits) Know the length, remove the setscrews, measure the length of the setscrews and add up the values for your grams as per this flyweight illustration sheet.
Knowing that gram amount you have, then try to remove 2 full grams to shock the system and see if you can shake some rpms out of that engine.
The 800R raves start to close about 7600ish and once the engine is down at that rpms, it will just hang there on a torque point with little to no chance of increasing again unless you reduce the load.
What is the primary spring color? Should be purple/green
Should have the long threaded 595 pin @ 1-3/8 long
If you have quick clicker replacement bolts, I would go back to the original BRP calibration bolts and use the quick clicker replacement nuts.
And just as the other gents say "go through your clutch bushings" measure and confirm the fitness of them.
Make sure the 3d checkvalves are not installed backwards.
While underhood temperatures are hot - ensure all rave hoses are tight and all dpm hoses are tight on their fittings - While underhood temperatures are hot
When you have the clutch off, check the PTO stub runout. Unfortunatly that is a common problem on '07's (assuming the engine has not been updated) and accounts for a large % of problems. Should be under .003"....if it's much over .006" that is likely at least part of the problem. Hopefully it's just a worn out clutch.
