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2007 Polaris 600 Big Bore Kits

Hello, I am looking to go out west next year as there is not alot of powder up in the UP of Michigan (as in big bowls or hills). I have been looking for big bore kits because my 600 rmk doesnt exactly have alot of power when the powder is wet and sticky. So, I figured that this would be the website to go to for advice. I have been looking at Carl's 660 and 685 so far, for the simple reason they have very good products from what I have been reading. My current sled is a 2007 RMK 600 144 with fox floats on the front, SLP High flow intake, walker evan's piggy backs off of a 2010 assault in the back, and a degree timing key. The main question is WHAT IS THE BEST KIT? Thank you for your input.

P.S- renting sleds is expensive!!
 
Take a look at SLP's kits. they have a 660 and a 727. http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=product&catalogID=3&catID=54

I remember reading that Carl's gets some of the custom made big bore parts from SLP.

FYI, ask about minimum altitude requirements with the kits. Some have a 3000' minimum and should be posted in that specific kit's description.

IMO, Id crunch some numbers, make some calls and find out how much it will actually cost to rent. Reasons being, how much more fuel will you need to haul your sled, factor in that you'd probably be renting a 2012 or 2011 sled in your choice of brand/model. Also consider, big bore kits aren't cheap when you factor in everything else that's needed/recommended to ensure they run like designed.
 
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Take a look at SLP's kits. they have a 660 and a 727. http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=product&catalogID=3&catID=54

I remember reading that Carl's gets some of the custom made big bore parts from SLP.

FYI, ask about minimum altitude requirements with the kits. Some have a 3000' minimum and should be posted in that specific kit's description.

IMO, Id crunch some numbers, make some calls and find out how much it will actually cost to rent. Reasons being, how much more fuel will you need to haul your sled, factor in that you'd probably be renting a 2012 or 2011 sled in your choice of brand/model. Also consider, big bore kits aren't cheap when you factor in everything else that's needed/recommended to ensure they run like designed.

Thanks, I understand. I plan on selling my good cylinders/head to help make the cost easier, it should be about $2000-$2200 without profit from the head/cylinders (pick up 2 scored cylinders and a pitted head). I also want just more power around here, my buddy's sabercat 700 is smoking me if we arent in over 5in of snow (not on top end but accel) and also just has more plain out power for me. I came off of a 2006 error prone fst switchback but damn, when it ran it ran good. Lots of power but damn was it heavy!
 
Thanks, I understand. I plan on selling my good cylinders/head to help make the cost easier, it should be about $2000-$2200 without profit from the head/cylinders (pick up 2 scored cylinders and a pitted head). I also want just more power around here, my buddy's sabercat 700 is smoking me if we arent in over 5in of snow (not on top end but accel) and also just has more plain out power for me. I came off of a 2006 error prone fst switchback but damn, when it ran it ran good. Lots of power but damn was it heavy!

Also be advised that I do believe Carl's & SLP require you to send in your cylinders and head for exchange/modification.
 
ya, but here is the problem. SLP is 2500, carl's is 1500. I have read ALOT of reviews on about how good carl's is. also carl's kit makes 10 more hp. 2500 for 16 extra hp or 1500 for (average dyno charts i have found) 26-27 extra hp over stock.
 
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ya, but here is the problem. SLP is 2500, carl's is 1500. I have read ALOT of reviews on about how good carl's is. also carl's kit makes 10 more hp. 2500 for 16 extra hp or 1500 for (average dyno charts i have found) 26-27 extra hp over stock.

How do you know Carl's is 10hp more. When I was doing mine they said " I have never been highmarked by a dyno....so I dont use one" I also dont think they are 27 horse over stock. i have a 660 and it runs great...but its nothing like the 800. It gets around great but it is certainly missing the grunt. Sell yours and take the money and upgrade to the 800. I wish I would have. Now Im 12000 into a 600 trying to make it run like an 800...and it does with a turbo:wave: Still wish I went to the 800 from teh beginning :face-icon-small-dis
 
ya, but here is the problem. SLP is 2500, carl's is 1500. I have read ALOT of reviews on about how good carl's is. also carl's kit makes 10 more hp. 2500 for 16 extra hp or 1500 for (average dyno charts i have found) 26-27 extra hp over stock.

Are you sure your comparing each kit & what's included or just looking at the price and HP numbers???????

Go with either company, just make sure you know what's included in the kit. Which I have copied and pasted below.... Huge difference


SLP 660 Kit (Part #660)
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1,350.00
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SLP Single Pipe (part #09-634)
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579.95
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V-Force 3 Reeds (Part #22-139)
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258.00
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High Flow™ Intake Kit (Part #14-126)
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171.67
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Clutch Kit (Price May Vary)
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129.90
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Jet Kit (2 main jet @ 3.25 each)
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6.50
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Typical Total
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2,496.02



Carl's 660 Kit:
The 660 kit includes boring, plating and porting your cylinders, head and power valve modifications, new piston kits and all necessary gaskets.

Carl's 660 Kit RECOMMENDATIONS:
We recommend our 660 single pipe, bored carbs, V Force reeds and airbox/clutch cover kit for optimal power gains.
 
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I see. Those numbers could be false but thats just what i was reading in a couple of posts when i google searched the dyno charts. I have heard better reviews on carl's but who knows.
 
I went with Iantomasi Track n Trail, Bowmanville, ON. Sent the motor to them complete as they don't do "kits" and partials. Welded and trued crank, case ported and matched, cylinders replated and ported, piston and ex valves modded for 660, matched ex manifild to ex ports, carbs bored to 40.5, jetted for my altitude and -20C, rad valves included, I installed the motor and set the idle....and thats it. Its the best running motor I've owned....I've had ten. The response is motocross-like, pulls to 8400, and runs a stock polaris pipe. Oh ya, it was $2650 complete, and $150 freight both ways from Alberta.
 
I went with Iantomasi Track n Trail, Bowmanville, ON. Sent the motor to them complete as they don't do "kits" and partials. Welded and trued crank, case ported and matched, cylinders replated and ported, piston and ex valves modded for 660, matched ex manifild to ex ports, carbs bored to 40.5, jetted for my altitude and -20C, rad valves included, I installed the motor and set the idle....and thats it. Its the best running motor I've owned....I've had ten. The response is motocross-like, pulls to 8400, and runs a stock polaris pipe. Oh ya, it was $2650 complete, and $150 freight both ways from Alberta.

Now this sounds like what I'm looking for, have you had it on a dyno? How much worse is your fuel mileage? Thanks
 
Hello, I am looking to go out west next year as there is not alot of powder up in the UP of Michigan (as in big bowls or hills). I have been looking for big bore kits because my 600 rmk doesnt exactly have alot of power when the powder is wet and sticky. So, I figured that this would be the website to go to for advice. I have been looking at Carl's 660 and 685 so far, for the simple reason they have very good products from what I have been reading. My current sled is a 2007 RMK 600 144 with fox floats on the front, SLP High flow intake, walker evan's piggy backs off of a 2010 assault in the back, and a degree timing key. The main question is WHAT IS THE BEST KIT? Thank you for your input.

P.S- renting sleds is expensive!!

I would look at a few things in making my decision and a Dyno sheet is not on that list.

Some things I would look at:
Does the proposed builder build products for your elevation?

Do they have a good reputation and a good baseline set up for your riding style?

What do people who have already SPENT the money say in terms of performance, reliability, and overall happiness with their decision?

What type of pistons do they use and are you comfortable with their piston choice.

Is the engine ported for pump fuel at your elevation and is it finicky in its tuning requirments or is it a pull and go engine?

That said, I have owned 2 Carls 685 kits and both ran extremely well. I have also set up a 660 kit that Carls did and it also performs very well. Both of these kits will out run a 800 in 400-700' pulls, past that the 800 starts to reel in the bigbore and will pass it in a long pull or very deep powder.

I will say that you need all the accy's with either kit, Bored Carbs, pipe, reeds, etc.

I would vote for Carls based upon their overall # of kits on the snow in comparison to other builders. They have the set up nailed when you follow their receipe (bored carbs, SLP pipe, Reeds, etc) for various elevations. They utilize a stock Polaris piston and have an overall very pull and go setup that keeps you riding rather than wrenching. More important than the HP # is how that big bore kit lets you ride.
 
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Thanks angermanagement890, that makes the most sence out of any of the posts. At this point, im looking into the end of next summer actually doing the big bore kit. I wanted to find the best kit/most reliable and I believe this post has help alot. Instead of putting it together myself, I will see if carl's will take my whole motor and do all the required work as a whole and send everything back so I know EVERYTHING is done right and by a trained prof instead of by me and my dad in our garage lol. Thanks guys/gals, any other input is still appreciated.
 
I would look at a few things in making my decision and a Dyno sheet is not on that list.

Some things I would look at:
Does the proposed builder build products for your elevation?

Do they have a good reputation and a good baseline set up for your riding style?

What do people who have already SPENT the money say in terms of performance, reliability, and overall happiness with their decision?

What type of pistons do they use and are you comfortable with their piston choice.

Is the engine ported for pump fuel at your elevation and is it finicky in its tuning requirments or is it a pull and go engine?

That said, I have owned 2 Carls 685 kits and both ran extremely well. I have also set up a 660 kit that Carls did and it also performs very well. Both of these kits will out run a 800 in 400-700' pulls, past that the 800 starts to reel in the bigbore and will pass it in a long pull or very deep powder.

I will say that you need all the accy's with either kit, Bored Carbs, pipe, reeds, etc.

I would vote for Carls based upon their overall # of kits on the snow in comparison to other builders. They have the set up nailed when you follow their receipe (bored carbs, SLP pipe, Reeds, etc) for various elevations. They utilize a stock Polaris piston and have an overall very pull and go setup that keeps you riding rather than wrenching. More important than the HP # is how that big bore kit lets you ride.

Yep--Exsactly what he said!!!:thumb:
 
Some people in my home town have called me crazy for doing this and not buying an 800 dragon. My response is that the 600's are more reliabe (maybe not with a big bore kit, but ive read otherwise about carl's) compared to the many motor problems of the 8's. I do understand less torque but (again from this forum) I have come to understand the 660 and 685 from carl's will keep up if not beat them any day unless you are talking longer pulls or in uber deep pow. Thanks guys/gals, made my mind up on a 685 from carl's with everything. Would I have to take out my 2 degree timing key after I run the Carl's kit? I talked to Chris yesterday from them but I forgot to ask that question. The kit is $1750 for the motor portion w/o cylinder exchange, pipe kit is $579, clucth kit is $280, and the bored carbs are $235. Gona make one hell of a sleeper on the hills/trails. The best buy ive ever made for that sled so far was the Floats, but now I think the 685 is gona top it.
 
Hopefully, does the slp pipe/can make a difference in tone? I know the pipe is required but I want to run a sno stuff can with the slp pipe. Is that possible?

With the SLP Pipe.. and Sno Stuff Can it works.. fits a little tight..

IT's LOUD!!

i had to add weight to primary to make it pull harder!
 
problem is I might have to go with the SLP can because my neighboring state doesn't allow exhaust modifications, I mainly ride their trails. :-( So it needs to sound kinda stock lol
 
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