2007 M8 Clutch free spinning & can't get it off.

[brahm]

Hey guys looking for tips here on how to replace this clutch on an 2007 m8. (sorry if I use the wrong lingo I haven't rebuilt a cat clutch before so these may be doo terms)

Basically some how the sliding sheave side of the drive clutch is free spinning separately from the stationary side. I can't see any damage to the spider. I can move the sled in and out (with rpms the clutch will grab the belt) but when you hit the brake the sliding sheave side just keeps spinning! I've removed the bolt but I can't get the clutch off as I have no way to use my clutch brake on the sliding sheave as it is moving independent of the stationary sheave and I have no way to hold the stationary sheave in place. How can I split the sheaves? What other options do I have to get it off. When I use the puller even if I hold the sliding sheave in place the other half just spins free so I can't get it tight.

Here is a video (I don't have the clutch brake on as it doesn't do anything since the stationary sheave will free spin)




A suggestion was made to try a water trick where you fill it over over nite and let the water freeze and expand but this was given to me with caution as the clutch can fly off (and I'd rather not put a clutch through the door of my model a).


We are supposed to get 2' this weekend so I'm racing to get her back up and going. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Sling-it]

Your best bet is going to be an air impact. Other than that, you'll have to get the stationary side to hold position. Put the belt around it and try to hold it. May still need an air impact though. If you've not used one, better have someone experienced give you a hand.

 

[AKDoug]

Hey guys looking for tips here on how to replace this clutch on an 2007 m8. (sorry if I use the wrong lingo I haven't rebuilt a cat clutch before so these may be doo terms)

Basically some how the sliding sheave side of the drive clutch is free spinning separately from the stationary side. I can't see any damage to the spider. I can move the sled in and out (with rpms the clutch will grab the belt) but when you hit the brake the sliding sheave side just keeps spinning! I've removed the bolt but I can't get the clutch off as I have no way to use my clutch brake on the sliding sheave as it is moving independent of the stationary sheave and I have no way to hold the stationary sheave in place. How can I split the sheaves? What other options do I have to get it off. When I use the puller even if I hold the sliding sheave in place the other half just spins free so I can't get it tight.

Here is a video (I don't have the clutch brake on as it doesn't do anything since the stationary sheave will free spin)




A suggestion was made to try a water trick where you fill it over over nite and let the water freeze and expand but this was given to me with caution as the clutch can fly off (and I'd rather not put a clutch through the door of my model a).


We are supposed to get 2' this weekend so I'm racing to get her back up and going. Any help would be appreciated.

I've never seen one "fly" off with the water trick. They just go bang and fall off the end of the crank at the worst.

 

[brahm]

I've never seen one "fly" off with the water trick. They just go bang and fall off the end of the crank at the worst.

Your best bet is going to be an air impact. Other than that, you'll have to get the stationary side to hold position. Put the belt around it and try to hold it. May still need an air impact though. If you've not used one, better have someone experienced give you a hand.

Thanks for the feedback, Unfortunately I don't have access to air tools. I do have fab & hand tools (torch, mig, etc).

I've never tried the frozen water trick only the one where you use water to displace a puller with tape on the end of a bolt, the issue with that is I can't tighten anything down since it will free spin. The frozen trick I've heard story's of clutches popping across garages, ha. I may try it (and was recommended to just put towels etc over it to dampen it. I dunno I'm at a loss.

 

[LoudHandle]

You can stop the fixed sheave / crank from turning by using the soft rope method. Caution must be used to keep the piston above the height of the ports so the rope does not get cut / caught and do further damage. Start by finding where the PTO cylinder closes the exhaust port when turning the crank CW and make a sharpie line on the fixed sheave and the cylinder Flashlight pointed in the "Y" pipe towards the PTO cylinder should give you a visual of when it closes). Use some small diameter rope and feed it thru the open spark plug hole (recoil rope works well). coil as much as you can on top of the piston. When you think you have enough tighten your puller until the clutch pops off.

Note: do not use the mag cylinder for this as you can twist the crank out of phase with too much force on it.

Another option is heavy gear oil or grease and reinsert a fouled spark plug. It is just far harder to clean up / flush out afterwards.

 

[fast8seccamaro]

I just had this on my 13 925BB. The spider looked good but was infact cracked thru the threads. I used the water method with my clutch puller. I used a strap wrench on the bottom of the clutch between the shives to get as tight as I could. I dont like using a impact but did. It only "hit" about 4-6 times before popping the clutch off. Sorry if that's confusing but worked for me

 

[Sledbrain2]

I would try to tip the sled up, fill hole half full of water tap in some grease, wrap the puller with plumbers tape and pop it off, Something had to break for the clutch to just turn, if its just the movable sheave and the stationary does not move, if the entire clutch spins like that you have a busted crank. I did have a mid 90's cat clutch break in two, had to weld it together to get it off. Wonder if something similar happened here.

I watched your video again, crank is fine, shaft between the two sheave's has to be broke, water trick may not work if there is a crack. You might have to go to plan B, I hope not. I would try an impact as suggested one of your buddies has to have an cordless. I agree that the spider broke, if the shaft broke the clutch would have fell into your hands when you took the bolt out. I would really try and find a impact, Milwaukee makes a 300 ft lbs 1/2 in. cordless that should pop it off with the hydraulic technique.

 

[jim]

If the moveable sheave is spinning freely of the fixed sheave and you don't have any obvious spider damage/breakage then the threads your spider attaches to are stripped clean. That's the only way it can move freely from the fixed sheave.

The get the clutch off, I'd recommend taking a strap and tying one end to the secondary. The take the strap and wrap it several times around the primary fixed sheave so that it wraps up tight. You might wrap the fixed sheave with several winds of duct tape before you wrap the strap to give it something to bite/grip into. Then remove the clutch with puller.

 

[grandpaj]

clutch removal

Just had this very thing happen while on a trip to West Yellowstone.
Didn't have access to an air gun. Wasn't to worried about ruining the rest of the clutch. So just got a real good pair of vice grips and really got them tight, and clamped them on the shaft of the non movable sheave. Took a little work but got it to hold enough for the clutch puller to do its job. Yes it ruined the shaft , but didn't matter as these clutches are throw away anyway, unless you want to pay 2/3 rds the cost of a new one to have rebuilt.
You do what you have to , to keep going when you are away from home and only a few days to play.

 

[brahm]

Just had this very thing happen while on a trip to West Yellowstone.
Didn't have access to an air gun. Wasn't to worried about ruining the rest of the clutch. So just got a real good pair of vice grips and really got them tight, and clamped them on the shaft of the non movable sheave. Took a little work but got it to hold enough for the clutch puller to do its job. Yes it ruined the shaft , but didn't matter as these clutches are throw away anyway, unless you want to pay 2/3 rds the cost of a new one to have rebuilt.
You do what you have to , to keep going when you are away from home and only a few days to play.

hmmm, if I'm going to do that I can weld a bar onto it for more leverage. hopefully it won't come to this but you do make a good point.

 

[Vern]

Had the same happen once, spider is cracked. Like said if your not planning on trying to rebuild the clutch find something to grip the shaft on the stationary sheeve. i think i used a pipe wrench, its been a few years so can't remember exactly

 

[Phizzer]

I'd look for an electric or air impact gun. I use it to remove my clutches and 99% of the time it will pop it right off. I don't really ever have to use the clutch holding tool unless I am torqueing it on back to spec. And even that, I usually just hit it with the impact You have to have a friend who owns one? I use an electric Dewalt and Craftsman 1/2" impact.

 

[brahm]

I'd look for an electric or air impact gun. I use it to remove my clutches and 99% of the time it will pop it right off. I don't really ever have to use the clutch holding tool unless I am torqueing it on back to spec. And even that, I usually just hit it with the impact You have to have a friend who owns one? I use an electric Dewalt and Craftsman 1/2" impact.

Trying a 1/2" impact (electric) borrowed from a friend so far no luck, going to try heating the clutch a little.

 

[Sledbrain2]

Tip it on its side and pour water into hole, use plumbers white thread lock on the puller, if that does not hold use water and grease, I took off a clutch that was rusted the entire surface of the taper, using this method, works really well with an impact.

 

[brahm]

Thanks everyone! Got it off. Did a little bit off everything in the end.

Packed the end of the puller with grease, covered the threads in Teflon, filled it with water and drove it in with an electric Electric Impact Gun (after heating the clutch a bit with my torch until it was just warm to the touch).

First try with water & grease popped right off!

 

[brahm]

alright, so with it off. It's pretty clear the spider stripped although some how didn't crack. What's my best option to get this thing back up and running both in terms of cost, reliability, and turn around time. Another stock clutch, aftermarket, used, rebuilt? Any recommendations would be appreciated. It's dumping out and I want to get going again asap.

Also how can I prevent this from happening in the future?

 

[LoudHandle]

...
Also how can I prevent this from happening in the future?

Buy a re-Tapered P85. Twice the Clutch as the stock Cat crap. Even though the build quality of the P85 has fallen off in recent years.

Cost wise even the Tapps billet clutch is a good value, when you factor it it will last the life of the sled rather than a new Cat clutch every year or two depending on miles ridden.

 

[brahm]

Buy a re-Tapered P85. Twice the Clutch as the stock Cat crap. Even though the build quality of the P85 has fallen off in recent years.

Cost wise even the Tapps billet clutch is a good value, when you factor it it will last the life of the sled rather than a new Cat clutch every year or two depending on miles ridden.

Thanks, where can I find the p85? -1,800 for the billet clutch is a bit more then I'm looking to spend. Hoping to be in the sub 500 range.

 

[LoudHandle]

Thanks, where can I find the p85?

FTX Motorsports Re-tapers them to the Arctic Cat Taper and sells them both loaded and raw (unloaded).

 

[brahm]

FTX Motorsports Re-tapers them to the Arctic Cat Taper and sells them both loaded and raw (unloaded).

ouch 1200, definitely a fair bit more then I need or want to spend. This is a stock sled for the most part, just used for playing in powder/boondocking. We got 9 years out of the oem clutch. I'm not opposed to going stock, or stock with a kit. Any recommendations on where to get the best bang for my buck?