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2007 clutch problems

K

khaddon2110

Well-known member
OK, so heres the deal... I have all the updates, and everything has been very good, but the last two rides I can only get 7800 rpm's. If I change the clickers up, I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. Currently in #3 as was set after the updates. Is there another update to the update, that updated last years update?:confused:


I'm not seeing a 200 rpm shift for each clicker change. Its changing from 7800 - 8600 and higher.

Maybe I should just sell it now and place the add in Mountain/General section like everyone else.:D
 
wow , my dealer told me i was the only one having a problem. 400 miles since the updated update to the update, i only pull 78-7900 rpm on the trail so i go to clicker 4 now it will pull 8500 but if history repeats itself i will have to go to clicker 5 in the next ride or so. i hane a HEAVY spring in my primary and took some wieght out . but i'm the only one haning a problem:confused: 3900 miles and running great when it pulls its rpm
 
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The '07 and '08 TRA primary rollers and main bushing will only last 4-500 miles. If you pull it apart you would likely find the rollers bushings worn, probably with fibers hanging out the sides. The main bushing is also wearing too fast. As they wear, things begin to become inconsistant and performance lacking.
Doo is aware of the issue but so far has no further updates.
Aftermarket rollers are cheaper and will last alot longer.
I got tired of the inconsistancy and ditched the TRA for a P-85 and the secondary for a TEAM. Works excellent! Time will tell if it holds up better than a TRA but performance is without a doubt better than any TRA settup.
 
If you ride 8000 to 10000 feet the stock compression isn't enough at high altitudes. 14 to 1 or 16 to 1 compression makes a world of differance. If the motor isn't working correctly at high elevations it will show in your clutching weather you clutch is setup correct or not.

12 to 1 stock compression imo is ineffciante at high altitudes...Cure, Cheater heads.

ot
 
If you ride 8000 to 10000 feet the stock compression isn't enough at high altitudes. 14 to 1 or 16 to 1 compression makes a world of differance. If the motor isn't working correctly at high elevations it will show in your clutching weather you clutch is setup correct or not.

12 to 1 stock compression imo is ineffciante at high altitudes...Cure, Cheater heads.

ot

What head do you like to run?
 
Everyone is chasing the Primary because the update to the update fixed the issues for ~ 400-500 miles, you should also look at the secondary... The bushings are at least twice as small as the 06 and wear out faster...
have the update done again to the primary and have them replace the secondary busshings if they are worn and it should be good for another ~500 to 1000 miles.

After the warranty is up it may be time for a team secondary to keep from having to replace the bushings all the time on your own dime with the doo secondary.
 
Ok, heres the latest deal.... Just picked up the machine today from the dealer. They told me all they did was adjust Belt deflection and aligned the clutch..... Whatever....:mad:

They charged me $79 for something I could do myself...

We loaded up and went strait to the mountain and rode the trail in and sled would still only pull 7800 rpm's. I was frustrated at this point so I stopped and just figured I'd try changing to clicker 4 for kicks. For the next 1 1/2 hours, that was the most fun I've had on this machine for the last month. Pulled like a freakin freight train,.. the way it did at the beginning of the season right after the updates.

Then, Was making a pretty steep pull through the trees and got to a point where the hill went almost verticle, and noticed the sound had changed to the point I thought I had a cylinder going down. I lost almost all power and just dug in..... STUCK!

I looked in to find my Y pipe gasket on the brake side hanging sideways by one bolt.

My question is, would these bolts being loose cause my RPM's to be low?..
When the bolts were gone, I could only get 7000 rpm's and it sounded like crap as you would immagine.
 
Yes, would cause a loss of power. But I would think you would have heard the leak when it got bad enough to cause a power loss ???? Also, a good thorough dealer would have checked the y-pipe bolts since they are a common problem.
 
Yes, would cause a loss of power. But I would think you would have heard the leak when it got bad enough to cause a power loss ???? Also, a good thorough dealer would have checked the y-pipe bolts since they are a common problem.

I would have thought they would have checked that too. I'm running a Cook can and it is pretty loud to begin with. I think you answered my question though and bottom line, they are getting the machine back in the morning.
 
The biggest difference that separates the 07 from the rest is the cooling system.
The 07 does not have a thermostat system.
If on a hard pull and the coolant system is getting lots of snow the coolant temperature can become lower, overtaking the heat produced by the enigne under w.o.throttle - timing/fuel comp/rave opening start to vary to limit the output on the engine as the climb increases and suck the engine down to 7500 rpms.

On Mar 21st, last Saturday morning I sat with Turbo Al for an hour discussing what I seen when I was at Dynotech running an 08xp. The engine ran at best power when the coolant temp from the head was below 141 degrees. When up to 140 the engine produce 151hp, when at 141, lost 8 hp or so and Turbo Al confirms this happens. His mechanic has an 07R with a mechanical coolant temp gage on the engine and started to observe the same thing all the time; when the temperature reaches about 98 degF on the crankcase, the engine starts to drift rpms, drifting lower on a pull that is just hard enough to maintain peak rpms. Keep the case temp above 98 and runs fine. Start to get cooler than 98 and rpms drift low.

Mike blew the 07R engine, got an 08 engine installed under warranty....
Mike asked the mechanic "are you going to put a thermostat in it?"
Dealer said "no, the 07R does not have a thermostat"
Mike "but this is an 08 engine with changes that were reasoned upon the failures of the 07 engine which require a thermostat.
Dealer "too bad, we're not doing it"

Dealer did not want to put a thermostat in....Turbo Al did.
Now the engine runs at correct temperature all the time and rpms fluctuate due to load....not coolant temp. So now he has an 07R with a thermostat installed.

The 08 comes with bypass thermostat now...WHY???
Quote brp "to ensure consistent engine temperatures"
Why does the engine need consistent engine temperatures? Could it be because the coolant system has the capacity to overcome the engine heat under wide open throttle?
Could it be, because the coolant sensor tells the ECU to pull timing out? IF temp gets low - THEN pull timing out.

IF buying an 07R,
THEN think about modifying the coolant system to incorporate a thermostat.

-------------------------
Its like guys who put boondocker timing systems on other sleds, Cat's, SDI's, Poo's; They make a change to the box and observe the change did not change the personality of the sled, or it only works sometimes. The boondocker must see proper coolant temp before the box will take over different timing.

-------------------------
One way to tell is when you have had fluctuating rpms from coolant temp, if you can stop somewhere at the top of a run and let the engine idle for about less than a minute, then drive away, you'll see the snow will have a black/brown discolor in about a foot diameter...black slobbering crap. A hot engine won't reveal a patch that big when idling, then pull away.
How does an engine produce puke big slobbering exhaust? Adjusted timing/fuel compensation/rave opening settings at reduced power.

-------------------------

Why does a clutch calibration work good for about a 1/2 hour of running then just stop working good and have drifting low rpms?

I have been observing comments of my clutch kits for 08 models vs 07 models.
Seems when gents have fluctuating rpms then can fix with flyweight change.
If making a change then I have the tuner check their clutch parts.
More likely than not the tuner tears down the primary and finds wobbling rollers, the bushings are worn. Sliding sheave bushing worn.
...change to new parts and the sled is like new again.

Now do this on an 07
Seems when gents have fluctuating rpms then can fix with flyweight change.
If making a change then I have the tuner check their clutch parts.
More likely than not the tuner tears down the primary and finds wobbling rollers, the bushings are worn. Sliding sheave bushing worn.
...change to new parts and the sled is like new again for only certain periods of time. Clutch calibration work good for about a 1/2 hour of running then just stop working good and have drifting low rpms.

Over the weekend I worked on 2 xp154's and both had worn rollers and sliding sheave bushings. The one the rollers were cut right into the pins. The clutches were checked on last Wednesday and rollers seemed fine then over the weekend run 120 miles put on them 2 tanks of gas each and Sunday night strip down clutches and rollers need changing.
WHY?


Totally disgusted!!!!!!!
 
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I pulled my xrs clutch for the first time last night, 1300 miles still good performance but I have been running on clicker 6 at 8000-8100 the last few rides instead of clicker 5 at 8200. The rollers and bushings were like new, just some gunk on the main arm bushings that was impeding movement.

It seems like most of these are eating bushings and rollers, but why are some lasting? These have been almost all hard mountain miles.
 
The biggest difference that separates the 07 from the rest is the cooling system.
The 07 does not have a thermostat system.
If on a hard pull and the coolant system is getting lots of snow the coolant temperature can become lower, overtaking the heat produced by the enigne under w.o.throttle - timing/fuel comp/rave opening start to vary to limit the output on the engine as the climb increases and suck the engine down to 7500 rpms.

On Mar 21st, last Saturday morning I sat with Turbo Al for an hour discussing what I seen when I was at Dynotech running an 08xp. The engine ran at best power when the coolant temp from the head was below 141 degrees. When up to 140 the engine produce 151hp, when at 141, lost 8 hp or so and Turbo Al confirms this happens. His mechanic has an 07R with a mechanical coolant temp gage on the engine and started to observe the same thing all the time; when the temperature reaches about 98 degF on the crankcase, the engine starts to drift rpms, drifting lower on a pull that is just hard enough to maintain peak rpms. Keep the case temp above 98 and runs fine. Start to get cooler than 98 and rpms drift low.

Mike blew the 07R engine, got an 08 engine installed under warranty....
Mike asked the mechanic "are you going to put a thermostat in it?"
Dealer said "no, the 07R does not have a thermostat"
Mike "but this is an 08 engine with changes that were reasoned upon the failures of the 07 engine which require a thermostat.
Dealer "too bad, we're not doing it"

Dealer did not want to put a thermostat in....Turbo Al did.
Now the engine runs at correct temperature all the time and rpms fluctuate due to load....not coolant temp. So now he has an 07R with a thermostat installed.

The 08 comes with bypass thermostat now...WHY???
Quote brp "to ensure consistent engine temperatures"
Why does the engine need consistent engine temperatures? Could it be because the coolant system has the capacity to overcome the engine heat under wide open throttle?
Could it be, because the coolant sensor tells the ECU to pull timing out? IF temp gets low - THEN pull timing out.

IF buying an 07R,
THEN think about modifying the coolant system to incorporate a thermostat.

-------------------------
Its like guys who put boondocker timing systems on other sleds, Cat's, SDI's, Poo's; They make a change to the box and observe the change did not change the personality of the sled, or it only works sometimes. The boondocker must see proper coolant temp before the box will take over different timing.

-------------------------
One way to tell is when you have had fluctuating rpms from coolant temp, if you can stop somewhere at the top of a run and let the engine idle for about less than a minute, then drive away, you'll see the snow will have a black/brown discolor in about a foot diameter...black slobbering crap. A hot engine won't reveal a patch that big when idling, then pull away.
How does an engine produce puke big slobbering exhaust? Adjusted timing/fuel compensation/rave opening settings at reduced power.

-------------------------

Why does a clutch calibration work good for about a 1/2 hour of running then just stop working good and have drifting low rpms?

I have been observing comments of my clutch kits for 08 models vs 07 models.
Seems when gents have fluctuating rpms then can fix with flyweight change.
If making a change then I have the tuner check their clutch parts.
More likely than not the tuner tears down the primary and finds wobbling rollers, the bushings are worn. Sliding sheave bushing worn.
...change to new parts and the sled is like new again.

Now do this on an 07
Seems when gents have fluctuating rpms then can fix with flyweight change.
If making a change then I have the tuner check their clutch parts.
More likely than not the tuner tears down the primary and finds wobbling rollers, the bushings are worn. Sliding sheave bushing worn.
...change to new parts and the sled is like new again for only certain periods of time. Clutch calibration work good for about a 1/2 hour of running then just stop working good and have drifting low rpms.

Over the weekend I worked on 2 xp154's and both had worn rollers and sliding sheave bushings. The one the rollers were cut right into the pins. The clutches were checked on last Wednesday and rollers seemed fine then over the weekend run 120 miles put on them 2 tanks of gas each and Sunday night strip down clutches and rollers need changing.
WHY?


Totally disgusted!!!!!!!
How do you install a therostat into a 07 800r? Can i just install a 06 therostat into a 07engine? Will the therostat fit into the head? I think the hose from the thermostat housing to the reservoir is smaller on a 07.
 
Talk to Turbo Al at the Sled shed. There is a small change made to the exisiting head to allow the install of the TS.
 
now I'm not holding rpm's

As stated above I serviced my clutch last week, no visible wear on the rollers or bushings. I cleaned everything really well, installed a brand new black purple spring and 17.5 grams to run at 5-6k'. Started at clicker 4 would drop to 7600 rpm in the three feet of fresh snow we had. Took it all the way to clicker six and the most I ever had was 7800, but usually 7600.

I checked dpm lines, belt deflection, etc and no problems. I have winterbrew's recommended secondary set up as well. It was frustrating getting my ace kicked by polaris guys all day (first time all year).

Are the rollers more sensitive to wear than I am assuming? I will replace them and try again. What else do I need to look for? I am still new to these clutches.
 
As stated above I serviced my clutch last week, no visible wear on the rollers or bushings. I cleaned everything really well, installed a brand new black purple spring and 17.5 grams to run at 5-6k'. Started at clicker 4 would drop to 7600 rpm in the three feet of fresh snow we had. Took it all the way to clicker six and the most I ever had was 7800, but usually 7600.

I checked dpm lines, belt deflection, etc and no problems. I have winterbrew's recommended secondary set up as well. It was frustrating getting my ace kicked by polaris guys all day (first time all year).

Are the rollers more sensitive to wear than I am assuming? I will replace them and try again. What else do I need to look for? I am still new to these clutches.

Which primary spring? Is there a black/purple? Or is it a purple/purple? If so, drop a couple grams of weight and try it again.
 
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