2006 RMK 900 Short Block Advice

[Manywheels]

Hi everyone,
This is my first post, and it looks like there's alot of good info on here.
I am currently installing a rebuilt 900 shortblock and have a few questions that the service manual doesn't seem to answer. I'm not sure why I volunteer for jobs like this, as most of my experience is with one of the other brands but I guess it is educational, if nothing else. Things a person does for your friends!??
1-when removing the headbolts, there was some sort of white sealant or ?? on them. Manual says nothing about it during assembly, so am I supposed to be putting something on them?

2-Is there a way to check to make sure oil pump is working properly? We have zero snow here and I won't be able to run it much to see if oil level drops and I will be premixing the first tank of fuel anyways but would like to make sure oil pump is ok.

3- What do you suggest as a break in premix ratio? 40-50:1??

4- Do you recommend leaving the bottom 2-3 bolts out of the recoil assembly that cannot be reached when engine is in chassis, for ease of future maintenance?

5- Is there an easy way to bleed both the oil lines and coolant system?

6- Is it possible to correctly install the inner water pump seal without the Special Polaris tool, that the service manual suggests? The seals are pricey and you only get one shot at it.

Thanks in advance for any advice all you Polaris experts out there can give.

 

[monster715]

Hey, I have done a few 900 engine swaps now so I will do my best to answer some of your questions.

1.....yes, there is a sealant on the head bolts from the factory. I always run a threadlocker on the head bolts when reinstalling. Make sure you dont knock your o-rings out of place on the cylinders themselves. If they are not sticking in the groove well - grease the o-rings, that will help them stay in place.

2.....I have been a little nervous about this one in the past myself. I think most important is to make sure the oil cable itself is good. The Polaris designed cable is not good and known for breaking. If you can find an FBF cable (here on SnoWest), that is the way to go. All you can really do is make sure is it set properly (line-to-line) and then actuate the throttle and make sure the oil pump lever is moving as well.

3......50 to 1 is what I have run in the past.

4......If I recall, I think there is really just one bolt that is impossible to get to when the engine is installed. Yes - I would leave that one out.

5......Bleeding the oil lines - the only way I know to do it is removing the boost box and opening up the bolt on the oil pump itself while the engine is running. There is probably a more efficient way to do this but I like to physically see oil coming out of that bleeder. As far as coolant goes - you can tip the sled on its left side and open the coolant bottle cap but the sled needs to be at running temp. I typically will lift the front end of the sled so that its higher than the rear and bleed it with the bleeder screw located in the t-stat housing.....and I will do this a few times (overly cautious).

6.......If you are referring to the seal on the end of the cross-shaft where the coolant impellar is - yeah, that is a bitch. I would recommend the Polaris tool. I have never installed one myself but I have tried to take them out and it is impossible without wrecking the seal. So yeah, you only have one shot at it.

If you have any other questions, let me know and I will help however I can. Good Luck.