2005 RT1000 Summit - 1800 miles, all updates. Sled is in SW Denver.
THE "BAD" - FRONT COOLER IS BYPASSED. Gotta get that out of the way first. I bought the sled 2 seasons ago with a cracked front cooler/1000 miles on it. It got totaled, bought it from the auction. I did a LOT of research, decided to bypass the front cooler. It will get warm on hardpack - just like my 13 Skandic, just like my 03 Summit. It has never overheated. The 2005 RT1k has a huge tunnel cooler AND a rear cooler by the snowflap - if anything, it overcools. Several people here and on other forums had bypassed the front cooler after it cracked with no ill effect (and everyone takes the rear cooler off their 06 RT - whose tunnel cooler is half the size). If there's ANY loose snow, it runs at 1/4-1/2 on the gauge. Deep powder, 1/4, all day long.
Also bad - tach refuses to stay zeroed. You can hold the button down and make it do its thing, zero it out, it will somehow wind up about 1000rpm high after a few days. I put a small, aftermarket tach on the dash for clutching, ignore the normal tach. I gave up trying to keep it zeroed. I don't think there's anything wrong with the tach; not sure if the button is sticky or what. All other lights/gauges work.
The good:
2005 RT1000, 162" track
18xx miles
Added a temp gauge out of a MXZX - plugs right in to stock harness.
When I got the sled, the motor was out (a good friend of mine is the mechanic that diagnosed it for the insurance company; once the ins. co totaled it, he called me and it was on - owner did not want to sell directly to me, so I chased it to the auction place).
Before putting it back in, I cleaned everything, inspected everything. I replaced the injector O-rings. I took great care bypassing the cooler. I cleaned/refreshed all grounds/connections.
Added an XP thermostat - if you read the giant threads about these things going into limp-home when you dive into deep snow, believe it - even with the thermostat, it'll go from middle of the gauge to "cold" in about 40 feet. Never goes into limp home, runs great - but I can only imagine what it would be like withOUT a thermostat. Yikes.
Added a Carter low pressure fuel pump, with relay.
New exhaust doughnut
New skis - Pilot DS2s. Lays over easier now.
New 13wide chain.
New hyfax last year
07 FI mapping (the one mentioned in the dootalk threads)
Replaced some control arm bushings - ran out of time, only replaced the BAD ones, have not replaced the rest. Comes with the rest of the new bushings.
Replaced wasted balljoint, left side, lower. That was last spring. Front end is tight.
RAVE valve actuator, belt alignment inspected/set by Skidoo mechanic. Blown exactly 0 belts in the ~800 miles I've owned it.
Clutched for Colorado - 8-12k feet. Drive spring is a bit soft for lower engagement; sled pulls hard, is forgiving in deep snow.
New limiter straps last season.
Quick clickers
Socks on intake air horns - mesh filter socks; is not ingesting belt cord, and when I got the sled, I took the reeds out and cleaned - they were not cruddy at all. Nowhere NEAR the horror-pictures here. Stock airbox. Two foam doughnuts on connector from door to airbox to seal better.
All stock otherwise - stock can, stock handlebars, etc.
DOES NOT HAVE a windshield or stock rear "rack" and taillight assembly. Still has a snowflap, but naked tunnel otherwise. All stickers removed from bodywork.
ALREADY HAS 2014 COLORADO REGISTRATION! Lost my mind and bought an XM. Heh.
It has been a great sled for me; I paid a WHOLE LOT of attention to the 1000 threads in the Dootalk MachZ forum. I left most of it stock, added the LP fuel pump, put filters in the airbox, made sure everything was in order. Starts first pull, IF you pull it hard enough - the 1000 is a big, burly motor to pull over. Runs great, reliable, well taken care of.
I have not crashed it. Previous owner was an older guy, no evidence of crash damage. Straight, normal wear and tear, good example of a burly, powerful sled.
$3700 obo. Please PM with any questions, will have it at the snowmobile expo Oct12/13.
THE "BAD" - FRONT COOLER IS BYPASSED. Gotta get that out of the way first. I bought the sled 2 seasons ago with a cracked front cooler/1000 miles on it. It got totaled, bought it from the auction. I did a LOT of research, decided to bypass the front cooler. It will get warm on hardpack - just like my 13 Skandic, just like my 03 Summit. It has never overheated. The 2005 RT1k has a huge tunnel cooler AND a rear cooler by the snowflap - if anything, it overcools. Several people here and on other forums had bypassed the front cooler after it cracked with no ill effect (and everyone takes the rear cooler off their 06 RT - whose tunnel cooler is half the size). If there's ANY loose snow, it runs at 1/4-1/2 on the gauge. Deep powder, 1/4, all day long.
Also bad - tach refuses to stay zeroed. You can hold the button down and make it do its thing, zero it out, it will somehow wind up about 1000rpm high after a few days. I put a small, aftermarket tach on the dash for clutching, ignore the normal tach. I gave up trying to keep it zeroed. I don't think there's anything wrong with the tach; not sure if the button is sticky or what. All other lights/gauges work.
The good:
2005 RT1000, 162" track
18xx miles
Added a temp gauge out of a MXZX - plugs right in to stock harness.
When I got the sled, the motor was out (a good friend of mine is the mechanic that diagnosed it for the insurance company; once the ins. co totaled it, he called me and it was on - owner did not want to sell directly to me, so I chased it to the auction place).
Before putting it back in, I cleaned everything, inspected everything. I replaced the injector O-rings. I took great care bypassing the cooler. I cleaned/refreshed all grounds/connections.
Added an XP thermostat - if you read the giant threads about these things going into limp-home when you dive into deep snow, believe it - even with the thermostat, it'll go from middle of the gauge to "cold" in about 40 feet. Never goes into limp home, runs great - but I can only imagine what it would be like withOUT a thermostat. Yikes.
Added a Carter low pressure fuel pump, with relay.
New exhaust doughnut
New skis - Pilot DS2s. Lays over easier now.
New 13wide chain.
New hyfax last year
07 FI mapping (the one mentioned in the dootalk threads)
Replaced some control arm bushings - ran out of time, only replaced the BAD ones, have not replaced the rest. Comes with the rest of the new bushings.
Replaced wasted balljoint, left side, lower. That was last spring. Front end is tight.
RAVE valve actuator, belt alignment inspected/set by Skidoo mechanic. Blown exactly 0 belts in the ~800 miles I've owned it.
Clutched for Colorado - 8-12k feet. Drive spring is a bit soft for lower engagement; sled pulls hard, is forgiving in deep snow.
New limiter straps last season.
Quick clickers
Socks on intake air horns - mesh filter socks; is not ingesting belt cord, and when I got the sled, I took the reeds out and cleaned - they were not cruddy at all. Nowhere NEAR the horror-pictures here. Stock airbox. Two foam doughnuts on connector from door to airbox to seal better.
All stock otherwise - stock can, stock handlebars, etc.
DOES NOT HAVE a windshield or stock rear "rack" and taillight assembly. Still has a snowflap, but naked tunnel otherwise. All stickers removed from bodywork.
ALREADY HAS 2014 COLORADO REGISTRATION! Lost my mind and bought an XM. Heh.
It has been a great sled for me; I paid a WHOLE LOT of attention to the 1000 threads in the Dootalk MachZ forum. I left most of it stock, added the LP fuel pump, put filters in the airbox, made sure everything was in order. Starts first pull, IF you pull it hard enough - the 1000 is a big, burly motor to pull over. Runs great, reliable, well taken care of.
I have not crashed it. Previous owner was an older guy, no evidence of crash damage. Straight, normal wear and tear, good example of a burly, powerful sled.
$3700 obo. Please PM with any questions, will have it at the snowmobile expo Oct12/13.
Last edited:
